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hi I'm Andrew Barry and welcome to at
the bench we're carrying on with our
series on soldering I've shown you what
equipment you need I showed you how
soldering techniques and the the
conditions that solder loves to be able
to solder perfectly and the most
simplest type of piece of jewelry to
make up once you've learned how to
solder is a simple band a simple wedding
band it could be a stacker ring band and
we're going to be making up a very
simple
dsection band I say band like a ring
plain ring any type of section metal
will do it can be round section it can
be square section it can be rectang
angular section it can be dsection and
what do we mean by
dsection the part traditionally the goes
against the finger is flat and the
outside of the section metal is rounded
so it's a profile like a letter
D simple and this can be obtained in all
different types of widths and
thicknesses from your bullan dealer
today we've got a nice wide piece here
this piece is 6 mm in width the depth is
2 mm and the length is really longer
than what I need this is a piece that's
nearly 13 cm way longer than what I need
and I would always advise you when you
buy your
metal buy it longer than what you
actually need so say you wanted a length
of metal that was 65 millim in length
you'll notice that when the bullan
dealers cut the ends they cut them with
a shearers or pliers so the last
millimet 2 mm you can't use because
that's where the ends are being squashed
I think this end of be is been cut
because I think I've used this
previously so you always have to allow
an extra couple of millimeters for the
bulling dealers chopping off the strip
also when it comes to making up the band
it again it always play always pays to
have that couple of extra millimeters
again it just makes life easier it makes
your finished item a lot more
professional and I'll come to that in a
minute and I'll show you exactly why you
can make up the ring to a specific size
there are lots of charts and tables out
on the internet here at at the bench our
online training website we have a
resources table
I'll put the link Down Below in the
description where you can
download our resources ring blank sizes
table you may have to be a free view
member doesn't cost anything to join all
we need is a name and an email address
and you get access to the freev view
section of out of the bench and you got
access to all our resources ideal print
it out laminate it keep it by your bench
that's atthe bench.com
from that and I'll use this as an
example I just said that our silver was
2 mm in
thickness this is the UK United Kingdom
version because we measure our finger
sizes in letters letters of the
alphabet in other parts of the world in
the US of a you use numbers and there's
lots of other countries that use their
own systems I think we've got um an
international chart on at the bench as
well but using this particular chart
here along the top here we've got the
thickness of the metal that you're using
in our case 2 mm have to excuse the dirt
on
my table here so there's 2 mm here so
down this column is where we need to
look and then if you are making the ring
to a specific finger size well then the
finger sizes are down the left hand side
here and the moment the table runs from
F to Z Plus six so say I want to make a
ring in the size of say a size R we come
along to an from an r or come across to
the 2 mm column and the length that we
need to make our ring blank is
65.4 mm I wouldn't worry too much about
the 04 of a millimeter I would always ER
on the fractions smaller knowing that
you can tap the ring slightly
larger upon your ring mandrel it's
easier to do that than make it too big
and then if you don't have the tools to
do it to reduce it you'd actually have
to cut the ring take a piece out
resolder it and try it over again so I'm
going to make the the ring 65 mm the
length of 65 mm if I was ordering that
from a bullan dealer I on I would add on
excuse me about 2 mm on either side for
chopping It Off off plus I'd add on
another 2 or 3 mm each side as well it's
going to make life a lot easier when we
come to bend the ring round and again
I'll show you that in a minute so 65 mm
I need if I'm ordering it for a bullan
dealers I'd order 65 so I'd order that's
close to 70 I would order roughly around
about 76 78 mm in length and I know
we're going to have pieces that we're
going to be cutting off but we save them
none of it gets wasted and we can save
them and we we can melt that down to
make some balls some embellishments we
can melt it quite a bit down to make an
Ingot and we can do so much more with
that little scrap silver so it's never
ever wasted you never throw it
away so let's have a look at this bit of
silver 65 mm let's get my scribe and
using the equipment that I showed you at
the first film of this soldrin series
and again if you haven't seen that I'll
put the link down below and you can go
and visit the two previous films showing
you the equipment we need and how to
soer 65 mm so we would never measure
from the ends okay because that is where
the bullying company has cut blah blah
blah and so forth and I would also come
in a little bit so in this bit of silver
here I'm going to come in roughly round
about 5 mm from the end I will simply
put a mark going across my silver
65.4 my chart said I'm going to do it to
65 mm so here's 6 1 2 3 4 5 65 is there
you can see my piece of silver is much
much longer than what I actually need so
if this was yours yours would be
approximately that sort of length about
70 75 millim if you were making this to
a size R but you would make this to
whatever size you want and then add on
that little bit extra on either end
right this is something that I have
learned over the past 30 years you do
not cut the silver just yet it is so
tempting to come along to cut across
there to cut across there but we have
been so accurate measuring this out the
last thing that you want to do is to cut
here cut there and then start filing the
ends because the these ends are going to
have to be parallel with each other if
we cut this one like that and cut this
one this way completely wonky we have to
