 Hey, so this video is about reviving an old work truck. It's not necessarily how to video. I'm just going to go through a slide show of the stuff that I did to this truck to spruce it up a little bit. You guys can use some of these tips and pointers to do the same thing to one of your old work trucks to make it worthy of the road and work worthy. So here it is. Alright, so this is the truck. It's a 1971 Ford F100. Nothing too special. I bought it as a work truck for 400 bucks, so I got a pretty good deal on it. It doesn't look too bad in the pictures, but it's got a lot of rust. One thing it did have going for it though is it had the Ford 300, which was there in line 6 engine. And honestly, I think that it's about the only good thing that Ford ever did because this engine just ran beautifully. It had over 300,000 miles and never skipped a beat. It also had the Borgon Warner T18 transmission, which is a force-beat manual. Nothing special about it. It's pretty stout though. Never had any issues with that. This is just another picture of the truck. You can't really tell, but it's got a lot of rust, a lot of rot, a lot of pitting, so that's something that I really wanted to fix on it. But before I could do that, I figured it's more important since this is a work truck to make it a work truck and that included getting new suspension. So this is the back shocks. The rear leaves were pretty good. They didn't really need replacing, so I just replaced the rear shocks. I've put in F250 HD shocks in place of the half-tun shocks to make it a little more beefy and a little more stuff. This is just a picture of working on the truck and the pit and the shop there. These are the front springs. Also F250 springs up front. Now you can see the old spring is broken and shopped. So I figured it's best to replace that. This truck is going to be hauling car trailers and whatnot. You want to beefy suspension, so I opted for the three-quarter ton package. There's the front suspension installed. That was about it for the suspension. Everything else was good. The bushings and everything up front and that wishbone. Everything was good, so I didn't mess with any of that. One problem that it did have though was a really weak brake system. All the lines were dry-rooded, so here's a couple pictures of the new lines that I installed. Figure brakes might be fairly important, you know? After all of the mechanical stuff that I fixed up, I figured it'd probably be a good idea to replace the floor, because sooner or later you're going to fall through this. You know, I mean, the floor is pretty much not existent. So cut the floor out. Replace it with new sheet metal, obviously, because yeah, it's a work truck, but I also wanted to be safe. This was a huge headache. I have a whole video on the how-to process of how I did this. So if any of you guys are interested, go and check that out. It's on my channel. Yeah, a huge headache. It was awful. So anyway, this is the new floor. We'll have the new floor welded in. After that, it was good to go. You know, it was ready to roll, but it still didn't look too good, so I wanted to do some cosmetic work. And started off with the front fenders. That's what this is a picture of. Obviously, it's rounded away. Got some of that Minnesota moss on there. So instead of buying new fenders, since this is kind of a budget build, I just wanted to fix it and be done with it, you know, make it look good, but not perfect. It's not a show truck by any means. So I got some donor fenders, cut the new metal out, cut the rusty stuff out, and then took some angle iron and a rubber mallet. And just shaped the steel to basically how it's supposed to be. And then tack welded in. But before I did that, I covered the inner fender with PR-15. It's kind of a rust inhibitor. Just so that way it wouldn't keep rusting even after I put the new metal in there. So this is the new patch panel welded in. We'll tacked in. Then I just go and continue to do some work. Then I just go and continue welding until it's fully welded in. And since my welding's not perfect, it was a little wavy here and there, so I used some body filler to kind of smooth it all out. And I threw a coat of primer on it, and it's not perfect, you know, but it looks better than a big rusty hole. So then I moved on to the other side. Same exact process. Cut the rust out. Got the new piece of metal in there. Started tack welding it in. And you'll notice in my tack welds there are a few inches apart. And that's just so the metal doesn't warp because it's real thin. So you don't want to run a straight bead on sheet metal. It'll just start warping and you'll just, you'll end up with a huge mess. So this is the other fender once it's welded in. Solid. Then obviously there's some body filler over it again. And cold again. And then I got to the bed sides, which were extremely pitted. So took it straight down to steel. Any other rust that I couldn't get rid of in the pits, I used rust reformer on and that basically stops the rust in tracks and makes it good to go. So I used the rust reformer in the pits and then covered all the pitted material with body filler. So the bed sides were all smooth again. This is a picture of the body just primed up, you know, ready for paint. But before I could do that, I'd fix the bed. And this was kind of another pain because it's something that I wanted to kind of avoid. But I couldn't haul anything in this bed because the minute you put any pressure on that thing, you know, you were going to fall through. So got some sheet metal, cut it out, measured, and then cut out the rust. And that center frame rail right there, it looks like it's really rusty and it kind of was. But I could stand on there with my whole weight. It was still pretty solid. So figured I'm not even going to replace it. Just going to leave it how it is and get the new metal over top. So that's, that's the new metal when it's starting to get tacked in. Which was an extremely long process, by the way. And this is when it's all finished up. And you can see the rest of the bed is, there's no holes in it, but it's, you know, rusty and it's kind of going. So I cleaned the whole thing up, sanded it down, got it prepped, and then used POR. 15 to coat the entire bed to stop it from rusting. I would use bed liner, but like I said, this is a budget project, you know, I think I only spend about 1200 bucks on this truck total, including the 400 that I bought it for. So I mean, I cut a lot of costs and the POR is going to hold up, you know, not as good as bed liner, but it's doing the job. So figure it's good enough, you know, for an old work truck. And this is basically the finished project after a lot more sanding and prep work and everything. Finally got it painted. And believe it or not, this is paint out of a rattle can. I mean, you can do pretty amazing things with a rattle can, you know, if you want to, if you take your time and do the right prep work, you can end up with a really good look at vehicle. I wouldn't recommend going and spray paint, you know, just anything, but I mean, if you got a $400 work truck and you don't really carry, you just wanted to look a little bit better than how it did. Then I highly recommend going this route. It's cheap. It takes a long time, but I don't know, I had a lot of fun doing it. And yeah, I mean, now I have a good look in work truck that isn't an embarrassment driving down the road, you know. So that's pretty much it. Hopefully you guys got a couple tips from this or whatever and hopefully motivate you guys to revive your own more trucks.