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hi I'm Chuck Dorset for Weaver leather
craft Supply is that not a beautiful
project or what I can't wait to get
started we're going to take a veg tan
diet we're going to cut through it we're
going to pick a beautiful liner leather
that's going to show through as part of
the decoration set some beautiful clean
quarter-inch nickel spots line 24 snaps
and this project is going to be blast as
always first place we're going to start
let's make our
pattern nice we are set up and ready to
go now couple of things before we get
started we're going to use a 1 and 1/2
inch wide cuff which the the square
works perfectly 1 in 1 and 1/2 inch our
two most common sizes but secondly by
going one and a half uh we don't we're
not going to have to break down into
small fractions but here's another point
we're going to start from scratch we're
not going to look at a sample measure
that and then transfer that over to our
pattern and here's why we're going to
start from scratch because when you take
your design or or the the vision you see
in your mind you're going to know
exactly how to draw this out therefore
you can take this basic pattern and run
with it all right so let's get started
first off we're going to go 1 and 1/2
inch wide so one and A2 inch on my
Square let's just drop in two parallel
lines now on one end what I'm going to
do I can square in fact I'll put it
right there so it's easy to see I'm
going to square across this Top Line
drop in a line easy enough well you know
what while we're here let's do this
let's go ahead and Center that Mark it
3/4 of an inch now 7 and 1/2 in this is
a place that's easy enough to make a
mistake 7 and a half is my snapto snap
distance for my wrist not end to end
we'll build our distance from the seven
and A2 for our end Cuts all right so
let's drop that line in at s and A2
Perfect all right like I said same with
the first let's drop in a 3/4 inch Mark
easy enough now let's connect
those good we have our center line now
let's get our center line from left to
right so 7 and A2 let's drop in three
and 3/4 there's our Center Mark let's go
ahead and circle that now from that
point we're going to drop in spots every
one inch working out so squaring across
that line I'm going to drop in a mark at
seven 8 and nine here five 4 and three
now let's Circle these good pattern
maintenance we're going to Mark these in
red shortly because we Mark and not
punch those holes but let's draw these
in and snap and it wouldn't hurt to put
snap right here just again so we keep
our pattern clean and tight now we're
going to have a lot of lines on this and
it's going to get a little confusing so
we're going to use those marks as our
Center mark on each line all right now
let's draw in our angles we're going to
use simply a template here's the thing
if you don't have a template easy enough
I can take any piece of heavier paper if
I go one in one or two and two or
however big I want to make it let's go
two and two all right there we go now
I'm marked simply split that in half we
can cut that out and we have a template
all right easiest thing though let's
Square across the bottom line of our
paper I'm going to leave a little paper
hanging out so that I can see I'm
parallel but it's a thin line easy
enough now let's drop this in because I
need 45 degree lines leaning right and
then leaning left here's the thing
though this is our pattern I am not by
Nature patient and I rarely tend to take
my time here's where I need to and
here's the thing though we only have to
make one pattern from this pattern we
can make as many projects as we want so
on this tedious but let's take our time
so there we go let's mark that I'm going
to scoot my straight edge across here
Mark
that and the last Now flip my Square so
I could work my template all the way
down now let's flip that because we're
going to go in the other direction and
again let's just start right at that
cross
hatch and the last Mark there clean and
easy everything is looking nice clean
and square now we're going to take this
and we're going to Mark each line eighth
of an inch on either side now that's
going to take a little time but I'm
going to work my way left and then right
I'll flip and mark the other side but
let's do this let's just go ahead and
start so you can get an idea of what
what this is going to look like so
there's an eighth we're going to Mark
again an eighth and this is going to
give us a qu inch band all right let's
jump over
here let's drop in an
eighth and flip that drop in an
eighth easy enough nice clean and
parallel and I'm just eyeballing that
that's more than enough this does not
have to be spot-on accurate as clean as
we can make it is good
but at the same time if that's not
exactly a/ qu in once this is complete
we're the only ones that will see that
so there that's what we're looking for
cross hatch so I'm going to work my way
down and back and we'll have our pattern
all but
ready and coming in with our last line
now like I said we've got a lot of lines
on here but we're going to fill in our
lines our cut lines with a black ink pen
make the whole thing very easy but like
I said we need to be patient with this
if we are we'll be thrilled with the
outcome all right now we need a border
so let's go ahead and drop in a/4 inch
