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hi I'm CLA Louise and I'm a theatrical
wardrobe mistress working in the West
End of London today I'm going to be
sharing with you some of my tips and
tricks on how to get the best out of
clothing repairs and
alterations in this video I'm going to
show you how to make a petticoat now
we're going to make a net Petticoat
which is great for full skirted projects
the first thing you need to do is take a
measure from your waist to the Le that
you'd like your pett coat to finish at
and that's going to form the drop of
your skirt and then take a measurement
of your waist and you need to times that
by 2 and 1/2 and that's how long this
piece of fabric is going to be so it's 2
and 1/ half times your waist in length
and then however long you'd like it is
the drop we're going to add a frill onto
this P coat and the frill we need to cut
out some strips that are as long or as
deep as the frill we'd like to have
and they need to be 2 and 1/2 times the
length of the unders skirt so that's a
long strip of net that's 2 and 1 half
times the length of the underskirt and
for economical reasons I often join
together pieces of net and get the most
out of the fabric rather than buying a
great long length of
it so the first thing we do to the under
layer of our ptic
coat we need to join the two cut edges
and with net it's very spiky so we're
not going to create a seam by putting
edges together we've actually laid the
net like this on top of itself and then
machined it flat so that there's no
scratchy bits sticking into your skin as
you're wearing it and I've machined that
from the
bottom up to the top and I've left an
openings that I can step into this pet
coat so the next stage we need to get GA
all the way around this unders skirt and
then attach it to a
waistband to do this we're going to use
a quick technique for Gathering that's
actually
called gathering over a cord um so
instead of using a gathering thread on
the sewing machine I'm going to lay some
button hole thread and zigzag over it to
create a little Channel you need quite
good machine skills to do this or by the
special foot that you can get for this
job when Machining something that's
round like a skirt or a pett coat it's
sometimes easier to stitch it from the
inside of the circle so that it turns
that way it it seems to prevent it
getting caught up on the machine so the
first thing I'm going to do is go over
to a
zigzag and then I'm just going to fold
over that Edge to give myself a little
bit of hem on the
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opening and I lay my cord in so I'm
lining my cord up with the middle of my
sewing foot so that the zigzag is going
either side of the cord you mustn't hit
this cord or you won't be able to pull
it along and then I'm just going to
zigzag all the way over all the way
around the waist of my peso
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my zigzagging is forming a
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channel so I've
gathered done a zigzag all the way
around the top of my um p coat over that
little
cord and now I'm going to start
Gathering that up onto a
waistband this is called grow grain
Peters shim or grow grain ribbon and
it's a really nice soft but firm woven
tape that's good for waistbands I don't
like to use regular Pim because I think
it's a bit too scratchy I'm just going
to take a
measure and Mark including a little
overlap the finished
waste now the next thing I need to do
with my waistband
is to find a middle
point and pop a pin in
it and then I want to find a quarter
point and put a pin in
it and this helps us match it up to our
skirt
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and then I'm going to do exactly the
same thing with the top of my
skirt taking my my open edges
together I'm going to put a pin and
sometimes I use safety pins to mark this
because pins fall out of the net and
then I'm going to find the
quarters and put pens in there
and the reason I'm doing this is so that
I can spread the gathers evenly across
the top onto my
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waistband so if I take this
cord and then I can just
slide the
fabric along the
top and I'm going to do this until the
top is the same as my
waistband this is a really easy way of
doing Gathering so I'm now going to
attach this to the top of my pett coat
and I'm going to do that by matching up
that
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pin with the first bit of my
opening and then the other end point the
other end point I'm going to match to
that opening and match it to the middle
pin on my skirt now once they measure
about the same I'm just going to take
this cord and wrap it around that pin a
little figure of eight because I don't
want it to unravel as I'm pulling along
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so the whole point of gathering is to
make a long piece of fabric into a
shorter piece of fabric with folds in
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it and again I'm going to finish off fix
off this Edge just by wrapping it around
that PIN
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get rid of bit of the
excess so the next thing is just to pin
and that'ss a bit
unwieldy I just want to pin spread these
pleates and pin them evenly along this
tape so I've now pinned and evenly
spread all my plates along my
waistband and I'm ready to take this to
the sewing machine to machine this on
now when I'm sewing net I often like to
sew it with a zigzag because net tears
quite a lot and it's quite good to
really get it stitched in by using a
nice flat Stitch like a zigzag so I'm
just going to zigzag close to the edge
of my waistband all the way around
holding down all the
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plates so I'm now going to remove all of
these pins and it's really important
with
net to make sure you do this at this
stage because if you leave them in
they're quite easy to stay hidden and
I've left them in
costumes and scratched people the next
stage I just need to trim down some of
this excess Fabric in here because we're
going to cover this so that it all looks
nice and I'm just going in here with a
sharp pair of scissors and trimming down
all this
excess we're now going to add some bias
binding over that just to tie up the
inside of our waistband and make sure
it's not
scratchy so I want a little bit of extra
on one side so I've got space to put a
hook and with a straight Stitch this
time going to start at the
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bottom and I'm just visually lining up
the edge
of my binding with the bottom
edge of my
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waistband and because bias binding is
stretchy I'm going to start at the
beginning and go back across the top
rather than turning around and having
everything twist so I go back to where I
first started stitching the bias
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so now on the inside all of that
scratching there is covered with this
bias tape and you've got a really nice
secure waistband at the top of your pyo
unders skirt the last stage is to put a
hook and bar and just finish off that
waistband there so that's how you make a
petticoat