 Hey, my name's Anthony. Today I'm demonstrating chisel sharpening and chisel care and maintaining. So let's get into it. First up, let's go over here to the grinding bench. So here we've gotten a dry grind. I've got my wet grinder here, which I've only just recently purchased. Obviously, if you've got the money and you want to invest in one of these, they are brilliant. Purposely got it for sharpening all my planar blades and joinar blades, things like that. I still do mechisels over it just because it's a cold grind, a wet grind. This is your dry grind. And best bit of advice I can give for one of these is when you purchase one, you're going to get a stone like this. And it's quite a fine stone or grinding wheel. Sorry. You basically want to take it off, turn it and go to any local hardware store and get yourself a the courses grinding wheel available. And the reason for that is it's going to remove a lot more material quicker, but it's not going to burn your blade as quickly. Anyway, near as quickly as what this will. Because obviously it's spinning fast, it's fine. It's going to heat up the friction, it's just going to heat up your steel, your blade a lot more. And it's going to cause you to burn the tip of your chisel, which is a pain in the ass, especially when you're learning, because you're basically going to have to grind that burnt section away. And and keep sharpening until you get that black away because otherwise you sharpen it doesn't matter what you do. As soon as you tap it on that wood, it's just going to fold over and it's going to be. It's going to shit you. So by going this way, you don't need a powerful grind stone. I mean, this one I think back then it cost me $180. I got the buffing wheels and attachment. The stone might have been $60 something like that might have been cheaper. It was long time ago, I can't quite remember. And one of these bench, ventress for your chisels, because the one that comes with your grinder is arse. So get yourself a good aftermarket or any aftermarket or a good quality one. It doesn't really matter. I wanted to serve one purpose. As you can see, I've used this one quite a lot and I've had it for quite a few years. If you're going to look at going down the wet grind, this set up here, just a unit on its own, cost me $650. And then I've got, there was a couple of attachments that came with it and it was for re-facing the stone. With a diamond tip, it was $150 and to get the attachment for the sharpener planer blades. That was like $230, it was ridiculous. But I've basically three sharpens and I've made my money back. So there's no complaints. But right now I'll show you what I'm made with this grinder. Before I start, always handy. Still make sure that you've got a bucket of water. Coal water next to you. And the benefit that you've got, which I'll just show you now, because obviously the grinder makes some noise, is you dip your chisel in and your chisel is going to have some water residue on it. And what happens is when this gets really hot, that'll start to bubble and fizz and then you know that you need to cool it down again. When I'm grinding, I've got a finger on a knife just to hold it in position and then a finger above. And basically you're just moving both of them at the same time just to get a consistent and even grind. So the other thing to factor in is you want to make sure that this is as plumb as you can get it or as flat as you can get it. You don't really want to curve run through it or a concave run through it. You want it to be flat. You'll know that it's flat because your chisel is going to feel it when you're actually cutting it. And you're going to see that it's actually grinding a good surface area. So we'll make it start. So just a couple of things for your information that I was just thinking I probably didn't mention. When I was at the grinding wheel, when you're new to this or experienced it doesn't really matter. There's no shame to it. You really need to keep that edge nice and square. And the only way to do that is with a good square. So whether it's a square like this, one you made out of timber or a combination square, it doesn't really matter. It's just to get that as a reference point and to make sure that it's it reminds square. So which is going to be handy for when you're doing joints and you can use your chisel as a reference point to actually see if you're shoulder square or your dovetails are square. The other thing that I want to mention is normally when I grind these, I don't actually grind them down to a sharp point on the actual grinder. I would normally leave a good half a mill. So I can still say that polished edge and the reason why I do that is one. It pretty much eliminates any issues I have of burning my blades. And number two, the grinder's not there to actually give you a sharp edge. It's there to remove material. And that's where the stones come in and a lot of time and emphasis is spent on the bench on your stones. Just quickly show you for flattening. Which obviously because this is one that's well maintained, if it wasn't well maintained, you'd actually there'd be a ring around here where the diamond plate is touching the stone and then it would just come to a point where it's nice and flat. So the other thing that I use this for basically just because of the part of the process of this type of sharpen. This is a, obviously it's done in a grindstone, it's a hollow grind, it's not a flat grind. So what we essentially need to do is build the material up behind where that edge is going to be held. So