border on this now going to
square nice now let's flip that around
because a quarter inch border now we can
go a little bit thinner but what's
happening here is that because all of
this is very clean and even I'm just
going to have two small Cuts there to
bring in these outside corners all right
so border is in we're ready to go let's
do this I'm going to take a
pen now I'm going to draw in again a
little bit tedious we'll fast forward
though but what I'm going to do is I'm
going to draw in my cut lines with an E
pin therefore it's going to make it very
easy on our eyes to see where we need to
cut therefore we're not going to make
any major
mistakes and my last line very nice well
that pattern looks great so let's go
Ahad head drop in our outside
marks
nice and Other Side Square to that
edge very clean now we're going to add
round ends to these and we're going to
use we're going to visually look at this
when we punch those but let's go ahead
and at least drop
in around in on our pattern so again we
don't make a mistake and now I'm simply
just roughly squaring roughly a 1 and
1/2 in bottle so now we've got our in
marks last thing we're going to do here
let's let's practice some good pattern
maintenance now for my punch holes I'm
going to Mark those in black but for my
marking holes I'm going to Mark those in
Red so that my eye can easily see what
needs to be punched and what needs to be
marked goodlooking pattern now one last
thing before we jump over to cutting
let's look at a couple of samples here
now we've got a 3/4 in Diamond here well
we can bump that up to a larger diamond
we can even go up to a 1in diamond or if
we're using a a saddle bag for my saddle
bag pattern this is a 1 and A4 inch
pattern so you can work this larger for
a larger project but for the cuff we're
keeping this kind of tight and small but
great looking pattern so now let's cut
this
out and let's pop out that last piece
well that just looks spectacular very
cool we're getting there now last thing
we're going to do here let's go ahead
and cut out the main
body and our round ends we're just again
going to eyeball those do not have to be
perfect the tool will make that perfect
for
us very
nice
that is a good looking pattern ready to
go clean and tight now let's trim that a
little bit right there and we are ready
to cut some
leather all right so cutting our leather
first off we're going to use a 4 to 5 O
veg tan for our exterior therefore we
can dye into the color of our choice now
here's here's the thing though here's
what you need to look out for I don't
want to go much over 5 O leather if I
get too heavy when I add my suede my end
result is going to be a 10 to 11 oun
leather and that's just going to be too
thick I want this comfortable on my
wrist now here's another thing though
I've cut my blank ready to go but I've
cut this oversiz here's the reason I
typically do not like to tape my
patterns down to my leather because it
always seems to leave a bit of adhesive
there and that messes with my dye but in
this situation I've overcut my blank
ample room so when I hit that with a
round in punch it's going to knock any
problems right out now what we're going
to do this is going to be tedious but
again as always if we take our time and
we're patient with this the outcome will
be beautiful so I'm going to take my all
I'm going to Mark each of my diamonds
then I'm going to take my craft knife
and I'm going to cut each diamond out
again tedious but the outcome will be
beautiful and our last cut very nice
there we go now is this abs absolutely
perfect no it's not this was not diecut
this is hand cut so every band not the
same exact width of every other band but
it's still very clean now once we get
our backing on this our dye our in
punches and our snaps it's going to look
great you'll see every mistake but no
one else will all right let's go ahead
and drop in with a revolving punch our
snap
holes now pre-mark those straight for my
pattern easy enough
now we're just about ready to die so
let's drop in our rounding
punches now this is a 1 and 1/2 in strap
so we're going to use a 1 and 1/2 in
rounding punch got my snap holes ready
to go I'm going to back out about one
inch now I can certainly Mark that if
I'm not comfortable with eyeballing it
but the one thing I do want to make sure
of is that the wings on each side of
that
tool are even gives us a nice round in
punch so let's come down to this end
about a 1 in out give or
take there we go boy that looks great
doesn't it all right let's work towards
adding some
dye we are set and ready to dye now this
is easy enough this is a small enough
piece where we could certainly use a
Dober but I like to dip dye everything
because this is going to be so
consistent it's going to look like it
was dyed at the Tannery now Pro oil dye
that's what we're dipping with I
wouldn't necessarily suggest going with
an alcohol Dy because my colors are
always going to be dark but we're going
to use a light brown on this we're going
to pick a color for that backing and it
will be beautiful one quick thing though
as always with dying got a plastic bag
down to protect my tabletop and then in
expensive paper on that so my dye
doesn't pull and give me problems so
easy enough small little hook you can
make that out of just about anything
