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welcome everyone to another tutorial for
the Wonderland Collection this time I'm
going to show you how to make the Vivian
dress with sleeves and 60 style
cuffs the dress has got a concealed zip
at the back and a beautiful collar it's
really for any occasion but I think it's
a very smart dress for going out if you
want to style it a bit more childlike
you can put Taps on and contrast panels
and totally groovy modeling here by
Magdalena for this awesome dress so
let's have a look at it in detail we've
got the Peter Pan collar we've got a
gathered pett coat and everything is
really overlocked so it's quite easy to
do with the side panels I would
recommend a really firm Jersey if you're
using Jersey like myself here and those
beautiful tabs can run from the back
but you could also have them running
from the front at the back we've got a
concealed zip the whole thing is totally
lined and we have only got one piece for
the front and two pieces for the back
for the lining that makes it a lot
easier to put in so let's get
started let's begin by doing something
easy let's make the tabs put the fabric
on top of each other with the right s
side's facing and then we're going to
sew all the way
around lift the presser foot as you
turn and that should give you a really
nice and even shape cut back your seam
allowance turn your tab and then you can
either iron it or you can just put it
straight back under and top Stitch
around the edge making sure that you get
all the edges
out press your tabs and they're prepared
to go onto the
dress next we're going to put the panels
in so put the side panels in my case I'm
using a jersey for it it makes it a
little bit more comfortable although my
jersey was a bit too stretchy for this
put the side panels in and do the same
on the back now the tab here has got
this slant so make sure you put the
right one on and that you leave at least
1 and 1/2 CM from the lower end so that
you can put the skirt on without
catching your
tab then pin the panel over the top all
the way and there we go we're ready to
sew
this so the panel are sewn in with 1 cm
seam allowance make sure that the fabric
is edge to edge and only take your pins
out as you actually go there you can see
here how my fingers hold back jersey
fabric so that you can get it in where
it needs to go then you also do the
shoulder
seams and the shoulder seams on the
lining
too and then you can press the whole lot
the princess seams are always pressed
towards the Body Center and in this case
we're going to press the seams towards
the
back press the seams apart on the lining
as well and then we're going to do a
whole lot of overlocking first of all
all the princess seams front and
back then on the lining the center back
and the side
seams on the sleeve both sides of
course then on the skirt the center back
and the side
seams and we repeat the same on the
lining Center back and side
seams now if you want to you can top
Stitch the pr seams but obviously I just
run out of footage space on my camera so
you carry on doing that and then give
that a press and we swiftly move on to
the collar you need some violene that's
ironon interfacing which goes on the
upper collar so you iron that on first
and we're going to stitch all the way
around we're leaving the neckline
open Lift the presser foot do a few
stitches lift the presser foot again
then move a little bit further the more
experience you have the easier it
becomes and you can actually go around
without doing that but when you're
beginning or you have only little
experience in sewing you should really
do it like that then make sure your
needle is down as you turn to go back up
on the
collar secure your stitches cut back the
seam allowance and then we can turn the
collar move out all the edges really
well and press the
collar now I've done done both my
collars they're ready to go on the dress
later but before I do that I can top
stitch them you don't have to top Stitch
but if you do make sure your Stitch
length is about 3.5 or three don't make
it too small because then you find that
it looks really homemade so a long
Stitch is really important
all the way
around then you pin it from the center
front to the back and you can see
there's about 1 and 1/2 to 2 cm left
standing at the end you want to put a
holding stitch in close to the edge not
a cenm just on the edge and now we're
going to put the lining over the top and
that is being secured around the
neckline so what you want to do is put a
marker pin in here because we're only
sewing and we're leaving those 3 cm at
the end open so pin it neatly all the
way
around in still pinning put another
marker pin
it and now we're sewing all the way
around make sure that everything is nice
nice and flat none of your seam
allowances fold over 1 cm as always all
the way around don't forget we're
stopping early and we're starting
late now I need to snip all the curves
just to make sure that when I turn it we
have no tension you can also snip back
the whole seam if you like to make it a
little bit
Slimmer then we're going to turn it
and we're going to un Stitch to ensure
