 Day two, butt joint. We still got butt joints on the ceiling. Just take that do you knife. I cleaned that junk off. Now we're good to go. So the sustain process, we're just going to fill down one side. Get a good packing mud. If you collect your mud and put on your hawk so you don't have much at the top and bottom, you shouldn't land all over your face when you're working upside down like this. Okay. Now we want to clean. Like putting that pressure. You see the ridge is too close. There we go. I'm going to put the pressure on the other side over here. And then one down the middle on the paper. And leave those lines there. That tells us where it is that we've filled to and what we have to fill afterwards. Okay. Same thing coming the other way. So in drywall, less is more. The goal is not to put on so much mud and then sand for 14 days to get it all nice and smooth. The goal is to imply the mud smooth and then just sand to change the texture of the surface. That's it. Alright. So here we go. We've got that all set up. Less is more. If we put too much on there, then we've got to take it all back off again. That's just a waste of time. Once you have all your butt joints done, if you still have any mud left, you can take care of all your inside corners. Alright? Just a real quick look. Take your corners knife. Run your corner with it real quick. Make sure that you don't have any big chunks of mud that are in your way. Again, a little bit of mud. I like to go with the left side of the corner first because I'm right handed. It just makes sense to me. And I'm just going to go and put more mud than I need. Okay. This is one application where you don't want to use this side of your knife because you want to set up mud flowing from zero to cover over that four inches. Keep your tools clean as you go. You won't wear it. Alright. No. What I want to do is I want to use pressure on this knife like this. Cleaning this mud as tight as I can and leaving the ridge. Now you see I'm going to change direction because when you're doing finish work, you always come towards your finish work. Now what I'm going to do is I'm going to trough out the inside corner with my knife. Now when I put my pressure on, it'll fill it up and finish flat without any access. You see that? Not making the other side of that corner dirty. As soon as I see a little excess mud, I'll take it out, hit the trough again, clean my knife, and I'll start coming from the other direction this time. Always finishing to finish mud. Second day, first coat on your inside corners, only do one side. There's a tool on the market. We should talk about this. I've got a handle and it's got this little v-nodge on it. It's designed to put a bunch of mud in the corner and you track it down. It's supposed to clean all the excess mud out of your way, but it leaves way too much mud in the corner and the corner isn't sharp. You want a 90 degree corner. Use a tool of 90 degrees. Those are really rounded. When you come back into sand that, you're always going to sand too much out of the corner. You know what? These deep, great big deep grooves in your drywall looks like help. We saw in day one, we liked to install our paper corner beads and all of our bulkheads. There's no meat in the back of there, right? No wood. But on day two, I like to put all my metal corner beads on and maybe the camera can pick this up. But you'll see that it's 90 degrees, maybe even open a little bit more than 90 degrees. What I prefer to do, take two seconds, pinch that together, more of an 85. The reason is when I screw this on, I want the outside corner of that bead to be sticking out in both directions. I don't want it flattened. I know these are made for really quick installation. There's a tool on the market for the professional drywall installers. They put the corner bead on and they just slam this hammer device over top of it and it breaks the metal, it scrapes the drywall and they're good to go. But if you're working in your home and you're like a nice joint, this is the way to put it on. We're going to push it up to the ceiling. Now max, maybe with the camera, you can see this. Now I've got a gap here and I've got a gap here to fill. Alright, so when you do an outside corner bead, you're going to have a pretty significant gap and that's a good thing. And because we've bent the metal and created a nice gap, we can use drywall screws. Again, there is a blue ring drywall nail on the market and it's a nice little nail and you can hammer them in. It's a thin metal. It's a flat head and you can pound them in and it does a great job. But I would rather have to push that, get a good grab. Then I don't have to rely on adhesives or something mechanical that busts through the metal into the drywall. It's a little old fashioned, but I get to sleep at night. And you don't have to put a screw in every single hole. Every 16 to 24 inches is plenty. The longings have a nice tight corner and you're good to