 Hi, this is Wayne with Sirius Parts Direct. Today we're going to talk about what to do when you wash your Wants Spin or drain water. First, let's confirm that your washer is not draining. Set the washer in the spin mode and see what happens. If the water won't drain, turn the machine off, pull the drain hose out of the standpipe, and check for a clog at the end of the hose. Sometimes lint or debris can build up in this area and prevent draining. Then, lower the drain hose into a bucket close to the floor and see if the water drains out of the tub using nothing more than gravity. If water flows freely, then check your house drain for a clog. Get out that plumber snake and try clearing out your house drain pipe. If you didn't see any water coming out of the drain hose, then we'll check the washer drain system. Try using a shot back to suck the clog and the water out of the washer. If that doesn't work, you'll need to bail some water out through the top of the washer and use a shot back to suck out the rest from the tub. Once you get the water out, unblood the washer, disconnect the drain hose from the back and check it for a clog. If the drain hose is clear, turn off the water valves and disconnect the fill hoses from the back of the washer. Then, you can tilt the washer over and check your drain pump. Baby socks and other small items can work their way down there. Just connect the hose and look for small items or debris. Remove the screws, pull the drain pump off and check the area between the pump and the tub for obstruction. Now, if you didn't find the clog and the water drain of the bucket using gravity, chances are you got a bad drain pump. If your drain pump is malfunctioning, it won't push the water out during the normal drain cycle. If the pump runs but won't move water, replace the pump. This video will show you how. Now we'll cover some tips for two common types of top load washers made by Kenmore, Warpool, and MateG. Now, if you bought one of these washers after 2012 and it has a lid lock light, it's likely a BMW washer. If your model is pre-2012, chances are you have a direct drive. If you have a direct drive, click here to skip to that section. First we'll talk about vertical modular washers. The nice thing about VMWs is when it runs into a problem, it'll trigger an error code. The error code points you in the direction of which part has failed. To learn how to check error codes for VMW washers, take a look at this video. Once you have your error code, you'll probably have a better idea of what's going on. If your washer is a draining, you might see error code F7 E5. This code indicates you have a broken shifter, the part that sends the washer into spin and drain modes. If your shifter needs replacing, here's a video that will walk you through that process. Another code you can run into when your washer is not spinning is FZ-Roe E2, which tells you that your washer is oversudzing. Obviously, this condition is a bit easier to spot than a broken shifter. If your washer's full of suds, it can actually prevent it from draining properly. To get rid of this sud, you can add a quarter cup of vegetable oil to the water in the tub, then run a draining spin cycle. Remember to use less soap next time. You really only need about a tablespoon of detergent for loads and H.E. washers. Next, let's talk about some issues that pop up with direct drive washers. The direct drive washer uses a neutral drain process, which runs the drain pump to drain all the water out before the basket starts spinning. The basket won't spin while the washer's draining. When the washer's working correctly, you'll notice the motor pauses after draining all the water. When the motor restarts, the basket spins. Sometimes direct drives can get stuck in the neutral drain process. The tub drains, you can hear the motor running, but the washer won't enter the spin mode. You'll need to replace the timer to correct this condition because the timer controls the motor pauses. Before you buy a timer, let's make sure it's really broken. Start a new wash cycle and allow the washer to fill and agitate for several minutes. This will reset the drive system to conduct the neutral drain process. Move the timer to the start of the spin cycle and pull the start knob. Don't open the lid. You will hear the motor running, but the washer won't be spinning. If the washer pauses after several minutes, then begins to spin the basket, then your timer is probably okay. If the washer continues to drain until the end of the cycle, but never spins the basket, then you'll need to replace the timer. Here's a video that will show you how. Here's a trick so you can keep using your washer until you get a new timer. You can manually pause the motor at the end of the neutral drain process by lifting the washer lid for a few seconds after the washer is empty while the motor is stuck in the draining position. Once you close the lid, the basket should start spinning. You can keep tricking your washer like this till you get around to fixing it. Now, if the motor never runs in the spin mode, but does run in the agitation mode, you could have a bad lid switch. This washer won't spin with the lid open to prevent injuries. If the lid switch is broken, it'll keep the motor from running in the drain and spin mode. Here's how to test the lid switch. Unblock the washer for safety. Remove the console end caps, then remove the hidden screws from the console base. Pull the console slightly forward, then flip it up and back to access the lid switch wire harness plug. Unblock the wire harness and place an insulated piece of wire in the lid switch harness to connect the gray and tan wires going to the timer. Cover the plug with electrical tape so there's no chance of the jumper wire shorting to the metal cabinet. This bypasses the lid switch so the washer thinks that the lid is closed. Plug the bypass harness out of the way and reassemble the console. Plug the washer back in. Set the washer and spin cycle and see if the motor runs. Don't lift the lid with the motor running. The spinning basket inside moves fast enough to call serious injury. The motor won't stop if you lift the lid with a switch bypassed. If the motor runs with the lid switch bypassed, you've confirmed that the lid switch is broken and will need to be replaced. Here's a video that will show you how. Immediately following this test, unplug the washer and restore the lid switch to its original condition by opening the console and removing the insulated jumper wire. Plug the lid switch wire harness back in. Don't leave the lid switch bypassed. If the motor won't run with the lid switch bypassed, you could have a defective timer or you could have a motor wiring problem. You probably want to get a service technician to check that out for you. Hey, thanks for watching. Be sure to check out other videos here on the series parts direct YouTube channel and don't forget to subscribe.