that our lining can roll out we're
literally stitching the lining onto the
seam allowance with a stitch length of
2.5 about 2 mm from the
seam but make sure you don't sew all the
way to the end of your Stitch line
because then you wouldn't be able to get
into it later when we put the zip in so
make sure you stop there
now we're going to join our side seams
of the shell
Fabric and that's also going to be sewn
together with a seam allowance of 1 cm
so it looks like this and then we press
the
seam now also sew together the seam
allowance of the lining
and that again is 1 cm and I think it's
time for a quick break let's have a cup
of coffee before we come
back and we're back now we're going to
put the skirt together so the Hem trim
needs to be joined you have two very
long bits there and we just join them
with a 1 cm seam allowance just make
sure that you don't see any of the cage
iron the seam apart and then we're also
going to iron this lengthways in
half and now I can put my pleats in you
could gather this but I like just pleats
because pleats are a little bit flatter
and actually it's quite quick to
do and now we're also putting together
the side seams of the lining and the
center back make sure you leave the
center back open to the point that we're
going to put the zip
in and then we can put on our a little
rougher for the
Hem we're not starting at the very
beginning though right sides together
we're going to start a little bit off
the edge because we don't know how much
we're going to need of this stuff and
what we don't need we're just going to
cut
off so right sides
together just sew along 1 cm seam
allowance around the edge when you think
ooh I might not have enough because I've
just put too many pleads in just let out
one plead that's absolutely fine and if
if you have too much just cut it off at
the end so when you get almost to the
end mine actually was exactly enough
that was quite good check where the
fabric needs to go to and then just put
a pin there and then whoosh just sew
this too and then we can cut that back
and overlock it and sew across a little
bit at the end that we've left
open it's very
simple here you can see I've overlocked
it and now I can press the whole thing
and I also want to stitch over the top
just to make it look a little bit more
professional and that again requires a
longer Stitch length so 3.5 or three all
the way
around could put a ribbon on there as
well which would be really pretty now
we're going to put together our actual
skirt so don't forget that the center
back we need to leave a gap as you can
see here not starting at the top I'm
starting where I'm going to put my zip
in and then I also close the side seams
and I press the seams
apart next we're going to put in The
Gather threads the first one is going to
be put in not directly on the edge you
know slightly next to it and then foot
width apart from that
again the next prep step is to overlock
the lower Edge so that we can do the Hem
later it's just easier to do it now and
now we can attach that skirt to the top
so you have to find the center of the
skirt and the center front of the bodice
and then with the right sides facing you
put that on top of each other and gather
from either side until you have the
right amount of gather so that you can
go all the way to the end so place your
seances on top of each other give that
little tuck and when you have got the
right amount you can distribute them
make sure that you leave 1 and 1/2 CM at
the center back because we're going to
put the zip in there and then we on to
pinning our lining as well so same thing
really but then unlike what we've done
on the skirt we're not going to gather
it we're just going to pleat it pleating
is a lot um flatter and therefore the
dress will sit nicer it won't be so
buking because the lining isn't attached
the whole thing will seem a little bit
bigger than it would if it was all in
one
so all these pleads need to face the
body middle so in this case we're going
towards the back and in the front both
sides need to go towards each other
meeting in the
middle and then I'm going to sew it on
and I'm sewing directly in the middle of
my gather threads which should be that
one cm and if you worked really well it
should look something like
this now we're also going to sew the
lining on make sure nothing Falls over
that's why I have vertical pins in here
not the ones that go along because it
makes very good sense like
this I've overlocked my waist line and
the waist line on the actual
dress and now it's time to put in my zip
I have actually got a zip video for this
in the sewing Workshop which is about 20
minutes long as long as this whole video
so if you're not sure I would recommend
that you watch that so with the teeth
facing up you're going to put one side
in but you're only going to put it in on
the edge and only to the opening
here and then you swivel the whole thing
around and you pin it to the other side
the important part here is to line up
very flat at the lower end and then
again line up your waist lines of the
lining and the Shelf
fa as you can see here I've checked it
