[Music]
hey all and welcome to another awesome
tutorial in today's video I'll step you
through the process of not only building
the Walters lighthouse but I'll also
show you how to create a fantastic
little seaside diorama with a rocky
cliff face and some seawater at the
bottom there are quite a few steps in
making this model so let's not waste any
more time and get started building as
mentioned this is the rocky point
lighthouse kit from Walters it's a
simple kit to build so simple in fact
that I didn't need to reference the
instructions but they are there if you
need them the kit also comes with a base
but I'll be using it you'll need some
basic tools to get started
files hobby knife and some quality sprue
cutters each piece is carefully removed
and any excess sprue is removed and the
edges filed clean to remove obvious seam
lines like this you can lightly drag the
hobby knife over the area this gently
scrapes away a small amount of plastic
until the seam line has completely been
removed the main lighthouse tower had
this same problem and the seam lines
were removed the same way to straighten
warped parts like the wall sections here
I first placed them in some hot water
after several minutes I removed the
parts I gently flex them in the
direction to straighten them and leave
them to cool with some weights on top
depending on how badly the parts are
warped you may need to repeat the
process of couple of times to assist
with painting the pieces I'm using some
painting clips from the scale modelers
supply the steel wire threads have a
tendency to fray at the ends so to
prevent this from happening
I add a small drop of solder to the end
of each clip now I can press them into
the phone without the ends coming apart
as much as I like the red walls I think
the color scheme could look a little bit
better for a lighthouse
Vallejo white primer is used on all the
paths that will eventually be painted in
off-white color as for the lighthouse
tower when the seam lines were scraped
away it left a smooth area to bring back
some texture I missed some spray paint
over the model from a distance as a
result the paint partially dries as it
comes into contact with the model and
creates a rough texture on the surface
once happy with the overall texture i
prime the tower with white primer some
of the textured paint particles stand
out a bit too far for hecho scale so I
very lightly send them back until the
texture is a little more uniform now all
the main parts can be painted using
Vallejo off-white you'll likely need to
thin the Vallejo paint quite a bit
before spraying it through the airbrush
the rest of the details are painted with
Tamiya light grey masking can be a bit
of a challenge at times luckily all the
areas that needed masking on this model
we're in easy to reach places the frames
were painted a nice dull red I didn't
want the color to be too bright and
Vallejo fire red seemed to look good
painting the roof to look more
three-dimensional and more realistic was
done by painting individual tiles a
particular gray color trying to randomly
apply the colors across the roof without
it looking like a pattern the entire
roof was then sprayed with Vallejo dark
sea grey the coat was thin enough that
the different colored tiles were
noticeable under the dark sea grey color
the same process was applied to the rock
foundations for different beige colors
were applied randomly to individual
stones and then over the top a thin down
stone gray was applied
to further accentuate the stonework a
black wash was liberally applied over
the top and then excess wash was wiped
away from the top of the stones leaving
a small amount in the immortal lines the
rest of the parts are painted a dark sea
gray color just be sure to carefully
mask the lighthouse watch room and be
sure to avoid getting paint on the
inside surfaces when painting now that
everything has been painted we can start
assembling the lighthouse Tamiya extra
thin cement was used to glue the model
together and the windows were press fit
into position
just remember to install the LED before
glowing the top of the lighthouse
together
window-curtains are supplied in the kit
and do a great job of hiding the bare
interior like paper is also included to
prevent viewers from being able to see
right through the building but if you
use the curtains you I need to use the
paper lighthouses tend to be well
maintained but a small amount of
weathering can go a long way and these
weathering chunks go a long way as well
so you'll only need a very small amount
on your brush to get the desired effect
try to imagine where rust and dirt may
build up and then what would happen if
it rained and started to wash the dirt
and rust away that's where I try to add
the effects like rust streaking and
grime a dusting of light mud is applied
around the base of the entire building
it's a very thinned down mixture that
way I only apply a very light coat and I
can gradually build up the color in
stages until I'm happy it's hard to see
but it is there and it makes a big
difference when comparing the before and
after additional detail and improvements
are added using the any cubic 3d printer
I've used this printer quite a lot to
add details to models and I'm using it
again on this one to improve the chimney
which I built and designed using
Tinkercad you can also download the 3d
file from our website if you'd like to
print one out for yourself some stairs
were also downloaded from Thingiverse
and printed which will be used a little
bit later once the parts are printed and
washed the supports are removed any
imperfections are sanded away and the
part is painted and weathered the
desired color for the chimney I used
Vallejo rust and some dirty yellow
weathering powder grimy black powder was
also weathered near the top and inside
the chimney as well
to create the base for the diorama I'm
using extruded foam bullet I pretty much
use this as the base for most of my
dioramas as its strong and rigid but
also lightweight which is perfect once I
have a general idea of how the scene
will be laid out I cut the foam to size
I then create a frame out of pine and
glue the foam to the inside of the frame
using polyurethane glue polyurethane
glue expands so you'll need to weigh and
clamp the pieces to ensure they don't
