 I really hate drywall. Alright, so if you've been following along, we're ready to drywall. We got insulation in, we got the spray foam in, we did the drylock on the floors, and all the walls behind the insulation. The insulation, the insulated board there, everything is sealed up and ready to go and we're ready to put our drywall on. So I'm just using standard half inch drywall. I've used some scrap pieces that I've had laying around. I put some on already. This was a piece that I had left over from the training room renovation, so I used that in here. So I'm just kind of piecing together what I have. I bought some new drywall here, I'm ready to go. And so I'll take you as long for the process of how I am doing the drywall here. So a lot of times when I do these projects, people ask why I don't even go into further detail about the drywall. But to be honest with you, drywall is one of the things I just dislike and I'm not very good at it. So for all you pro drywallers out, I always give this disclaimer. You can go ahead and give me tips if you want, that's fine. But this is probably not going to look like a pro job. It just is the way it is. But I will take you guys through with the methods that I've used and what I've learned from the Lumbert experience I've had. I've drywalled a few rooms over the years and done different projects like that where I've had to drywall. It's turned out pretty decent. I've had pretty good luck with what I've done. But it's definitely not professional level. So I will give that disclaimer and before we move forward here. So I will take you guys through the next one. I will take you guys through the next one. I will take you guys through the next one. I will take you guys through the next one. I will take you guys through the next one. I will take you guys through the next one. I will take you guys through the next one. So easy as we did to cut drywall. I will bend the做 that insert off for the last 20minutes. Let's just work out the parts with that rolling tool that is just a spurt and then break it. of 27 inches and we'll get this position that both ends here. So that's right at 27. Score it. It'll break on its own. As you lift it up, it once it separates you can just stick your blade in and cut that back piece of paper. And you have a pretty decent cut. All right, so we get this piece in place here. So the screws that are used in here are inch and five-eighths. I always use coarse thread. I honestly don't understand the fine thread drywall screws. They don't really bite into the wood and they don't hold the drywall. Course threads, in my opinion, is a way to go. I don't really know what the fine thread, what the point of those are. So coarse thread, two and five-eighths inch is the length, which is a pretty good length for a half-inch drywall to get into studs. I would never, ever, ever, ever recommend using nails of any sort for any reason. There's no, never a reason to use nails. It's not going to save you that much money, especially on ceiling drywall and stuff like that. Every house ever been in the used nails on drywall, they all are popping out. So do yourself a favor. Use a screw. All right, so when you put the screws in, obviously you're going to make sure you're going into a stud. So you want to screw the screw in just below the surface. You don't want to bust through the paper completely. You want to kind of pull the paper in just about a 16-tip of an inch. You want that screw head to be just below the paper surface so you can come by with some drywall more later on and smooth that right over. You'll never see it. So right there is just about perfect. You can just barely feel the divot there. Your home improvement stores are going to sell these nice metal corner pieces that'll fit right on here. This metal edge will usually show through here here in mud and that's all right. That's going to get painted and it's going to look real crisp there on the edges. So you always want to use these whenever you're having outside corner that you're joining together. And if you look at drywall, they all come with a beveled edge. So the edge right here in this last half inch is just a little bit thinner. So this is a half inch piece of drywall, but it's probably like three eighths of an inch right here at the tip. And that's so that when you put another piece up against it, you've got about an inch of space here where it's a little bit lower so that when you tape and mud this joint, for instance right here, when you tape and mud this joint, you're going to build this up about an eighth of an inch when you tape and mud and feather it out this way. And so it just helps your seams be seamless. You won't see that seam and you won't have to build up your mud and feather it out quite as far because of that little kind of indentation where they meet. So you need to keep that in mind. So for instance here, I'm going to put a piece on the top and it's going to butt up against this one. I want to make sure I don't use a cut edge. I want to use the factory edge to butt up against this factory edge. Now I don't care about the edge at the top. For instance right here, the edge that's going to be underneath the metal corner because it's going to be covered by the metal corner. So I don't care about this edge, but I do care which I use for the bottom part here. All right, so we're getting ready to do our mudding and there's