[Music]
so we're going to need a piece of silver
that's about this big so here's the
stone we're going to be using and this
is a piece of 22 gauge silver sheet
metal that we're going to be heading to
make the backing of our pendant so I'm
going to mark on my ax pieces over where
the stone will be and then redraw all of
my original drawing onto it to make sure
everything will fit then I'm gonna draw
a box around it that's about three to
five millimeters away from it so we have
room to work and so we have something to
grab on to when we're cutting after that
he can do slaughter this is what I use
to lubricate the saw blade called CRO
cut and it's a lot better than the oil I
was using before now I'm going to do is
follow the line around it and cut it out
it should take about a minute or so so
I'm going to fast forward if you do not
know how to use a jeweler so I have a
basic video on how to use them alright
and there you go now you have your
backplate this is fine silver Belleville
wire this will hold our stone in place
the reason why you use fine silver is
it's easier to bend and move around and
we're going to need to do a lot of that
to actually set our stone be sure that
your bezel wire is tall enough to hold
your stone in place also make sure the
bezel wire is straight on the end you
can fix this with a file if you need to
so now all you have to do is wrap your
stone with the bezel wire
make sure to start in the middle of one
of the sides can do not part on the
corner it'll make everything harder
later try to make the wire as long as
you can around the stone when you get
all the way back to the beginning of the
wire make sure you overlap it a little
bit so your should look like this and
now you need to mark and cut the wire so
you can solder them together you have to
make sure that they match up evenly make
sure the ends of your bezel are snug
against one another an easy way to do
this is to bend them like this and then
pull them back and they should have
enough force on them to keep one another
together
and now get it ready for soldering I'm
using a third hand use it and make sure
if the flux on them and use a piece of
hard solder and when you are actually
thought ring to make sure each torch on
it for repair a little bit of time until
a solder flows or you'll melt the piece
due to it being so thin once you're done
with that quench your part in some water
and check if you get everything right
make sure everything is lined up
properly and everything is flush and
make sure that they're not picking up
some one anothers once that's done and
everything looks good we go ahead and
put it inside as a pickle pot to take
all the fire scale and everything off of
it now that we have the Belleville
cleaning we can start on the silver
balls for the outside of the Appendix I
like to use this segmented wire it helps
keep the balls that you're going to be
making the same size
oh yes new is cut the same amount of
segments and it should make the same
size every time you can really use any
wire to do this as long as you can cut
it to the right size and the same size
every time you'll end up with the same
size bowl for the twisted wire you can
just buy already made twisted wire or we
do what we're going to do and use 20
gauge sterling silver wire to make our
own and a drill so all you're going to
need to do is take a length of wire fold
it in half and with the two separate and
put them inside of the drill and tighten
it down over it make sure they stay
pretty much right next to one another
once you have that nice and tight your
wire should look something like this so
now you're going to want to tighten up
there u-shape and grab a pair of pliers
to hold it basically any set of pliers
that has a small tip to it will work and
then go ahead and start using the drill
slowly and it will start winding up your
wire you don't want to do this too much
because you can actually break your wire
or make it start twisting in odd ways
that you're not going to want so just go
slow it and you make sure it gets to the
point that you want and go ahead and
stop after you're done with that slowly
release the pressure from the pliers it
might want to turn on you a little bit
just go with it
slowly to make sure there's a whip
around if it's too tightly wound and now
you can take it out of the drill so this
is what yours should look like after
you're done this also works with other
wires but make sure to anneal them
we're doing this and make it a lot
easier so now we're going to get all the
silver balls made for the outside of the
pendant so to do this you're going to
need a charcoal block some flux and of
course it's fork I use the charcoal
block to do this so it leaves a flat
bottom to all of our silver balls so
they don't move around this also makes
them stay on better due to the extra
surface area for the solder to adhere
them to the plate so before doing this
make sure you're in a ventilated area or
have some sort of vacuum sucking all the
fumes away also make sure to wear some
welding goggles to protect your eyes
because it's very bright and it could
damage your eyes now all you have to do
is keep the piece of silver up until it
falls up and as soon as it turns into a
ball remove the heat from it and let it
cool down if you let it cool too much it
will be stuck to your charcoal block and
you'll have to either break it off or
reheat it to get it off once it starts
to dull you'll be able to pick it up
with some tweezers and you can quench it
in some water and here's what it should
look like when it's done if it has any
bubbles or holes make sure to remelt it