move as the glue sets the main landform
is going to be made using expanded
polystyrene it's a little cheaper than
the yellow foam board and it cuts much
easier with the hot wire foam tools the
basic composition of the scene is copied
onto the white foam and foam is then
clamped together and I use a hot knife
to carve out the general shape of the
terrain I'm not worried about it being
perfect as it will eventually be covered
in Rock molds and plaster
before gluing the foam to the base I
first roughen the surface so the glue
gets a good strong bond I again use
polyurethane glue to glue the foam
together
make sure to weight down as the glue
sets again to prevent the parts moving
as the glue expands and cures to create
the rocky cliff face I'm going to need
plenty of rocks I'm using a mixture of
woodland Scenic's rock molds as well as
some noch rock molds to attach the rocks
to the diorama I first wet the rock mold
I then use some more plaster of Paris to
act as a glue it gets liberally applied
to the back of the mold and then the
rock is pressed into position I work
from one end to the other right along
the diorama I'm not too worried about
gaps at this stage as that will be
filled later the stairs are also blended
into the scene with some plaster of
Paris to hide all those larger gaps I
fill them with more plaster of Paris
again just be sure to pre wet the area
so the plaster bonds well to the rock
molds
after the plaster has had some time to
begin to harden I come back in with a
small pick and start to chip away at the
plaster we use to fill the gaps to make
it look more jagged and rocky try to
match up existing fault lines from the
rock molds and connect them together to
the adjacent rocks that way you'll get a
much more realistic rock face and it
will be nearly impossible to see where
the original Rock molds begin and end
the rest of the landform is made using
sculpt at modeling mix basically it's
another version of sculptor mold and
it's perfect for modeling small hills
and undulating terrain after it has been
applied I continue to work the plaster
with the spatula until it starts to set
and I'm left with a nice smooth surface
I like to make it smooth so I have the
option later to add walking tracks and
roads rough dirt texture will be added
later any overhanging plaster that
protrudes over the edges is cleaned up
to seal the surface in preparation for
adding the water effects I use some
woodland cynics flex paste this gets
applied liberally over any areas of foam
and anywhere that resin will be poured
the paste helps seal any holes and also
creates a barrier between the foam and
resin I use a stippling motion to help
avoid having obvious brushstrokes being
visible any rock outcroppings can be
fixed into position with tacky glue as
for painting the rocks I use six
different colors and the airbrush step
one is the darker base layer of Vallejo
sea grey it's applied near the base of
the cliff just be sure to get it from
all angles so you're not left with any
bare white spots
step two is Vallejo light gray that is
applied to the upper areas of the cliff
face
step3 adds color variation between the
light and dark gray I use Vallejo rust
and blended it in where the two Gray's
meet I also add splashes of rust
randomly and spots across the cliff face
step 4
Vallejo Dec 10 across the entire cliff
face focusing in a top-down motion to
help highlight the top surfaces of the
rocks with smaller localized areas of
heavier application for additional
variation in color step 5 is Vallejo
black applied in a similar fashion to
the deck 10 however there is more of a
focus to apply this color to indicate
shadows on the bottom of the rocks and
in the cracks and valleys
it's then down quite a lot and only
applied in a very thin layer lastly step
6 is a dry brushing of Vallejo silver
grey using a large brush with soft
bristles works well for this job just
make sure to only have a very small
amount of paint on the brush as you
gently drag it across the rock face it's
easy to add more color but if you add
too much it's very hard to remove
the stairs get exactly the same
treatment as the rest of the rocks
before adding the dirt texture I paint
the surface and earthy brown color this
will for the most part be covered
however if any small areas of dirt
texture I missed it won't be so obvious
the ocean floor is first painted a dark
navy blue making sure to leave no white
spots I apply it right up to the base of
the cliff and use a small brush to help
get paint into the tight spots without
getting the blue paint onto the nicely
painted rocks depth is simulated by
painting the see various shades of blue
green and grey there's no exact science
I just add variations randomly until I
have something that looks natural keep
in mind that most of this will be hidden
with white water so it doesn't need to
be perfect
to make the dirt texture I use some dry
dirt from the yard the larger rocks and
twigs get sifted out to lighten the dirt
color I add some beige colored grout
until I get the color I'm after
when glue is applied it will dry much
darker
to ensure the dirt sticks to the slopes
and hills I first apply some diluted Mod
Podge and then apply the dirt to the
desired areas I first apply a coarse mix
of dirt with some larger rocks in it and
then over the top a fine grade of dirt
is applied through a stocking this fine
layer helps blend in the larger rocks a
lot of color of fine dirt texture is
applied to any areas where walking
tracks and dirt roads will be it's
applied the same way through a stocking
before applying a layer of glue I make
sure to dust away any dirt from areas
that I don't want it like the stairs
some areas of the rock face and from the
seabed the glue I'm using to fix the
dirt is a homemade mix of one part Mod
Podge and three parts water with a drop
of dish soap isopropyl alcohol is first
applied as this helps the glue soak into
the dirt giving a much more permanent
layer that isn't easily damaged now it's
just left to dry for a couple of hours
before I can add any greenery I first
need to create a mask for the building
that way I can easily add grass right up
to where the walls of the building will
be and there's no risk of damaging the
building with the static grass
applicator