coat hangers are great simply going to
run my cuff through tap it again The
Edge a couple of times set it down and I
am going to walk away because that will
be beautiful once this dries going to
give it about an hour and a half give or
take we're going to work towards an mam
wax which is a great top
coat all right so I've cleaned up our
work area here now we really didn't have
much of a dice spill to begin with but
just to keep this tidy I've changed out
my paper also oil dye extremely easy to
clean out of a plastic bin so I've
replaced my oil die with a leather balm
now this is our top coat or our finish
all I need to do is I'm going to take a
little bit on my rag I'm going to rub it
on the project now I'm going to go a
little sparingly
here rub that on now I'm going to flip
my rag over to a dry portion just a
simple cotton Rag and I'm going to start
to buff now I've got a lot of little
lines here so I don't want to go too
heavy but as I
buff that is going to pick up a
beautiful gloss it's kind of a matte
finish but
nonetheless and it'll take a few minutes
to dry this will lighten a little
bit but that is just beautiful coming
along nicely now let's pick our
backing all right so adding a liner easy
and hard putting the liner on easy our
choices make it hard unbelievable amount
of possibilities here but we're going to
narrow that down just a little bit we're
going to line this with a suede for
three reasons first off suede relatively
inexpensive secondly beautiful vibrant
colors and third that's going to be a
different texture my top grain is smooth
my suede is going to have a sky texture
to it it's going to give that a nice
opposition here's the hard part we've
got 21 beautiful colors in suede alone
I've pulled out five we're going to lay
this on that see which one we like the
best well of course that just pops that
is a beautiful combination blue
that's my all-time favorite a nice
medium brown with a rich blue behind it
the lavender it's just as cute as it can
be forest green almost an old world very
classic look but because this just seems
to pop let's go with a turquoise won't
that be gorgeous but let's since we've
made it this far let's go ahead and drop
in a couple of spots we're going to drop
in nickel spots on our crosshatch let's
take a look and see how that is well
that is absolutely going to pop can't
wait to get this finished all right so
I've got a setup over here to add our
liner relatively easy let's go to that
next nice we are set up and ready to go
suede backing our main body now save a
little time I've dropped in an inkline
on our suede we're going to trim that
off that's no issue and and suede is
always tough to mark But strangely
enough this is the easiest part of it
now glue wise I love the leathercraft
cement a great glue gives you a good
Bond but it's water-based now with a
cuff we may deal with sweat we may deal
with rain and I don't want my glue
giving out so we're going to go with a
contact cement here's a problem though
we're going to need the contact cement
on both pieces easy enough with the
suede I'm simply going to run my finger
across that let's drop that into our ink
line press the suede
down and there's our pattern easy enough
right all right on our main body on our
outside band I want glue right to the
edge on these crossbands I just need a
little glue in the center just enough to
adhere on my backing I want to bring
that glue over my ink line that way I
can see all the way around that I've got
a good Edge on the crossbands same as
here I just need a little in the middle
all right so let's drop in some contact
cement with an old paintbrush because
whatever we use here is going to have to
go in the trash I I can wrap that in
cellophane but it won't last long so I
find the worst paintbrush in my
paintbrush jar and we'll simply use that
to apply our contact
cement nice so we've given that about 10
minutes to dry looks like a mess but
it's not going to here shortly let's
take our our main body we're going to
lay that right into our Blue
Line press that down looks great glue
only where we want it now here's a
little bit of a trick if you do get a
little glue in here with suede you can
take your craft knife and scrape that
out that will go unnoticed but also too
you'll notice we're going to add our
Hardware our spots after we put in our
lining there's two reasons for this
first off if I ever have to replace a
spot or a piece of Hardware I'm not
going to have to dig the tines out of
the liner I can simply drop it out but
secondly like say with a laptop or a
brief case with my straps I can reverse
those straps for someone that wants to
carry that on the other side so our
Hardware typically for me is going to go
in last all right looks great let's
trim all right trimming our Edge easy
enough now I've pressed this down so
I've got a good glue along the edge
typically I would take my knife and use
the body as my straight edge as long as
I keep my blade angle good and low I'll
get a nice clean cut but if you're not
comfortable with that let's simply drop
in a straight edge and trim both
sides
and our last cut there we go
now Perfect Look at that that looks like
it was diecut and we do not have a
single air pocket now let's step over
here and do our round and
punch now again one and a half we've