after the first of all you make make
sure that it's just brown the five that
you're looking for for one of the balls
on your piece and then you can scale up
and down in how much material you use
this way you know exactly how much to
use to make each size and then make sure
to write it down so you don't forget so
now you need to make rest of the bulb
and this first of all needs to be a
little bit bigger could be the biggest
ones I needed so I added one more piece
of the segmented silver wire if you're
using just great normal wire you're
going to have to play with it until you
figure out a link and then add equal
lengths to make sure they same thing
every time so now that you have all the
balls done you're going to want to mock
them up on your picture with your stoned
see if everything fits how you want it
to so now we need to pick a lot of our
parts so a good way to do this is with a
coffee filter or a paper towel it keeps
all your small parts together but it'll
still get them all clean and it makes it
so you don't have to fish around and fly
pot or lose any of them so just make
sure it's pump up pretty good and drop
it in the pickle pot and it should take
about 30 minutes or so
putting everything up in the meantime
let's check on our bezel and make sure
that they're shown and make sure it
cleaned up properly so here it is and it
looks pretty good and clean it has
misshapen a little bit which is
perfectly normal and once you put your
sewing inside of it it should go back to
how it was so if it doesn't fit your
stone make sure that it's facing the
right direction that you made it in and
if your stone is a weird shape or not
perfectly square make sure you line up
everything properly
it still doesn't fit after that you can
take away some metal from the inside of
the bezel but with Health in of a bezel
I have it probably wouldn't be a good
idea other than that you'd have to make
a new one now we need to take the
twisted wire and shape it into the right
shapes and cut it to the right sizes so
now you're going to want the wire that
you made or the wire you're going to use
and your picture reference now I'm going
to make it so my wire will Bend along
with my stone so if you're using an oval
stone and you're doing segmented pieces
of wire probably going to want to
actually pick up through the stone and
bend it along with it makes it a lot
easier mine are pretty much straight
with a little bit of a bend so I can do
it on paper I also suggest having all
your parts already on here and done
before doing this Barbie you can fill in
the gap and not every piece of this will
be exactly the same size because the
balls would form a little bit bigger or
smaller or the Imagi to space a little
bit weird so make sure everything is on
here first I'm just going to eyeball it
from now but I'm going to go back and
fix everything now we're going to make
this bin for the top make sure you have
something round and metal a flipped
around to help shape the first part of
this I'm going to use a little bit more
wire than I know I need so I have
something to work with and it gives me a
little bit extra to leverage it around
this alright make sure to check it
against your reference picture to see if
they Bend is a right angle that you want
and if it is grab a pair of pliers and
pinch it right at the point where it
turns again like in mind that way you
can bend it to match the picture once
you have that done in to your liking
make sure to flip it over and do the
other side also this is why I use more
wire than I needed it makes it so you
can actually pin
peace without burning your fingers or
using another set of pliers once you
have all the bins and everything to your
liking with all your adjustments done go
ahead and cut it make sure to cut it as
even as possible we might have to go
back later and cut it again to fit
everything but for now make it even now
I'm just going to mock up some of the
wire to make sure it's fitting right and
looks proper so here's the closest of
the bezel and the wires I just made to
show you how everything's fitting
together so far so here's everything
that I have made so far and as you can
see this piece of wire is way too big
for any of this so I'm going to take a
pair of calipers and measure it and then
Mark the piece cut it and fit it in
place when doing this far be very
careful because if you nudge anything
you could move everything out of place
and then you have to reset up everything
so this could be kind of tedious
sometimes and here's everything all
together for the pendant everything's in
place and this is how it will all be
soldered together this is a tripod and
screen soldering setup you're going to
need to solder your piece on the bottom
so this will help also you can use a
third hand if you do not have one of
these and this is how you would want to
position it with the third hand you make
it as flat as possible so nothing can
slide off it's a little harder but you
can use this but anyways back to the
tripod and screen setup I'm going to
flux the piece of silver that I cut out
for the backing on front and back
this will help all the solder flow
because we're going to need that to
happen over a large area it will also
keep all of the pieces stuck to it when
we're putting everything together now
once you have all this done you can
actually start putting your pieces on to
it make sure all your parts are clean
and have flux on them and then go ahead
and start assembling your piece in some
of the tighter areas or the areas that
look like you won't be able to get your
solder on the outside edges of you can
actually put it underneath some of the