make sure that the checks are opposite
each other and when they are you can
open up your zip all the way to the end
and you can see here why I prefer a very
long zip because it's it's much easier
to work with put it under the machine
move over your needle as fast you can
and then it just attaches it to the side
and anyone that's put in a concealed zip
before will know that when you have a
proper concealed zipper foot or you use
the zipper foot I'm using here it will
push the zip over and you sometimes end
with a very uneven zip so this is why we
sew it in first make sure that you sew
in from the opening to the top first
then come back down from the top to the
opening that is much much easier because
of course you've got a lot of zip here
to fight with the other way around it is
not as
easy go right to the
opening and then we can just do the zip
up it's actually quite simple but it
does take a bit of practice
next we're going to attach the lining so
the lining here is folded
back and then folded back again and
don't you just love it when everything
else is in focus and what you're showing
in the front isn't so but you can watch
the workshop video if that was not quite
clear enough and then you just sew
across the top and there your zip is
already
in if they don't quite line up from both
sides then you just go in again you
don't need to unpick anything and just
sew it a bit lower I'm now going to pin
my lining to the zip all the way around
and then we're going to slip stitch it
on and I prefer this method really to
doing it by Machine of course you can in
this case you could because it's still
open at the Hem but I prefer it like
this kind of tunneling through with your
slip stitch through that crease and then
pick up a little bit of your zip and
that's it basically
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now we want to attach the arm holes
together just to make sure that they
don't go anywhere and I would recommend
that you sew around it I don't tend to
do that but I also always prick myself
with the pins and that's not pleasant
either so once you've done that you take
your
sleeve and where you've got the snip
that is actually where we're going to
attach the cuff there's my snip it's
towards the back so sew together your
sleeve first 1 cm seam
allowance iron the seam
apart and then you sew down either side
of the cuff press the
cuff and then we we can turn the
sleeve and we just put our cuff on make
sure that we have got the right sides
facing each other if you kind of have
one that's only if you have a pattern
that needs to run downwards so make sure
that if you have a pattern you put it on
right else it doesn't really matter and
then rough sides at the top obviously we
stitching this in always Stitch from the
inside that makes it so much easier
because she can pull the fabric over
like I
do here and that makes life very
easy secure your
Stitch and then we're going to overlock
this as well so make sure that you
remove all your pins because that's you
know death by pin for any
overlocker I usually just grab it and if
I prick myself I know that I still need
to remove a
pin so now we need to just find the
right sleeve to go in the right armhole
and we've got a snip in the front of
each sleeve and that is clearly my left
arm so I'm going through the left
armhole and then I am attaching the
sleeve
seam and the underarm seam and I'm
putting those on top of each other and
either side of those I'm bringing in my
sleeve fairly flat and when I get to the
sleeve head here and I've pinned that
one in I will actually have some
extra that I need to hold in and that's
what I need to do either side of my
sleeve
head that holding in is very important
otherwise you have a very tight sleeve
roll it over check it from the outside
and then you're ready to sew your sleeve
in while I'm here I'm also sewing on my
cover B
buttons um I didn't in the end like the
ones I'd chosen earlier so um I've just
thought nah I'm just going to cover
these and I stitched all the way through
so that they were
secure I also want to do my hem pin it
now so I only have to walk over to the
sewing machine once and that's quite um
important really to cut down all your
movement from one machine to the other
and then I'm going to sew in my sleeve
like this and move it around and if you
find it really hard to get in take a pin
and hold your Fabric in place with a pin
and then kind of push it under the
foot and then all you need to do is
overlock all the way around here as well
so that's nice and clean and you your
dress is finished I hope you enjoyed
this and just a reminder of how pretty
it can look if you choose a nice fabric
so beautifully modeled here by Tina the
Wonderland Collection has many more
items you might want to see here She is
again wearing the Wonderland coat which
you can make with a hoodie or color and
the Wonderland blouse which has got a
Cuma Bond and it's just absolutely cute
you can make it with Jersey sleeves or
woven sleeves options are endless
hope you enjoyed this tutorial and I'll
see you next time bye for now
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