file the ends and as soon as you start
to file the ends of your silver you're
making the silver shorter and by making
the silver shorter you're altering the
finger size you're altering the ring
size of what you originally measured so
don't cut just yet and this is where I
was saying about having that little bit
extra on either end it helps you with
the next task get a pair
of pliers these pliers have a nice
rounded jaw the bottom jaw is rounded
the top jaw here is flat
okay so these are half round
pliers here's our first Mark that we put
on here we allowed the couple of
millimeters from the end for the bullan
dealers cut cut we added the extra on so
here's my Mark here now now what I like
to see is where the ends of the Ring
come up I don't like to see people
soldering the ring straight like that
all right very hard for you to see I
know I like to see the ring Bend IN so
it curves round so when you come to tap
the ring round you don't put stress on
the joint if you have and have the metal
coming along straight and you solder it
you got to bend
the ring round and you put an
unnecessary stress and strain on that
joint you have the ring coming around so
the ends are coming around nicly curved
like this and you shoulder the ring is
virtually round you're putting less
stress on the ring I'll show you now so
by having that little bit extra on the
end here we can ensure that this part of
the ring that actually need is going to
be nice the ends are going to come
around and it's going to be lovely and
curved let me just quickly demonstrate
what I mean so flat goes against the
finger in this case that is where the
rounded jaw is like
that we hold on to the end we push this
around and what you're going to see is
that here's our line here you can see
now where the curve the curve is
carrying on to where the line is come to
the end and you can see how the end is
straight so what I will be doing is
cutting off here here and you can see
we've got the lovely curve leading up to
the join what you don't want is to have
a flat section by here so that's our
Mark there we are going to just simply
turn this
around and here is our second Mark just
over here and again I want to make sure
that when I turn the ring around and I'm
moving the ring around couple of
millimeters move it couple of
millimeters move it and I'm making sure
that we get a nice curve all the way
around
I could make that a little bit
tighter and where our Mark is by
here I want to curve the metal further
so I don't want to come along and have
from the line straight the metal has to
curve so we've got the first Mark here
where it's nicely curved our second Mark
is here where it's nicely curved right
here's another little trick for you and
again this is some tricks that I have
learned over my 30 years of making
jewelry we have to make sure as I just
said 2 3 minutes ago that the ends of
these wires have to be parallel they
need to come together absolutely
parallel there's not much point one
being wonky and then we've got to file
this flat so they come together because
you're altering the finger size what we
need to do is to keep the metal on the
Peg and keep it in this position keep it
flat so this one side is flat on the peg
I will come along and I will cut through
my first original Mark here then I will
keep the
metal and I will cut on here so if the
first cut and I'll use
my ruler as a guide here to show you if
my first cut comes along and it's
completely wonky I could say the word
wonky and it's not straight it's at that
angle and then I come along and cut the
next
Edge or my next Mark sorry at that funny
angle I know that those sides as angled
as they're going to be are going to come
together parallel if I cut this one at
this angle and then turn the ring over
and cut this one at this angle well then
my sides are not going to come together
they're going to be touching and I need
to have the joint nice and tight all the
way
along but I'll show you not it it you
may not understand what I mean but let
me just quickly show you
so let's just transfer my mark to the
top of the ring so I can see there and
likewise with this one there it is
there okay so I'm cutting I'm cutting as
straight as I possibly can everyone has
their own natural cut and I'm soaring as
vertical as I can and I'm cutting
towards the center of the Ring all the
time number point cut in like this
cutting away I'm always trying to cut it
90° to the
surface okay gentle movements up and
down cutting
towards cutting towards the
ring that little piece we will keep and
we will reuse so I'm keeping the metal
I'm keeping the ring on my peg just
simply turning it around now to where my
next Mark is and again from there use my
thumb as a guide cut through and again
I'm aiming towards the center of the
Ring all the
time okay there we go and again
obviously that piece I'm going to keep
soaring always kicks up a little bit of
a bur that you need to get rid
of you can just file that
off I'm not filing the face I just want
to file off that bit of bur so those are
my two cuts you can see how it's curved
right where I've cut it and you can see
how it's curved here right where I've
cut it now I can bend this ring bit
further around
now and when I bring that together you
will see that the faces of the Ring are
going to come together absolutely
perfectly all right so we're getting
near you can see how parallel they
are
nearer nearer
nearer nearer nearer
and when we come to bring them face to
face you will
see I know I've got a bit of a step here
but I'm just going to sort that out but
you can see how parallel those lines the
ends are I don't have to worry about
having to file the ends as soon as you
start to file it you're making the ring
smaller which is not what you want to do
I haven't wasted any more metal by doing
what I'm doing
here a much easier more accurate quicker
ring I will guarantee and I will promise
you so we need to make sure that the
sides of this ring are completely
straight and we need to make sure that
the faces of this ring come together
flush all the way from front to back
so this is quite a thick piece of silver
if you haven't got strong hands you may
