 This video is presented by Sailrite. In this video we'll be showing you how to make a standard baton pocket. This is the way that Sailrite recommends to make any standard baton pocket. The first thing to do to make a standard baton pocket is to measure the length of the baton. For this sail we'll be using the Rekmar Plastream Sailbatons. These ABS plastic batons are unbreakable, though the most popular batons worldwide. The ABS stream sailbatons are easy to cut and file to the perfect size. Unlike fiberglass batons, these Rekmar Plastream batons will not splinter your fingers or your sail and do not require in caps. After each one of your batons are measured, to determine the appropriate taped length for your pocket, double the baton length and add 4 inches. This is the taped length. Here's the example for our sail. You have batons that are 27 inch. You're going to want to take 27 inch and multiply that times two. And then you also want to add on 4 inches. That's going to be for the ends that fold over. So you have 54 inches and we're going to add another 4 inches under that so you want 58 inches of tape. So we're going to come down here and measure so that we have 58 inches of tape. For this particular sail, it requires a 5-8 inch wide baton. So we're going to be using a 2 inch wide tape for our sail. Yours may be wider. Okay, and then we're going to put a half inch hem on one end. And you can do that by just simply holding it up here. Okay, and we'll fold that over. And the other end, we're going to do the same thing, start off with a half inch hem. And then once that hem is folded over, then you take it and you fold it over one inch. Okay, so then that kind of forms that. And then we're going to sew down this little half inch on both ends. And you bring the other end up to it so that they are right snug together. And then just walk down your tape and crease it in the center. Okay, then we're going to mark right in the center for our piece of elastic. It's cut 3 inches. One, two, three. Okay, so we're going to go inside the tape and you want to mark from the crease out. You want to mark it at 3 inches. And I always mark it on the inside of it. Come back over here and mark 3 inches out this way. Now that will happen when we sew it in, then we'll cause this to fold up like so. And then you've got your stretching to push your bat and end left and come back. And that's what's going to hold it. Okay, so we're going to sew that in at our 3 inch marks. Okay, so you just lay your elastic. You can visually center it in the middle because you're going to have to sew on both sides of that elastic when you put it to the side. Debtment to say that. You bring that up to your 3 inch mark. You want to do a few back. We're using the Sailrite Professional sewing machine with a 4 point stitch. You'll notice that each zig has 3 stitches. You can easily use a standard 2.6x sewing machine stitch as well. Either one will work fine. And then what I do is just bring it over this way. I'll thread it out of the way here. Just kind of hold it together here. You see your other line and bring it to that line. Hold it there. And then it pretty much will hold itself in the center if you bring your tapes together at the edges. And you just do the same thing on this end. Follow the same way. Back cast. Stick it at both edges of the elastic to hold it tight. Okay, and then there we have it. And like a swing inside. And then this is your center fold here. Okay, and then we want to sew a little half inch down. And you might want to do some back stitches at the beginning and end of this also. That always helps the whole stitch. As stated earlier, you don't need a 4 point machine like this or a 3 step machine. You can do it with a standard 2.6x sewing machine. Make sure you don't have that down because we don't want that sewing shut. Just only on the half inch. I'm going to do the same here and take a few back stitches. And then you're done. Okay, now I like to tape on the long side. That way everything's got to place the stick down at. So you just start your seam stick at the end. And run it as close as the edge without going out because you want to have as much pocket room as possible. And then I like to go all the way up to the fold. And then I like to go all the way up to the fold. Just put it on the fold. Same thing with the other side. Okay, now I'm just taking a few stick paper. I like to pull it down past the elastic here. Then you want to pull it forward and pinch it at the center fold. And then I just start sticking it down. And I like to hold the elastic here and then push down out of it because that helps it to lay a little bit flatter for you. When you're sewing, it keeps it back away. It just lays flatter and that way you've got more access inside the pocket at that point too for your batting. It's not real crucial. It's just a little thing I have. When you come up here with your foot a lot of times part of your foot is going to be up on here. So you might want to narrow your stitches down to be sure that you don't get into the elastic when you're sewing it down. Then you just take this stick right down. You've got an edge as even. Same with the other side. And then with this one also. Okay, and then you flip the whole thing over and then run two strips of your basic tape down the back. And you want to go the whole width of it. Go the whole length of it. I'm sorry, I'm not the whole width, but the whole length of it so that you've got a little bit of tacky spot to hold it while you're working on the rest of it. So a lot of times you'll have to jump up over top when you're sewing it down. If you have a leech line that's running through, then you have to do some tacks. And I usually go across here and tack a little bit and then you have to push your leech line back out