go. Okay, so I'm going to take my 45 minute mud here now. We're going to fill this metal corner and we're going to go at all of our paper beads and fill those as well. Day two is outside corner day and I'm just using the side of my trail and loading it on. Okay. And that's it folks. Coming back and taking it off. I'm just setting my knife about three inches from the inside corner there. I don't want to take out any mud that's not necessary out of that inside corner. That's a fresh corner. All right. I'm using pressure on this knife because I don't want to groove it out. Just want to clean it up. I made a mess of my inside corner so I'm going to go back and fix that right away. Okay, so this is going to be a door frame. Really important when you're working around door frames. You don't add a thickness to the wall next to where your door jam goes. Okay. So you don't want to just have this huge pile of mud sitting there like that. All right. This is going to cause you a whole world of hurt when it goes to do finishing trim. You want to clean as tight as you can from that drywall to the outside of that corner. So put your knife on there. Use some pressure. We got a 45 minute mud on our hook. You're probably talking and moving a little faster as it dries. But you want to just take your knife. Double check that everything is cleaned up. Where you get started, fill it and just I'm kind of doing like a rolling. I'm starting like that and rolling it off. Okay. Just so that I leave the mud on the wall. That's just easier. Then you can move back a little bit of pressure. Okay. And I don't need this to be perfect. I just need it not to be bumpy. I don't want anything sticking out further than what I'm going to have as a finish because we're going to come back in about a half an hour and put another coat on it. Now when you're doing underneath, again start from the outside. Roll it off at the corners. When you come to one of these outside corners, come at it from the angle. So you're finishing on both metals at the same time. Okay. That'll set the depth of the mud real nice. When you're ready to clean it off, you can come out of this way. He's off on the pressure. Come out of this way. He's off on the pressure. And then come out of the backside. All right. You're going to see this ridges. They're not your enemy. You can clean them up a little bit. But leave the ridges there. Something like that. Okay. So we're still working on our second coat. So I like to work through my room clockwise because I'm right handed. That way I'm always finishing towards my finished mud. So I did my outside corner, I've done my inside corner. Now we're going to do a horizontal joints. This is day two. And this is a fill coat day. What we're looking at is we're looking at throwing a lot of mud on the wall to fill the coat from here to here. And then maybe to stretch it out just to hair. Make sure that it's on this level. So when you're doing that, you want to put pressure on the bottom and a bit of an angle here. So you're not pouring mud all over the floor. Okay. Clean off all the excess. And then with a little bit of pressure, top and bottom nice and even, fill it all in. That's it. We don't want to see this on second coat. I don't want to see that. If you can't see the tape, you've used too much mud. All right. The mud is somewhat translucent. When you do it properly, you should be able to see your tape through the mud. Okay. You want to see the definition of the tape or joint. And you want to know that you've just filled what's necessary. And that's it. And you've taken the rest of that mud off the wall. Second opportunity. Hit the screw holes. Okay. Never let an opportunity go by to hit the screw holes. It gives you an opportunity to make sure that they're all sunk. You don't have the head sticking out. And oh. We have a reason. Need to investigate. Okay. So somewhere during construction here, that screw hole missed the mark. And it's getting filled. When that happens, don't just cover it up with mud and cover it up with mud and then sand it bump smooth. Dent it with your handle. Fill that hole with mud. All right. Same with this. This is a bit of a mess. Okay. Add mud, add paper. Clean it out. Here's the crazy part. Now this patch is back to first coat. And this is ultimately the problem. So what we would fix this is tomorrow when we come, when this is dry, we'll actually hit this with some 45 minute mud. And then we'll just finish coat over top. That way the whole job is finished together. All right. So the only thing left to do on second coat is to hit your outside corners with your finish mud. And here's what you do. Just take your finger in it. If it makes a hole, it's not dry. We'll do this one a few minutes. If you're enjoying these videos, subscribe to the channel, hit the like button. And most importantly, comment on the videos. By all means, you're a suggestion and video you'd like to see. Let us know. We'd love to be in touch.