pieces like the larger balls or some of
the wire itself make sure it's a really
thin piece of solder but it will help
guarantee everything will be stuck down
the first time you use this so you don't
go back and restore things so opposite I
like to make a little puddle of flux so
I can put my solder pieces into it so
they are fluxed also just makes it
easier for me so this might be one of
the most tedious parts of all of this is
actually setting the little tiny pieces
of solder all around your piece
and inside of it you will accidentally
move things you will have to put things
back it can be frustrating if you do get
frustrated just put it down walk away
from it for a little bit if your flux
dries out in that time you can add a
little bit of water to the area so you
get everything moving again my rule of
thumb is replacing solder is every
corner of the bezel inside and then
every wall has a piece of solder and
then all around the outside every
individual piece gets its own piece of
solder and if it is a longer piece like
the wires they get one or two pieces on
top of that so after all that and all
your pieces are set and everything is
exactly where you want it but all of
your flux dry out so you don't have
problem with everything moving around
from water evaporating and we can
finally actually solder this together so
now we need to heat this whole piece
from the bottom and tell all the solder
flows under everything and through
everywhere physically and fix it down so
to do this you take your torch even if
you have just a propane $20 torch this
will work it just takes a little bit
more time you're going to want to
feather the heat onto it and moving it
on and off of it a lot just to get it
heated up so your flux will start to
move a little bit and you don't want
everything to move all at once and
that's what your piece you want to have
some tweezers handy or a solder pick
just in case I can move you can push it
back but still see them very slowly at
first or you're not going to have a good
time with it
make sure you evenly keep the whole
piece and when the flux arts doing this
make sure you do not spend any same slot
for too long or you will actually
started melting parts of it you can melt
edges you can melt the back and melt a
hole through it so just be careful but
once it looks like almost all your
fluxes disappeared and your solder will
might turn black a might not depends on
what you're using you'll start to see
your solder glowing and this is right
before everything is about to start
flowing so keep on you evenly eating it
and you'll be able to see when stuff is
starting to flow once that happens keep
the torch on it for a couple seconds
it's that and still flow through
everything and then take the heat off of
that one part
just keep going around install your
solder has melted you can go on top your
piece to help melt some of the harder
solder pieces that are just not blowing
but you do run the risk of melting any
of the little parts or your bezel that's
on top of this and you would pretty much
have to scrap the entire thing so only
do this if you really think this is
going to help if not you can always
clean the whole piece off reflux
everything and put a new piece of solder
on and do this again a lot safer I'm not
going to be cutting or supporting any of
the soldering parts it's really
important to see how little you have to
keep the flame on and how much I move
around to make sure nothing to melt you
also tell things have thought her down
if they start glowing with the bottom
plate if you look at the balls on here
some of them will be a darker color and
other ones will be the same brightness
as the plate that means that one is
actually been soldered to it once you're
done soldering let's a piece cool down
you can do this by just leaving it on
the screen or you can take it and put it
on say a ceramic plate or a large piece
of metal and it will help it cool down
faster
you're not squinch it because you can
warp the beef depending on how hot it is
as we wait for our pendant is to cool
down let's get started on designing a
copy so we already have it drawn up but
this is just the front we need to fold
this over so you're going to have to
redraw it real quick and add about two
to three millimeters to it and it should
look a little something like this
once we get that done we can start
bending our wire to match our drawing
the rest of this process is about the
same as making the pendant part so a lot
of this I'm going to fast forward
through but utility to watch out for
things not soldering properly or fully
so we're going to solder it the same way
we gave the pendant I did have to go
back after doing this and click two more
Tata points right at the widest part of
this because it did not sought her down
and when I started to bend it I realized
it started moving on me and it wouldn't
work right if I did that so I had a
success so after that we can now cut it
out from the backing plate and we'll
have our piece and then we'll start
shaping it after that to shape this
piece is pretty easy all you need is two
sets of flat pliers with wide mouth
would be best and you put them on either
side leaving a gap in the middle and
slowly start bending it to exactly how
you want it make sure to check on it
every so often and make sure nothing is
coming unsoldered or bingeing weird and
make sure it's spending uniformly all
the way across they're going to want to
bring both points pretty close to one
another but still leave a gap we're
going to be soldering in a small piece
of wire here that will make it so the
pendant to move back and forth while