a few things that you are going to need to do that. So whenever you're doing drywall seams, you're going to want to get some drywall tape. This is good for your flat seams as well as your corners. It has a crease in the middle there that'll help you fit that right into any corner. So I've already gotten started here and I have a few different tools that I use. I picked up this tray. It's a 14 inch mudding tray. It's a stainless steel tray. This thing has been, they're not that expensive and it's just something you need to get, especially if you do any quantity of drywall mudding. You want to get something like this. You're going to throw your mud in here if you need to wet it down a little bit, which I'll talk about later. You can do that, mix it in this tray and then you'll need a couple drywall knives. This is a six inch and then I also have an eight inch and a 12 inch knife. Generally, I don't use the eight inch to be honest with you. I generally start with the smaller six inch and then I go right up to the larger 12 inch to do my final taping. So you also, this is extremely handy to have. You don't have to have a corner tool, but this is something I definitely recommend. It really makes the corners look good and I'll show you how to use this here in just a few minutes as well. And of course, you're going to need some drywall compound. I prefer to buy the pre-mixed stuff. It's in a comes in four and a half gallon buckets here. Joining compound or drywall mud is it's coming for two. But I really prefer this stuff over the powder. You don't have to deal with mixing, you don't have to deal with mixing what you need and then throwing out the rest and all this stuff. This stuff stores really well. This lid seals on. So even if you open it and use it, you can seal it back up and store it. I've even stored this stuff up to a year and open this up and use it just fine. So I definitely recommend going with the pre-mixed, even though it may cost you a couple extra bucks. It's totally worth it. All right, so we're getting ready to do one of our seams here. We've got two seams that cross in this particular case, but either way, it's going to be the same process. We're going to use a mud and tape to cover the seam. So whenever you're working with the drywall compound, joint compound here, you usually want to keep the mud on the edge of your knife. And so you'll kind of manipulate it around in the pan here and get a good little scoop just like that. And then you're just going to take it over here and you want to force it into the gap and just drag it down. So we're just going to get a little line of mud there. All right, and now we have some sheet rock or drywall tape. This does have a crease in it so you can fold it into corners. It doesn't, as far as I know, it doesn't really matter which way you put this on the wall, but it does seem to fold out that way. So I usually roll it right down on the wall just like that. So we're going to start right at the top here and just keep the center line right with the crease in your joint there. Roll it all the way down to the bottom and tear it off. Now I like to go back and just put a little bit of mud on top of it just to kind of make it so my knife will slide easier. Then you want to start about 12 inches down from the top of your tape. If you start too far towards top of your tape, you're going to pull the tape down. So we'll start down here and press pretty firmly. We're going to squeegee this right down to make sure it's nice and flush. So generally for the first coat here, I just want to make sure that the tape is covered and stuck down nice and firmly. Once this dries, I'll just quickly kind of sand it over, make sure it's smooth, and then we're going to use our larger 12 or 14 inch knife to really feather this out. So we want the highest part here in the middle of the tape and then it's going to feather out, maybe six inches on each side. And then you'll get a nice, nice transition. You'll never see the seam once it's painted at all. But this is good for our first coat. Just got everything kind of sealed up and get the tape stuck on there. So I'll show you how we're doing the edges here. All right, so we've got our edge bead on here and metal bead. So what this does is this creates a real high point right on the corner. And so if you could see underneath this, there's a big gap from the tip of this corner down to my drywall. There's a good almost a quarter inch gap underneath here. And so we need to feather that out and fill that with mud. Applying the mud to this is pretty easy. We just want to get start to fill in that gap. And it doesn't have to be perfect. If you're going to come back and you're going to sand this all out, anyway. So that looks pretty good for this coat. I'll show you what we're doing in the corners. All right, so for our corners here, we're just going to start to force some mud into the gap. So we're going to take our tape here and I like to kind of get it started. Go right to the top here. Just kind of gently guide it into that corner. Just get a little bit on top of everything here. You know, here's where our corner tool comes in handy. This is going to tip of this right here is where you want all the pressure. This will automatically feather it out. But all we're doing, all we're trying to do here is just make sure we've got a nice perfect corner going right down the wall