have a few problems trying to maneuver
it into
shape I'm just simply pushing pulling
the ring so that is the most perfect
perfect solder joint the solder is going
to love that joint it's perfect it's
exactly what we're after if you want to
make sure that you you have no uh burs
in between get a piece of Emory paper
pass it in between and move the Emy
paper in between the joint just to make
sure it really is completely completely
flush use the same piece of paper just
clean up the outside as well because
again that solder will only flow on
Silver that
has the cleanest surface this in the
inside I'm just going to use a needle
file like that there so that is the most
perfect joint ready to be
soldered I'm using my
flux and I'm making sure
that I put the flux from the inside and
also on the outside because the
capillary action will take that flux
into that joint some people will open up
the ring they'll put a bit of solder in
between the joint and then use the
tension of the Ring to hold it back I
don't like to do that I like to keep
that ring I keep like to keep the joint
closed all the time and that's looking
really really good we're going to be
using some hard solder on this
hard solder means solder that melts at
quite a high temperature it's always
nice to get into the hang of things of
using hard solder for your first
soldering joint I've got a small little
piece of solder it may look tiny tiny
tiny to you that's the size I've got
there it does look very small but the
solder only has to flow between the face
of each piece of silver it only has to
go between the the join itself there may
be some excess that will just flow onto
the outside but the more solder that
gets flowed gets flowed that's what your
word on the outside of the ring the more
you've got to file off and that to me is
a complete waste I'm using the little
propane torch sorry the butane torch
that I've got here this is quite a thick
ring so it's going to take a little
while to warm this up I'm going to put
the flame towards the back of the Ring
that's the front of the ring for
you and that's going to warm up the
ring and by doing that what is happening
is the water is
evaporating from the flux that we put
into this area here what I'm just
quickly going to do is put a little bit
of flux on that piece of solder that
I've got by there as well that'll help
the shoulder melt a lot lot
easier the water is
evaporating from our flux that we've got
here you can see the color of the flux
okay the flux is a good indication of
knowing when the silver is going to be
the right temperature for our solder to
melt don't put the solder on just yet
the solder is going to overheat you can
overheat solder and it will lose its
flowing properties so I've up the front
so the back of the Ring here I've got my
solder you can see the color of the flux
the flux has kept the area that I want
to solder nice and clean looks Brown to
you but tell you now that is gorgeous
and clean underneath that bit of flux
here's my bit of solder just pop it up
onto the top you don't want to put the
flame on the solder directly we're
relying on the heat of the silver
to melt that
solder so bring the flame now to the
front of the Ring put it on either side
the solder will flow towards the hottest
part of the ring so you have to make
sure the both sides of the Ring are the
same temperature the solder just started
to Bull up a little bit then so I know
we're very close look at the flux any
second now this solder is going to flow
and the solder is going to flow there we
go exactly where we want it it's flowing
down the center where we have put that
flux you can see what happens the salt
starts to flow it becomes jellylike
people will stop at that and think it's
flowed or hasn't flowed far enough the
solder will flow a little bit further if
you keep the heat onto it I brought this
the flame to the inside of the Ring now
because I want to make sure the solder
gets pulled through to the inside of the
Ring here and you can see we've got that
lovely seam solder coming through on the
inside it's gone from front to back top
to bottom and that is the most gorgeous
gorgeous solder
joint it may look dirty it may look
scuzzy to you but but that is the actual
flux that is made that bit of coloring
around
here the ring has got some oxides on it
we need to put that into some acid and
in our next film I will then show you
how to clean the ring up and to polish
it to bring it
up nice and shiny so I'm going to put it
in my safety pickle now don't put it in
the pickle straight away a lot of people
will wait for it to cool down then put
it in the warm acid I always put the
ring into the warm acid when the ring is
warm warm I find it cleans the ring
quicker you don't want to put the ring
straight into the acid as soon as you've
soled
it because the sudden shock of the metal
cooling is going to fracture The Joint
it's going to fracture this the the
solder joint and when you start to tap
the ring round it will split it's not
what we're after so you don't need to
wait this length of time before we put
into the acid I'm just talking to you
but literally wait about 10 seconds 15
seconds let the Ring cool down to what
we call a black heat that is um a a look
of the Ring where there's no color
change to it there's no redness to it
the redness has gone completely and
we're to a black Heat this is way past
it now this is quite a cool ring now but
we would put it into the acid within
about 10 seconds of soldering it
leave it in there until the ring comes
up nice and white the safety pickle will
also get rid of the flux as well the
excess flux as you can see that's what
all the brown bits are on the front of
the Ring there this area is nice and
white nice and clear nice and shiny
because that is where our flux was the
rest of the ring as you can see is
oxidized because there was no flux on it
but the area where the flux was is kept
the silver clean it kept it just right
for that solder to flow I'm going to pop
that into the acid now wait a few
minutes to get that nice bright and
white and then I'll show you then how to
clean up the ring tap it round and
polish it
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