the applicator I'm using is a knock
grass Master 2.0 along with some knock
static brass glue and the grass I'm
using is a mixture of greens from knock
and mini nature to add the static grass
simply use a brush to apply the glue in
the desired areas
I work in small sections at a time to
avoid having the glue dry before I've
had a chance to add the static grass the
first layer of grass is a mixture of six
millimeter static grass excess grass is
removed by turning the diorama upside
down and tapping on the base you could
also use a vacuum if turning the model
upside down isn't an option just be sure
to collect the excess grass for use on
other areas of the model using the end
of a paintbrush I tease the grass to
give it an uneven wild grass look I keep
working around the model until all the
desired areas are covered to help blend
between the six millimeter grass and the
dirt I add areas of two millimeters
static grass to the edges the same
method is used to apply the 2 millimeter
grass as I did with the 6 millimeter
grass I make sure to apply grafts
randomly around the edges of the
building as well additional variations
of green are added with some woodland
Scenic's coarse turf burnt grass and
blended turf once happy I make sure to
dust away the stray bits of grass and
foam and then I apply a layer of glue
again I first add the isopropyl alcohol
before applying the glue mixture
before adding resin I clean up the edges
with sandpaper and wipe the dust away to
create the dam for the resin I use
painters grade masking tape make sure
it's well and truly pressed onto the
diorama to prevent leaks excess tape is
then removed and the edges of the tape
are sealed with wood glue it's important
to ensure the diorama is on a level
surface before adding the resin at all
like the micro mark digital level works
perfectly for finding the level spots
for this model I'm using enviro Tech's
light and some blue and burnt umber
pigments and biotechs light is really
easy to use it gets mixed in a 50/50
ratio of hardener and resin I highly
recommend reading the instructions to
ensure you get the desired results when
it comes to adding color add small
amounts at a time the pigments are quite
powerful and it doesn't take much to get
the color you want
when pouring the resin I try not to pour
it any deeper than about five to eight
millimeters at a time the resin can get
quite warm as it cures and the deeper
the pore is the hotter it will get and
given that we have a foam base I don't
want it to get too hot bubbles are
easily removed with a soldering torch
like this just remember that scenery
doesn't like a hot flame so be very
careful that you avoid directing the
flame towards any dry scenery material
like the static grass and ground phones
all the resin cures I don't want any
dust to land on it so it gets covered
with a box about 24 hours later and it
should be cured and hard enough to
remove the tape from the sides extra
detail can be added using a variety of
methods bronze wire like this can be
used to create some handrails along the
cliff site near the stairs barriers
along the roadside and walkways are made
with some strip would that have been
colored with a black leather dye and
alcohol I mark out the locations for
each post drill a small hole and glue
them into position
the chain between each post is 40 links
per inch necklace chain it's weathered
using ferric chloride which is highly
corrosive and needs to be handled with
caution the chain doesn't need to be
left in for long before it's nicely
weathered and it gets dipped in water to
wash away the excess ferric chloride a
small drop of glue on top of each post
is all that's needed to hold the chain
in place once you get to the end the
remaining chain is cut as the lighthouse
has an LED in it I need to run the wires
down through the diorama using the hot
wire tools makes this job very easy
the building gets held into position
with Helmer super tacky adhesive around
its perimeter
the base is blended with the dirt
texture and gets glued down with the
alcohol & senic glue mixture highlights
along the dirt road and the walking
paths are made using yellow ochre pastel
and a soft brush it gets dusted along
the wheel tracks and any high-traffic
areas and walking spots bushes and
shrubs are also added this is a salt
bush tree found locally in South
Australia but any dried twigs with a
fine branch structure will work other
bushes and small trees are added using
sea foam material with foliage added to
see exactly how these are made you can
check out the video realistic gum trees
using sea foam to add the sea water
effects I'm using two products from
woodland Scenic's water ripples and
water waves the larger waves are added
by applying the water ripples product
liberally to the surface of the resin it
will initially find its own level as
it's applied to the surface however I
continue to cover the entire area once
the ripples product has had about 30
minutes to an hour to begin to harden it
will start to hold its shape as it's
manipulated I keep working it gently and
build up larger waves as the product
begins to dry just be patient and give
it some time as the product won't hold
the wave shape straightaway but it will
after a while
the Whitewater is made using the waves
product some white gesso and noch snow
the snow and waves gel are blended
together to make a thick paste once you
have sufficiently thick paste a small
amount of white gesso is added to give
the pasty white tint only a small amount
is needed as I want the foam to be
slightly translucent and I don't want it
to be a stark white color
the pace can then be applied and shaped
to resemble a broken wave it can be
built up quite hard to form a wave or
stippled out to be level with the
surface using a brush will help blend
between the built-up areas of the wave
and the rest of the water underneath the
pace can be pushed around and
manipulated for about 30 minutes before
it starts to set before I call the model
complete I had some last-minute details
like some birds and I also paint the
sides black to neaten up the edges I
hope you enjoyed watching and don't
forget if you want to help support the
channel be sure to check out my patreon
page where I have some special perks for
patrons Cheers
and thanks for watching