this is on it so check your piece to
make sure everything looks right and
everything is soldered down properly
you've got to keep checking your solder
points on stuff like this especially if
you're doing this for the first time or
going back to it after a long time then
lock it up with your appendage and see
if it fits properly if it doesn't fit
you can still open it up for close it
more depending if it's too loose we're
still going to have to open and close it
again anyways because we're going to be
soldering that piece in make sure to
pickle your piece before soldering it if
you don't this isn't going to work very
well so now we're going to use a piece
of wire this will depend on how big your
pieces so ill vary but peace I'm using
is 1.3 millimeters thick and I'm just
going to play around the size until I
find something that's good for this but
you can measure your piece and how much
clearance you want and do all that one
other thing to do is to make sure that
your piece is completely flat and when
you're putting in here so when you
solder it in it's straight up and down
to do this you can use the same flat
pliers that I use normally put the piece
into it and then use a file on it and it
should come out perfectly flat welcome
to some more super tedious soldering
work so with this you're going to want
to make sure it's Center
at the very bottom and make sure it
doesn't fall over make sure you use
float and use a medium or easy solder
because you've already thought of this
with hard Sutter just like last time
when we're offering make sure you heat
it up very slowly so it doesn't jump
around a bunch and just keep your heat
moving around everywhere until the
solder starts to flow focus on that one
point for about a second and then move
away from it or you will melt the little
tiny piece of wire
so here's the finished product if it is
bent to either side you can always move
it back with a pair of chain nose pliers
all right now we're going to get our
pendant cut out and make sure to drill a
hole in the top of the pendant where
your hanger is going to go through so
you can actually cut inside of it also
if you're using a stone that you want
light to go through you can draw a
design inside of the bezel part and cut
out the back part of the place and it
will let light through our stone does
look very nice with light going through
it so I'm leaving it completely solid
when cutting on your pendant you can do
two things you can either get as close
as possible if you're confident in your
cutting skills or you can leave a little
bit of a gap and then come back and sand
it down or file it down later so here's
the pendant all cut out I still need to
clean up some of the parts inside of the
bezel so our stone fits and I need to
clean up the outside with the rotary
tool also to just clean up some of the
saw mark test fit your stone get a piece
of dental floss or thread the ready can
brake and it actually did on me so I
would go with dental floss over it put
it underneath your phone and then you
could push it into place if you don't do
this you won't be able get your stone
back out usually but with all that said
all I need to do now is attach the top
piece clean it up a little bit more and
actually set the stone in place and buff
it and clean it to clean up the inside
and outside I use a rotary tool that is
made from rubber and diamond and
basically it just it's like sandpaper
but works way faster so now it's time to
set our stone this style of bezel is
very difficult to get right and to make
it look good and if I was to show you
the full amount it would add another 40
minutes on to this video just from
setting it so I'm going to fast forward
and make a different video with a
smaller stone to show you what's you and
how to do it so enjoy the next ten
minutes of me setting this stone and
fast forward for about seven seconds
to get a top piece on all you're going
to need to do is open it up just enough
to get over your appendage piece put it
through it and then push it back down
with suppliers again make sure it's
pretty tight here if you didn't set your
stone already and want to do this first
you can do this and then solder the
piece so it can never open up again so
here it is after buffing it with some
Rouge it's still taking the Rouge
compound and we need to go clean it off
but after that everything should be nice
and shiny and I'm going to patina the
whole thing and then buff it again that
way it leaves black in all the cracks
and creases assists and gives it a more
Victorian look to it I also like how it
makes every detail stand out one really
good way to get all this off is to use a
sonic jewelry cleaner you can get them
for free cheap around 30 bucks and it
saves you so much time
and makes everything come off so much
easier all you need is hot water and
some sort of decreasing soap so after
all that from this drawing to this piece
of jewelry I hope you liked the video
and I hope you learned at least a little
bit about how something like this is
made this video took a long time to
actually shoot took about three
different days of me working on it and
then even longer for me to add every
single piece together and make sure
everything made sense so let me know if
you guys have any suggestions for future
videos and I'm thinking about making
some sort of vlog so I can communicate
better and actually answer questions and
stuff like that so we'll see leave a
comment if you have any suggestions on
that until then I guess check out my
other videos on how to use a jewelers
saw and how to make a basic ring and I
will see you guys later yes