 Here grows Wisteria, the Ludwig Lavin cultivar. A couple of months ago, it was given this winter protection. As the plant is large, we covered the base with straw and added a layer of bark mulch. Now we're going to remove both bark and straw and to show how the springtime complementary pruning is performed. In the case of the Wisteria, the main thinning pruning is carried out in the second half of July, all at the beginning of August. We then cut back the new growth down to the fourth bud to encourage the setting of flower buds in autumn. By now these buds have set nicely and we only apply corrective pruning to remove those shoots that have died back or are too thin. We cut down to the second bud. This will result in longer, more impressive flower heads. Now we're going to lift the straw cover. It can be reused the following year. Such a straw mat can last for four to five years. We removed the mulch, leaving a 5 to 7 cm layer for soil humidity control and weed prevention. It's important to use really sharp pruning shears to achieve a clean cut. The less cells get squashed in the process, the more chance the wound will heal and the prune shoot won't die back later, potentially becoming a source of disease. We cut back all the spindly shoots growing from the base. Unless it is our intention to revitalize a plant that has been damaged or frozen. Otherwise, they'll only thicken up the plant. They're least shading those on the flower-bearing shoots. We can see here that some of them are flower buds. We're going to cut down to the second bud. I make a cut not very close about 0.5 cm away. The edge is slightly angled with the top point out reaching the bud. Why do we do it? To prevent water from falling. We're going to cut down to the second bud. We're going to cut down to the second bud. To prevent water flowing towards the bud. Here it's better to leave some more wood. Because even if the tip of the shoot dies back, the bud will survive. Do not prune too close to the bud in case you damage it. If the shoots are dead, cut them back completely to avoid any snake. This is how we proceed. This is how we proceed. Hard pruning of wisteria encourages flowering. Usually I leave a couple of side shoots at the base. They may be useful in future when the plant needs rejuvenating. When buying wisteria, it's important to choose vegetatively propagated plants. Only these will bloom a couple of years after planting. Sometimes as soon as in the second year. This applies to such cultivars as prolific and domino. If you buy a seedling, you'll never know what the flowers will look like. They can be sparse. Besides, we can expect the first bloom in the 10th, 12th or 14th year after planting. Shops often offer grafted wisteria. They're not suited for a cold climate, as the sion grows on a seedling rootstock. In colder parts of Europe, frosts occur that freeze the plant even to the ground level. A plant propagated by mucotix has the root of the cultivar, therefore, will regrow from the base, and in two to three years will be as beautiful as before. If a grafted plant dies back, only its stock regrow. Besides, the stock grows basal shoots and suckers. When new shoots appear at the base, we don't know whether they belong to the stock or to the sion. We don't know whether they belong to the stock or to the skin. In a plant propagated by cuttings, all new shoots are of the same origin. It's worth some consideration. It can seem a trifle, but it can decide whether we have a beautiful wisteria or an overgrown specimen that blooms sparsely or not at all, seemingly for no reason. Most of the flower buds set at the top. I'm going to climb up and show you how to prune. Here, we have flowering shoots and some vegetative ones. We don't want them to expand too much and shade each other, so I prune them down to the second bud. I remove all the dead shoots too. After the pruning, the wound remained. It's good to treat them with a fungi side paste, especially the thicker shoots. An emulsion paint can be applied, but most of the gardening shops offer fungi sides. They prevent pathogen infection and further die back allowing the plant to regenerate more efficiently. You'll need to see in a minute a correctly pruned plant, which I hope will bloom beautifully in six weeks.