 Hey everyone, Dave here with DavidsPastor.com. Today we're waterproofing stuff. Stick around. So if you've been following my channel for any amount of time, over the last year, especially, I've been carrying around this. This is a Havversack, my buddy, Jaiha, custom made for me. I absolutely love this thing. And over the last year, it's kind of gotten a little bit more flexible than I like. And I want to make sure it's nice and waterproof before I head out on the river. So what I thought I'd do is I'm going to make up some solution that I'm going to use for this, not only this, but I'm going to waterproof all of my leather goods and some cotton goods with it. And so I thought I'd show you what I'm going to do to do it. And hopefully maybe you can make some for yourself and wax waterproof all your stuff. So here we go. So to do this, you're only going to need a few ingredients. First of all, you're going to need either beeswax or paraffin wax. You're also going to need some turpentine and some boiled linseed oil. And I'll put links in the description if you want to pick some of these up on Amazon to help support the channel. As far as beeswax versus paraffin, to be honest with you, I don't know the, you know, I don't know that there's a huge difference. A lot of the recipes have been researching. Go either way with it. If paraffin's cheaper for you, go for it. If you can get ahold of some beeswax, go for it. Again, I'll put a link in the description where you can pick some up. So the recipe calls for two parts wax, hard wax, the beeswax of the paraffin, to one part turpentine, to one part boiled linseed oil. So the first step in the process is to take the beeswax and sort of cut it up in order to make it a lot easier to render down. Let's go ahead and do that. Before we get started in the actual cooking process, I do want to say this is sort of a disclaimer. It's very suggested that you do this outside and away from open flames because obviously we have some flammable ingredients here. Having said that, I'm in a very well ventilated room and as you can see that is not an open flame source. So very well ventilated. I would highly suggest you do this outside if you can, if it's all possible. To get started, what I'm going to do is I'm actually just going to add some water to this pan. What I'm going to do is I'm actually going to double boil the wax or I guess in a sense, you know, use it as a double boiler so that I don't burn the wax. Go ahead and add some more water here. Just enough so I can get, you know, I can melt the wax without burning it. While that's going, I'm just going to take my wax and begin to chop it up. The other thing you're going to need for this, you're going to need a container to put it all in when you're done. And I'm just going to use a couple of small bread pans. As I get some of these shavings, I'm going to start to add it to the pan there. Is that that water under there is warming up? So I'm going to let that render down and turn it into a liquid before I do anything else. This little process probably takes about an hour, you know, between cracking up the wax, melting it down, adding your solutions. All right, so now that all of my wax is completely melted, I'm going to take this heat and reduce it down all the way to low because now is when I'm going to start adding in, you know, the chemicals. I just want to keep this liquefied. And the first one I'm going to add is the boiled linseed oil. I did half a pound, so I want to do four ounces of boiled linseed oil. And then I'm just going to kind of gradually just sort of stir it in. Now, I've reduced my heat quite a bit. You can see it's kind of getting darker there. Everything's nice and mixed up there. I actually shut this off. It looks like it's going to stay warm enough for me. I'm going to now I'm going to add my turpentine. Be very careful not to splash it. Oh, that smells really good. I like to smell the turpentine. My crazy probably, but this kind of thins it out a little bit more. Just about a half cup there. Again, be very careful. Just going to stir that into the mixture as well. So now that I'm done melting and rendering this, just to sort of help this solidify just a little bit faster. I'm going to actually remove this pan from the heat. Go ahead and transfer it to another surface. And I'm just going to keep stirring this. I'm not going to stir it until it cools all the way down. I just want to make sure everything is nice and mixed up in there. So I'm just stirring for quite a while. I'm happy with sort of viscosity, if you will. And I'm going to go ahead and pour it into my containers. Pour my solution in. Now I'm going to go ahead and let that set overnight. And we'll get back with you in the morning. All right. Now the next morning and here are my two batches solidified. So let me show you how you use it. What I'll just do is I'll take my wax that I've made. Get a good build up on that brush. You just sort of go around and give a nice layer of that wax right on there. Just going to spread that wax out nice and thin. Nice and even I should say. I like to pay a special attention to the seams. Make sure the wax gets in those seams really good. This is my ax sleeve here. I'll even go right on the leather. So the last thing I'm going to do here before I hang it up to dry, I'm going to let it, I'm going to hang it up to dry for a few several days so that those oils can dry and stiffen up a bit. I'm just going to take a hair dryer and begin to go over it and melt that wax right into the fibers of the tack. All right, so welcome back. Just for a point of reference, I'm actually finishing this video up five months after I initially waterproofed it. I know you're not going to see that on video, but after shooting the first part of this video, I went on Canoe trips, kayak trips, I've been hiking with it. I wanted to do it like this because I wanted to show you just how cool this waterproofing solution is. So the ultimate test obviously is to get it wet. So ready to go. I'm just going to put it in this bucket so I don't make a mess, but just so that you can see what happens with the water. Sheds right off, beads up on there, even several months later, the water just glides right off that waterproofing solution. So this is a method that you can use on any kind of cotton fabric works great on the duck cloth that my haversacks made out of. I've used it to waterproof little ditty bags that I've made and things like that. I've even used it to waterproof my frost river pack or to just sort of add that extra layer of protection to keep it waterproof. So I guess what I'd like to know is if you have a DIY waterproofing recipe that you'd like to share, please leave it in the comments below. You know, and that's better than that one. Who knows, but I'd love to hear from you guys and I'd love to hear your thoughts on it or even if you've used something like this, what you've used it on, what kinds of projects have you used it on, and what kinds of gear you've used it on to keep it waterproof. Like I said before, it's been four or five months since I originally waterproofed this and it's still doing a really good job. So something you only have to do probably once a year depending on how much you get out and about. Anyways, thank you guys so much for tagging along in this video. If you liked the video, definitely give it a thumbs up below. I'd love it if you comment and subscribe. If you haven't done so yet, connect with me on one of my social accounts. I'd love to connect with you guys and hear from you guys. And as always, we'll see you in the next video or we'll see you outdoors. Take care.