 This has got the Fixit Guide. Today we have a Kenmore Laundry Center that the washer is not draining and not spinning. So we set it to spin and it turned it on and nothing is happening. So this could be cause and it's also not draining. This could be cause and often it's caused by a bad lidswitch that's going over here to the right. So if you unplug it or turn off the breaker, here's me unplugging it. And we're going to check out a couple of things to see what's going on. So if you set it for spin and it doesn't spin but you can hear some split-kings. Noises and it is draining and that's a motor coupler. If nothing happens, if you're no noise at all and it's usually this thing here called the lidswitch. And then on this model to get to it, we're going to run it through the fuse. They're the ones that are holding out. The lid lock in place. It's already got the power turned off. It is also possible that the timer can malfunction and no matter what spin setting you go to on a dial, none of them are working and that's due to a 30 contact inside the timer. But if you set it for spin and you pull out on a dial and you don't hear anything, it's probably, we're just going to remove these two screws here on this upper panel. It's very about the camera being, it was upside down for a second. And now we're near the back of the lid. There's a couple of screws we have to remove and that's so we can remove the upper panel, the panel that the lids attached to. There's one on the back right and back left. They're hard to see. They're just right over the top panel and we can get to that lidswitch. Behind the lid, we're going to use a little ratchet to get to them. You can also more easily get to these by coming in from the back of the line of your side. But if it's not accessible, you can get from the front just to it's a little bit hard to see. We're going to unscrew those. And once we get them out, we'll be able to slide the whole type assembly out so that we can get to the lid lock. On the other side too. So we got that first one out. We'll be on the left hand side. And the lid lock sometimes they just break in half and you can take a zip lock or zip tie and you can use it to hold the two halves together. So we're going to pull this lid toward us and now there's an electrical modular connector we have to separate right here. Separate those and now you can just pull that whole top panel off. And then underneath it you'll be able to see the lid lock. Flip this over so I'm just playing with it. I hear it clicking and I don't see that the two halves are broken. So this one is probably in good shape. I'm using my continuity tester now. And when I press it, I hear it beeping so I know electricity can flow through it. So I know the switch is actually good. I'm going to move up. I lift on the lid too to make sure that the little pin that pushes down on the switch was a tiny bit. It wasn't broken off. Everything looked good. So I'm rolling out the lid lock. Most common though, probably 70% of the time it's the lid lock. Occasionally it can be the timer. Usually the timer is just dirty. The contacts build up some resistance. So no matter where I turn the dial for a spin on the timer, it's not letting it spin. But I do hear some noise coming from the timer. So I'm going to pull back on these little pins underneath the console to make the upper corners let go so I can open up this console. So I have it unplugged and pull back on these with pliers and then I'll, as I pull down, I'll pull the upper corners out to get the console to release. And it'll hinge toward me. And now I have access to the timer. There's a little pin on the back of the timer. So you want to grab with some needle in those pliers. First you got to make sure that the dial in the front is pushed forward. I'm also going to remove the little electrical connector. So I push up on the tab and grab the modular connector and wiggle it toward me. And then I'll lift up on that pin. The needle in those pliers and just pull that pin. You can pull it part way up or all the way out. And that allows you to pull the knob off the front. And then you're going to grab the dial, pull it towards you. And then there's just one screw on the back here that's holding the timer in place. You get a quarter inch screw here in the corner. So I got that out. I'm going to move the timer to my right. And I can pull the timer out. I'm moving it to the right. Pull the timer out. And then I'm going to use some electrical cleaner to clean the contacts. I'm going to open up the top of the timer just a little bit. In this picture it shows it is fully removed. But I'm just going to move up on the clips and just hinge this upper assembly up by about half an inch and squirt a lot of electrical cleaner in there. And hopefully that will clean up the contacts. So I put it back in. I've wrapped the timer with some tape, electrical tape, just to hold it together. Because I had to remove a couple of pins to get the top off. So got it nice and clean. I'm going to see if there's any difference. I'm just putting it all back in. So I'm going to put the little legs of the timer that are on the left. I'm going to push them in first. Here we can see these little legs or the fingers pointing. So I got those in. And I put the screw back in. I put the modular connector back on. Make sure it's fully seated as far as it will go. You can see the electrical tape that's holding the timer together. So I had to lift up on the part of the modular connectors being plugged into. I had to lift that by about a quarter inch to squirt the cleaner in there. I'm putting the pin back in that holds on the timer knob. And I push the timer knob, and then I'll push down on that pin to lock the timer knob into place. So we got that all back. We're going to put the console back up. And to get it to stay up, I have to pull down with the pliers again on the knob and push in the top. Take your timer. This can be a little tricky. I plug it back in and see if it'll spin. So I can hear it firing up. I can see the water draining out finally. So it was just a dirty contact inside the timer. I opened up the front so you can see it spinning. I can see it spinning here at the bottom. So it's back to normal. So this problem with the timer is a bit rare. And if it happens, you can either clean the timer or replace the timer. Placing the timer is more of a sure bit. You can see it's spinning. These timers usually run about $120, $130 for the new timer. And you just put this back together now. So this is the upper assembly we're going to put back in. We're going to hook the modular electric connector back together. And then we're going to push, there we go, get that connected. And we're going to push the upper assembly in on the little clips on the front. Just take your time there. Keep working with it until it catches and push it in. And if you like the front is locked in, there's one. There's the other. And then there's just the two screws you have to put back on the back of the upper panel to hold it in position. And one on the back left and back right. These are kind of hard to get back in. You just take your time. It's just hard to see what you're doing. I usually use my phone to look in as I'm doing it so I can see it better. If you can get behind the machine, that's even easier. So I put the panel back on the one underneath the dryer, putting the two Phillips screws again. And we have a machine that works again. Spinning, draining. In our case, this time it was due to just a dirty contact on the spin portion of the timer. Here's the model number for this Kenmore Laundry Center. So I hope you get a new timer if you need it. Thanks so much for watching and please subscribe to our channel when you get a chance. Thank you.