 Hi everyone, I've built a new wardrobe for my bedroom out of my lemon and it turned out great. I'll very pleased with the final result so if you want to build something similar for very cheap then stick around. The space I'm building the wardrobe for had a lot of limitation that I had to work around. So for better planning I made a model of it in schedule. You can find the file in the video description but don't expect much as this was made to help me identify all the right dimensions for the pieces I need. If you want to build something for yourself feel free to customize it. My one is difficult to cut at home even if you have a table saw. I don't own one so I had all of the boards pre-cut at the store. I've started by organizing all of the boards precise in my hallway and then proceeded to apply the edge trim. At my store there was the option for them to apply the edge trim on the mallow me, but it's always cheaper to do it at home. Or any piece that will not have a lot of day to day usage applying it at home is good enough. First cut a piece that is slightly longer than the edge that you want to cover and place it on top of it. I was placing a paper towel on top of that to protect the plastic a bit from the old iron ahead but if the bottom of your iron is clean then you can skip this. The trick is to apply the heat evenly along the entire length of the edge with some pressure so the glue that is pre-applied on the edge bending can melt and penetrate the open edge of the mallow me. Once the bending is applied leave it for a few minutes so it can cool down and use a cutting knife to remove the excess. To trim the excess bending there is a special tool that you can buy but I don't have one so cutting knife work perfectly. Just make sure to keep it close and parallel with the edge you are working on. The entire wardrobe is held in place with 3.5x50mm screws. I've drilled all the pieces that receive a screw with a 3mm drill bit to prevent any cracking along the edge. There is no need to make countersink as the milling is quite soft and the screw can pull in the perfect form to sit flush with the face of the board. So assembly make sure to use a flat surface to work on and there is no need of some fancy clamps to hold the pieces. If you have someone to help you then it will be a lot easier but I managed to build it mostly on my own. Align the edges of the board and pre-fit the screws in the drill hold by hand to make it easier to start them. Drive them with the full force until they are either flat with the surface or slightly below. My element is always cut at perfect time to degrees from the store so as long as you edges align you don't need to worry for a squareness as the screws will pull the pieces together. For the larger piece I laid them on my tile floor and fitted the same process for the screwing as before to complete all of the boxes. When attaching a divider board you will need to use a square to make sure that it is placed correctly. The backing of all of the boxes and the bottoms of the drawers are made out of 3mm fiber that is easy to attach with 3.5x16mm screws. Start by placing the box on its face on the floor and place the fiber board on top. Align the corners of the box with the fiber board and add the screw first to the corners and then on about every 20-25-10mm. I used more screws on drawers as they will have more strain than the backs. You can also use some red nails to attach the fiber board but using the screws allows you to more easily take it apart if needed in future. I wanted to be able to easily move the wardrobe for cleaning so I attached ceiling and coasters on the bottom instead of standing legs. For me this works since my bedroom floor is very flat and covered in wood laminate flarring. If you have carpets then you can attach some legs on the bottom. The procedure will be more or less the same. Wherever I could I used screws to hold all of the divider boards and for the rest of the shelves I used some packs to support them. To mount the drawers I used the Lascopic slides that I first attached to a holding box on the set drawer height. They are held in place with 2 screws and I made sure that they are all parallel to the bottom. This way all of the shelves will be parallel to each other. The other part of the slide is attached at 5mm from the bottom of the drawer with 2 screws also making sure that it is parallel with the bottom fiber board piece. To put it in place align the 2 slides and use some force. Once all of the slides are closed and in place and aligned properly they should open and close easily. When I finish the boxes for all of the wardrobe elements I've placed them on their final place so I can install the additional shelves, clothing hardware and doors. To mount the shelves I marked the location for the mounting packs and with a drill bit with a depth top I made the holes. After adding the packs the shelf just lights on top of the packs and it's fully supported on both sides with a total of 4 mounting packs. The hinges for the door have a built in pneumatic cylinder that allows for a so-called soft close feature. They require a hole in the milling to be drilled with a drill press but since I don't have one I had them made at the store. To align them straight I've used another door piece to push on all of the hinges at the same time so they can be in one straight line. To hold the hinges I've used 2 of the 16mm screws. When mounting the doors it's best to have someone to help you to align the bottom edge. It needs to be flush with the bottom edge of the box and parallel to the outside piece of the box you're attaching it to. I've added 2 screws to each of the hinges and then aligned both the doors straight with the alignment screws on the hinges. To make the holes for the drawer handles I measured one of the handles and transferred the same dimension to one of the drawer faces. I've drilled the piece and after confirming that it matched the handle I've used it as a template to drill all of the others. To attach them I first align it with some spacers to the drawer as box and use temporary screws from the front through the handle holes. Once the piece was in place I've put 2-3mm long screws from the inside of the drawer to secure it. After I mounted all of the faces I removed all of the temporary screws and drilled through the back piece. After that I mounted the handles with the appropriate screws. For the doors I've made the drilling template out of cardboard and with some clamps I hold it in place on the edge of the door. Again the handles were attached with the appropriate screws from inside. As a final step since the water was looking plain we added some silicone all decorated stickers at the decoration. We went with the flower scene for now but since they are easily removed we can change them to give the water up a whole new look after a while. All in all I've built the entire wardrobe in the course of 5 days working only in the afternoons after I came back from work. The most difficult part of the entire thing is the planning so I'm sure that anyone with some basic making skills can make this or similar piece of furniture. Let me know down in the comments your thoughts of the build. I'll be glad to help you out if you want to know something more about it. Also make sure to subscribe if you liked the video and give it a thumbs up. Cheers!