hello and welcome to Professor
pincushion in this tutorial I'm going to
be talking about underlining in my
demonstration here the underlining is
the purple fabric underneath my lace
fabric since underlining most likely
will be seen from the right side of the
Garment is another way to make your
garment extra unique let's go ahead and
get
started first I want to talk about the
difference between lining and
underlining now they can serve a similar
function but the technique in putting
them in are slightly different with
lining you're sort of constructing both
pieces individually you have your outer
garment that you sew and then you have
your lining that you sew and then you
slip the lining inside the Garment so
there is some assembly with both so it's
sort of like a garment within a garment
with underlining you usually are going
to have underlining if your top fabric
that you're using is very sheer delicate
Lacy that sort of thing obviously if I
just use this I'm going to have a
problem with transparency we don't want
our garment to be completely see-through
so we have an underlining that's going
to go underneath so this prevents
transparency and then it also helps with
the stability of the fabric if your
fabric happens to be very very
lightweight and delicate so it kind of
helps with that end now with again with
the lining we're doing each individually
and then sewing them together with
underlining though we're we're sort of
doing it before we even start with
construction so you have your main piece
and then you use your pattern for this
piece to cut out the same in the
underlining for underlining I recommend
using a very lightweight fabric you
don't want to use a very delicate Fabric
and then use a really heavyweight fabric
for the underlining so it still has some
of the same consistency once it's sewn
together you're taking two pieces and
you're making them one individual piece
so once the underlining is done then you
go ahead and sew your garment as normal
so again I cut my main piece I cut my
underlining then I'm going to place them
on top of each other so right side is up
for both of them for my lace I'm looking
at the right side for my underlining I'm
looking at the right
side so it just looks like one piece now
the these two individual pieces are laid
on top of each other and you're going to
pin around the whole perimeter of the
piece once the two layers are pinned
together we're then going to do a basing
Stitch around the whole perimeter but
I'm not just going to do a single Bas
Stitch like that instead I'm going to do
each side separately so I'm going to
start here and you can do it at your
seam alowance or you can do it a little
bit smaller than the seams it's really
up to you you can do this side so you
just start here and here cut your
threads then this side same thing than
this side so again each side is done
individually the basing Stitch is going
to be the longest stitch on your machine
you don't have to worry about any back
stitching this is just a temporary
stitch in order to hold these two pieces
together because once you start sewing
the Garment together then they'll be
more permanently stitched
in after you finish basting it may look
a bit of a mess because we do have all
of these threads but I wouldn't go ahead
and trim it until you're further along
in the construction process and have
more permanent seams in place now that
we have our underlining basted to our
top Fabric in this case my lace we're
just going to treat this as a single
piece so now you can go ahead actually
start the construction and just sew your
garment as
normal here's a little bit of my bodice
a little bit more completed so you can
really get the effect of the underlining
under my lace now another difference
between lining and underlining is that
with lining the inside is going to look
more fin because it's covering most of
your seam allowance with the underlining
it's not really doing that you're still
going to have raw seam allowances inside
your garment so if you want to finish
them go ahead but you can see the
underlining gives it a really elegant
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