here. So again, we're going to start about 12 inches away from the very top just so we don't pull the tape down. And I'm going to use my finger here to push into that corner pretty hard. And we're going to smooth that tape right down all the way to the bottom. Now there's lots that are for ways to feather this out. But again, for this stop, we're mainly just trying to get this tape kind of laid down in here. So I'm just going to go like this. I'm not going to run it down vertically. I'm just going to kind of horizontally scrape off my mud and feather it out just a little bit this way. And that's pretty much it for this stop. I got the tape stuck in there. And we feathered that out just a little bit. So a real thin coat and we'll come back and sand that and that'll be nice and smooth. So the last thing we need to really deal with here is the screws. Just grab a little bit of mud on your knife. Push it in and kind of lightly scrape it by and you're done. You don't want to scrape it real hard like that and just leave a dot because that drywall compound is going to shrink. It'll shrink up a little bit or it'll expand just a little bit and you end up with how you're a little bump there or a little divot there. And then you can't do anything about that. So you want to kind of leave a bump on top of it. Kind of build it up around it and then you're going to come back with your sandpaper and just touch the edges of that real quick. About three seconds of sanding and that screw is done and you'll never see that once you get painted. So once everything has dried here I've given it a good 24 hours or even longer. I like to use these sanding screens. These things just last a long time and I don't even put them on that these are made for those applicator deals with the handle on it. But I just use it on my hand and I can feel what's my hand. I can feel the high spots in the low spots and so I can kind of press with my fingers or my palm in different areas as I sand to apply more pressure to a higher spot. All right so we've got everything sanded down here, sanded this down almost right to the tape. So very little mud on top of here. So we're going to go ahead and remod over this and am using a 12 inch knife. So this is going to help us feather out from the center of our tape line out about six to eight inches. So and that is pretty close right there. Looks like I went a little bit thin here so we'll go back and then touch this up a little bit but that's the basic idea. I've got it feathered out a total of about 12 inches a little bit more than that. So about six inches on each side of tape. And once you sand that down with some fine sandpaper you'll never see it. All right everything is dried and we're ready to sand and I've been started already as you can see but sanding is a mess and I really am in a concentrate on these edges of where I feathered out. I want that to be flat to the drywall. I'm not going to sand real heavily right in the middle because we don't want to lower the middle because we have kind of a mountain here where you know about a 16th to an eighth of an inch rise in the center to the outside. So we want to make sure we keep that nice and smooth and just make sure everything's ready to paint. So we'll go ahead and get started here and make this look nice. So here's the other side of the room over here everything's sanded and it turned out pretty good. We've got a nice nice crisp corner all the way along there and all the tape is covered pretty well. Everything's pretty smooth here and it looks like we should shouldn't see any any tape lines there. So all right so we've got all of our primer and paint on here. So this is the wall that we've been kind of demonstrating the process and as you can see it looks pretty darn good. It's not perfect but you can't see most of the tape lines and everything went went pretty well here. There are a few little issues I can see we've got some paint run over here where we had a little bit of an edge so maybe sand is too thin there but those little things are going to happen especially when you're learning. I had some oopsies as well. A spot over here just did not turn out very good at all and had a tape pop through over here so this was a very bad job. But you know again I don't do this very often so we learn and we keep moving forward with it. But most of the other joints turned out pretty good especially the one that at least the one that I demonstrated on turned out really well. So but everything looks pretty good in here. We're starting to get the flooring put on. A lot to go finished up so we'll have those videos coming out soon. So that's a basic take on how to drywall and mud and get all that completed. One of my least favorite things to do with all these projects is the drywalling process and I think it's kind of intimidating to a lot of people. It is an art and it does take time to really learn to do it well but you're never going to learn to do it well if you don't try it. So I definitely would encourage you guys. You have questions throw them down below and I know there's a lot of pros out there that have a lot of good tips with drywall that have done this more than I have. Please throw those down in the comments as well as always because everybody can read and learn from those. So throw that stuff down below. As always guys hit thumbs up on the video. Thanks for watching. Have a good one.