 Hello, welcome back to Billy Borough Training Center. Today we're going to be talking about floor paint. There's different types, we've one case and two case, so what we usually explain that is what goes along. Here's some of the products we're going to be using, some masking, rollers, scrapers and of course we'll talk about the safety entities. The different types of floor paints, we have one case and two case, so I'll just explain that with start off with the easiest paint, which is what we call a single pack paint, sometimes we've got one case paint. Basically very easy to use is designed for light traffic, all of areas like, where to be just foot traffic or maybe a garage and shared where there's lawn mowers, lothers, that type of stuff. It's fairly easy to use, straight forward and then after that we would have what we call two pack paints. In this case we have a two packy proxy paint, which we designed more for commercial use of a heavy traffic use. So if we're driving cars all over it, if it's in an area where it was going to spill it, it just can't spill it, it just never needs to have to look, maybe you have a two packy proxy paint, which is what we call a jar book, it will last a lot longer. Before we start we need to identify the floor, so we decided to walk on the condition of the floor again, what type of floor it is, it's concrete, it's wooden, whatever. And also the floor, where it's been power-floored, in a lot of industrial units, you might have a power-floored floor. If it is, you'll need a NASA's treatment to go on a forest, sort of paint as something to adhere to. It was a standard for poor concrete floor, using screeds, the surface would be poor enough, so it won't be an issue. And paint is also what's worth knowing is whether you have a situation with water leaks or something like that. That can be major problems, not water type paint, you use, that's what we live to love. If that's the situation, you need to sort them that first. We've also put a fair useful link on this video, so if you click on that and give you the do's and don'ts, there will be paint in a concrete floor, what to look for. Okay, the first thing you need to do is to prepare the floor. In my situation here, I got some heavy old paint stuck to the floor, so you might use a scraper, very convenient too. And we have a roller pole, it's the same pole we're going to use when we come to, rubbing the paint onto the floor. So, to save it back, that's cruising like that. I never knew that was scraper, scraping off any, it's about concrete paint or doors, that's well-distant ground. So, after we've scraped the floor down, a standard floor down, water leaks out, we sweep up, get rid of all the loose material, dust, dirt, get all off, and then we've ready to move on to the actual painting of the floor. We'll move on to the mixing process. This particular paint we're using is an epoxy 2K paint. So, we've explained that we've got the paint, we've got the hard enough, I know we have a tenor's to go into. The mixing ratio for this particular one is 3.5 parts of paint, to one part hard enough, to 20% tenor's. So, just to walk out how you actually do that, what we use is a plastic mixing cup, it's calibrated, so it has mesions on the sides. So, basically, we pour the paint up to 350 grams, then we'll go over the 100 grams of paint off harder, and then 20% tenor's, give it a good mix around, and I never really done to move on to actually paint the floor. So, I'll also as we mentioned that, for every leader of this particular floor paint, you get 7 meters square. Providing the floor is in good condition, does not too pores, so we expect 7 meters square, a leader of paint. So, what we're doing, in this case, is we're pouring the paint up to 350 milliliers, and then we're going to pour in the hardener and bring it up to 40-50 milliliers. And then the tenor's, we're using 20% tenor's because it's the first coat, and while we're doing it like this is sealer, so it'll sink down into a lot of pore sources, and when we allow that to dry, it'll put a good ground coat for our second coat. Well, we're mixing of our second coat paint, we'll be using 10-15% tenor's. It's very important to store the paint, so allow yourself about 60 seconds or a minute and a half, just to give the paint a good store around, because we want to make sure that the hardener gets well mixed, and the tenor's well mixed in with the paint. When we've done that, we're going to let the paint sit for about 10-15 minutes, let the holo activate, and then we move onto applying it on the floor. The uni mix, the amount of paint you're going to actually use, because as soon as you've activated the paint with the hardener, the paint will only last for about 4-5 hours, so be sure not to mix too much paint, the fresh paint always works better anyway. Here's a very useful tip. What we're going to do here is we're going to cover the paint roll and tray, and allow us then to reuse this tray again a few times after we can even use it if we're using different colors, so let's start the tray and get them destroyed. Okay, it's more mentioned in the stage that we would use a short pile roller, which will give us a good even finish, it's ideal for applying the floor paint. Okay, we're applying our first coat here, we'll apply one even coat to the floor, and then we'll leave it dry for 8 hours, for ideas that dry overnight, and then we'll apply our second coat. Okay, we've finished painting our floor, but give it a two full coats, we've allowed 8 hours between each coat, we've left 24 hours, as you see we're walking on now, it's fully cured. Also, we'll show you how to cover it up with the tray, okay, and I'll show you what. If you have any further questions please contact an advisor at VinnyBorin.com or turn