 Hello again everyone. Some time ago I purchased a vintage toy from eBay like this one. This is a Gin One Transformers jet fire, which is made from the mold of the Mt. Cross Valkyrie. When it arrived I found it was yellowed. Something common from a white plastic toy is made in the 80s. Not wanting a yellow jet fire. I did some quick research online for a fix and found retro bright. A free solution to the yellowing problem that used over the counter products. I gave it a try and it did a reasonably good job. However I personally found it to be cumbersome and extremely time consuming to use. It consisted of making a paste with this primary ingredient being hydrogen peroxide. You would then cover the part you wish to remove the yellowing from and then set the part outside in the sunlight under a UV lamp. I decided to put some effort into coming up with a faster way of removing the yellow and after a couple of months of messing with it off and on I finally had success. I made a video of this success and send it off to some friends to see if there was any way to capitalize on it. You're watching that video now. They then took the video and placed it on their YouTube channel to see what interest it would drum up. You definitely got noticed but mostly from people claiming the video was faked. After speaking to the lawyers, pat and attorneys and other business savvy people, it was decided that while it worked great, turning it into a consumer product was probably not my best interest more on that later. I have since moved on to other projects and don't want to let the idea just die so I decided to just give the procedure away in this video in hopes that others can use it. Okay let's get started. The first thing we'll need is some yellowed plastic. I have several samples for this video. The first will be some parts from the jet fire toy you saw earlier. We will do one of the wings which are quite yellowed and they also have the red painted stripe to show how it treats paint. We also do one of the plastic parts of the legs. These have stickers on them that block the UV light from hitting the plastic in some areas. We'll give a good indicator of how well it works. Next we'll do a hatch door from a vintage USS flag at GI Joe Toy. Then for fun we'll do some yellow newspaper that I moved to strip from and last a vintage yellowed and tindo entertainment system. Now let's make up our solution. You'll need a beaker or glass vessel your parts can fit in and be fully submerged without spilling. You'll then need to fill the beaker with either ethanol or methanol above the parts. Either alcohol will work but methanol works better and it's much cheaper but is more dangerous as it can blind and kill you if consumed or absorbed through your skin. I'm using methanol in this video. Next you'll need to add one to two drops of concentrated sulfuric acid. This step is optional but you get more bang for your buck if it's there. Now you need to set up a gas generator and bubble chlorine gas through the alcohol. This step should only be done in a fume hood or outside. A fume hood is preferred. Since non-chemists may be watching this video and may be asking themselves how do you generate chlorine. If you are one of these people then you should not be performing this experiment. You should go without saying chlorine gas can kill you. This procedure should only be performed by a knowledgeable chemist. The chlorine gas will go into solution and start to turn the methanol yellow. The sulfuric acid I put in causes the methanol to take up more chlorine than it would by itself. Once the solution turns yellow you are done. The solution is now ready to take plastic parts. I should note that it has a limited lifespan of a couple days before it becomes ineffective. Now that the solution is ready we can place in our first part, one of the wings. All you need to do is drop the part into the solution. You can then pull the part out as often as you like to check on this progress. I have done a bunch of these jet fire parts so I know that they need to stay in for roughly about 15 minutes. Once the part is as wide as you like you can then simply pull it out and dunk it in water. Now we can compare the treated wing with the other untreated wing. As you can see the treated wing has no hint of yellow in it. Also the red paint is not affected at all. This is not always the case but most of the time painted parts don't seem to react with fade. Now I am going to place one of the plastic leg parts in the solution and let it set for 15 minutes. During the treated and untreated you can see the effect is the same as the wing. You can see where the sticker protected the untreated part on the right in some places and that the treated part is completely back to white and no longer shows where the sticker once was. Most of the stickers were unaffected except for the red one that fell off in solution. I found that some stickers come out fine while others come off in solution. There is really no way to tell. Next I thought I would show paper. This is an old newspaper that is severely yellowed. I cut out a long strip and then place a strip in the solution. I let it sit there for about 10 minutes and then pulled it out and allowed it to fully dry. On comparing you can see the difference. The solution works great on paper due to the fact that methanol unlike water doesn't destroy the fibers. Leaving the paper in overnight might have gotten the remainder of the yellow out. I've read a side nut to do this given that there are other methods to remove yellow from paper. Next up is the hatched door on the left. I chose this door to show that the solution really is removing the yellow and not just turning the plastic white. Since plastic in these doors is gray we should notice the color change if it occurred. As before I just dropped the part in. This time I leave the part in for 3 hours. When I pulled the part out and compare it with a perfectly good part they match up. For my last demonstration I'll remove the yellow from a vintage Nintendo entertainment system. I bought this broken one for me Bay. They were selling it for parts but I bought it because it was really yellowed. After I could do a part you can see just how yellow it is. The parts that were covered have no noticeable yellowing so this Nintendo system seems to only have UV damage. I know this is a sacrilege but I did not want to make up enough solution to do the whole Nintendo. So I used my bandsaw to cut out a chunk so that it would fit into the beaker. Please forgive me for my laziness. The Nintendo is a bit different than the previous parts we've done. The solution works extremely fast so you need to remove and check the plastic about every 2 minutes. If left in too long the plastic will start to fade. If left in overnight the plastic can become brittle and shatter like glass if dropped. Which is neat to watch but not necessarily desirable in a gaming system. You need to stop dipping it right at the point right before you think it's done. This is because the plastic is wet and on drawing it will take on a very slightly lighter color. Also possible I find that submerging the whole part at once works much better than rotating it. Another tip, Nintendo's that are slightly yellow are much easier to do than those that are extremely yellow like the one I'm doing now. If you find that you dipped the part in and in a few minutes it turns completely white then your Nintendo has heat damage. Best to break out a can of spray paint. Here's the final product. Sorry I didn't do more but you get the idea. If there's enough interest I might do another video and do the whole top or at least half of it. If you're interested in doing a super Nintendo the procedure is exactly the same. Okay, a couple of final notes. If you're a huge fan of retrovite please note that I'm not trying to replace it. I'm only trying to add to the body of knowledge to help fix a problem annoying many people. Please keep this in mind before you start sending me your hate mail. It's probably apparent now why this really can't be a consumer product or at least this is what my lawyers keep telling me. If you're interested in getting some part white in but all this chemistry is over your head then feel free to message me and we can see what options are available. Also if you have any questions leave them in the comment section below and I'll do my best to answer them. Hope this has been useful to some of you and until next time thanks for watching.