already made the punch on our main body
so what's going to happen is this is
just going to sit down clean and easy
now we'll trim that
off but look at that nice round clean in
punch
again that looks just like it was diecut
beautiful all right let's trim this last
little piece
off good and last thing let's go ahead
and rep punch our snap holes because we
need to punch through that
suede now we need to set a snap we're a
little too thick for a line 20 so let's
bump up to a line 24 because we're at
about a 7 o give or take so let's set a
line 24
snap this is a simple durable snap to
set easy enough now I'm going to take
take the post with a cap on it and I'm
going to come through from the front now
with some exceptions though your cap is
always going to face the front or the
face of the leather now I've got an
anvil here four different sizes but I'm
going to drop that on a little leather
just so I don't ding my marble now let's
drop in this if I get the two female
flanges rever reversed it's not going to
be a big issue but this is the standard
way to set this simply drop that post
in two good shots very clean now I want
to set that just hard enough to where
it's not going to spin I don't want to
hit it too hard now let's jump over here
with this piece now for a cuff we're
going to come in from the back because
this if if we're setting a
keychain then what we're going to do
is we'll have to set him from the front
so it will come together like this but
right now we want that to circle around
so post up second female piece we're
going to drop that in but I'm going to
drop this flat on my marble because I
want that
flush so drop in the other piece set our
Setter
in two good shots clean and you can see
that post has rolled down in there
nicely so Snaps are set and one last
step here we are going to set some spots
but isn't that beautiful looking
great all right so our last touch to
this beautiful cuff we're going to set
spots now we've got a machine called The
Little Wonder we not only sell it we
make it in house but here's the thing
with a little wonder it is going to set
a number of things straight each time
every time very clean very easy but for
us Crafters we may not be setting a lot
of lot of spots or grommets or eyelids
so this is a great tool simply a spot
Setter now this is designated per size
this is a quarter inch but what I'm
going to do is notice I can load a spot
into this
sleeve press that down to where it's
flush my tin are flush I'm going to drop
the concaved end of this tool right up
against the spot and set that now notice
yeah it sticks and well that's our
second trick but notice very clean very
flush so I can simply Bend this over or
turn this over drop him in from the
other side and there we go set my tines
clean and tight great tool but here's
the problem we're going to be hitting a
very thin line here and that's going to
be tough to line that up everything on
this is very symmetrical if my my spots
are squirly across here it's going to
stick out like a sore thumb so what I
need to do literally is set these spots
by hand lot of control here
five steps easy enough but you'll see
where I'm going with each step and they
all make sense now first thing I need to
mark my leather so I'm going to take one
of my spots and I'm simply going to
press the tines in where I want it now I
don't know if the camera's going to pick
that up but here's the easiest thing got
my two time marks this is simply a
pallet of cardboard therefore I can take
my craft knife and I can run through my
leather into my cardboard and it's not
going to ding my point
so I can see my two spots my two times
I'm going to press my craft knife in
clean and easy now let's drop our spot
in we can see it and hold on to it these
little spots are tough there we go going
to press that through now don't really
need to worry about pushing it through
flush it's going to be a little tough on
my fingers but on this pad simply going
to tap it beautiful very clean now flip
this over with the end of my craft knife
I've got my two tin sticking out I'm
simply going to bend those
in and the last thing and this is most
important I'm going to take this I'm
going to put it on something hard right
here my marble slab going to take this
put it on my on my spot and just give it
a good pop what I've done is now I can
feel those two times have actually sunk
in they're very flat very flush and
they're not going to snag on anything so
I'm going to drop in a spot at each
intersection and we will be done with
this beautiful
cuff nice set that last spot and that is
gorgeous did that not come out nicely is
it absolutely perfect no I've got a thin
line here here and here but who's going
to see that other than me here's a great
thing we've set these spots by hand and
I mentioned we have great control with
that let's look down that line of spots
could that not be cleaner well that's a
great project and that is just
gorgeous and a lot of fun too with a
beautiful outcome here's a great part
about this that cross-hatch design one
of an unlimited amount of cutout
possibilities just one color in D one
color in Hardware one type of backing
leather sky is a limit time to get
creative I hope you make some beautiful
cuffs good luck with your
projects
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