we're going to put a secondary bevel or as my mentor described it to me, we're just going to bevel back this cutting edge. But we can't just do it like a micro bevel where that's brilliant. If this is a flat grind or even if you were sitting on your stone and you were getting that making that so it was dead flat and then you would put that half a mill or one mill micro bevel on. Because it's got enough meat behind it to stay to help hold its edge where with this method it's actually just a quicker method for sharpening. So just to start it once you've done a grind, you've got to do a couple of things and then after that maintaining it, honestly you'd be lucky if I was grinding white chisels once a year. It might even be once every year and a half to it's, I've had these for 17 years and you can see the blades on them are still long. So this is just a part of the process that I do for sharpening my chisels. So I normally, because this is very fine, I was using the combination stone, it wouldn't be an issue but because it's very fine it takes a long, long time to get that edge on. So I start with my diamond plate and all I do is fingers where the blade is and you just hold it in your hand and lock your wrist. That's a big thing is you don't want to keep your wrist floppy, you actually want to lock your wrist to that angle and you put your heel and toe of the chisel bevel on the stone. Raise it ever so slightly and back with the forwards. She's a bit of a hot day today so the water's drying up relatively quick. So and obviously you can see I don't have a a honing guide. So what I recommend to anybody that's new to this or even if you're experienced and you want to give it a crack, I would just pop it on, raise it ever so slightly. Go up and down a couple of times and then just reset and do it again. And then obviously once you gain more experience and you become more confident with your tools, you're going to be able to do it quite long up. And the only other thing to consider because you can see I do keep on looking at the edge of the bevel. You just want to keep that line there consistent because then that way you know that if it's if one side is wider than the other, you're basically angling that square edge back and you really don't you want to keep that as square as possible. So I'm actually quite happy with that. I've got a couple of mill on it. So now we'll go to the stone. And again, you put the back you choose the line first and bring it across. You don't want to go this way down because you'll actually roll this edge over. And I don't like to, I personally don't like to do it this way just because you will actually do this with your chisel and when you use a wider chisel, you won't as much but when you get down your six mill or your quarter of an inch chisel, you'll actually roll it. So I do like to keep it on a 45 or a 60 degree. It doesn't matter what angle it is. It's just keep it on an angle. I have two fingers underneath that just support not doing anything else. And the pressure is basically at the front of the chisel and a little bit here at the back. And what you'll find, I mean this is a lap chisel so it's not something that I really need to concern myself in going nuts on the back of the blade. Now, for the front, it's just basically the same thing. So hold the chisel on an angle to your stone. Raise it, raise your heel ever so slightly. And just backwards and forwards. And because this is a finishing stone, this is where I do tend to go nuts and really polish that sharpening edge up. Remove any scratch marks that might be there from the corsa stone. And even you'll find that to take it off as well, you actually drop it from the back. Don't raise it from the front unless you're going to slide it across. It's very important that this section stays as flat as possible. Now the next thing that I'll just a little thing I picked up because I don't own a leather strap. And this is as effective as having a strap because obviously this is a very fine stone. And I did do the same thing with my combination. So to get that feathering off, which is also that they basically marry up nicely, this is all I do. So from there, you've got your heel and toe on. You want to raise it ever so slightly and you want to put no pressure on it at all. So I tend to just go to be one. And each time that you're coming up, you just want to raise it just a little bit more. So then you get to a point when you've done it long enough, you will actually be able to tell the difference when both edges are marrying up or not. But the best way to explain it is do it the first time and just always go back as a reference and just feel the edge. It'll come to a point where you'll actually feel the difference in that edge band so sharp. So then yeah, after that, that's pretty much it. OK, and this is the bit that everybody likes to look at, see how well the chisel holds an edge. So hopefully you enjoyed watching my video on how to sharpen chisels. If you liked it, please go ahead and hit the like button that'll really help me out. And if you do have any questions in regards to how I do this sharpen, maybe there was something that I left out that you would like or maybe I was a little bit vague on and you'd like a little bit more information. Please leave a comment and I will get back to you. And finally, please feel free to subscribe to my channel as I will have more helpful useful tips and tricks alongside with some pretty awesome builds that I've got set out for this year. So thanks for watching and I'll catch you next time.