of the way and then you just jump over it and then you just tack the end of it. The sail that we're going to put it down, I don't have a leech line in so I don't need to do that. But I just thought I'd explain that that's how I do with the leech line running through here. Say you want to push your leech line up because normally it's at the edge of your sail so you want to push it up here. So down to it, jump over and then tack it down here at the edge of the sail and then the same way here. That way you're not getting your leech line into it at all and your baton pockets anchor down. Okay, now in your sail you'll have two marks. Now we've put a circle of insignia here where our baton pocket ends up. And we just do that in our loft. If you would like to do that you may but it's not included in anything as a kit. Just so you know that. And we've got a two inch tape here. So what I like to do is come right down here to the center of this. And I like to mark where it should end up just a little bit outside of the two inches so that when you go to put it on, you know right where you're doing it and you're getting it centered. And then also in the center of this, I just kind of get a center here and then come back up. This is a computer design sail and you can see these marks for the baton placement have been plotted onto the material. So it's going to go in just off there. I'm going to blend it up with here. Because it's a computer design sail, we're putting the baton pockets on before we sew the entire sail together. That makes it easier. You can get one side started slightly. I like to bend it back. See what my center is at here. Okay, and then the part that's up here, you notice we have two angles coming in. So your baton pockets are not going to sit flat. Like it would be like up at this line, you could put it right fronted up because we're going to have a double hem here. So this will be the actual edge of your sail. So then what we'll do here is bring it up to the line. Now, when you have two different angles coming in like this, you want to bring it up here to the edge. And if you put one of the edges on and the other one's hanging off, what you want to do is sometimes there are extreme more than this. And you just back it off so that you're kind of 50-50, hanging off of the edge of the sail and then in behind the edge finished here. And then you come up and just stick it down. This sail requires a double hem at the leech. Yours may not. So you need to position the baton pocket according to what your sail calls for. And you can hold it to your lines down here, pulling this down. And then you can see between. And then you can see here where it's just above. Just below the line here and just above the line on that side. Okay. All right. Now, we're going to go ahead and I'm going to sew down the two sides of this. But then I'm going to stop when I get down to this point because I've got to come back in once I get my sail together, make my hem. But it's a whole lot easier if you can put this on before you can sew the majority of this down before you put your sail together. Because then you don't have to sail that you're fighting on. If it happens to fall where you can do that, they don't all. So I'm going to fall along the seams and touch. So, get that down. Like so. Notice here that Deb is peeling the baton pocket back up because she saw a little bit of bubble. That's the beauty of using the double-sided seamstick. You can always rebase to the heat. Like I said, I narrowed my stitch down just a little bit because when you get up here to this elastic area, it wants to get real narrow here. And you don't want to catch your elastic or it's not going to let your baton pocket push in. We're using the Sailrite professional long arm machine, but if you scroll the fabric up as Deb is doing here, you can obviously use the Sailrite Ultrafeed machine just as well or even a standard home-swing machine. And we want to do some tack at the very end. Okay. As we mentioned previously, sewing the baton pockets on, corner patches, and even reef point patches, intermediate reef point patches, can be done easily with the computer design sail like this. All of Sailrite's sail kits are computer designed so you can build these assemblies together prior to sewing the entire sail together. It makes it a lot easier because you don't have to handle a huge sail when you're sewing these components on. So, we're doing this baton pocket on top of one panel. After components like baton pockets, intermediate reef points, and even the corner patches are done, then we'll assemble the entire sail together as a whole. Okay, now when it comes down here, we're going to go ahead and what I like to do is go ahead and go over where the folds are here, just slightly over that. You're going to need enough room to do your double hem, like I was saying that's here, is going to go over there. So you know you can go at least to the stitches and it's not going to interfere with your hemming and edge. So we'll just keep sewing on and go over that little bit, do a couple of back stitches. Okay. And then that way we can come back once the hem is done, and tuck it underneath of here. We can come back down and finish sewing that down. But the majority of it, the bulk of it is done to work, and it makes it a lot easier to work on your sail. And they'll roll right up with your sail a lot easier than rolling your sail to make them work. It's a little bit harder to get them on if you've got a whole big sail over here and here. So anytime I put them on early I do, as far as I can. Come down the other side. You might want to hold on more of this as to because your foot can push the batten over if you're a little bit on the edge of that elastic. You just want to make sure your stitches are clearly elastic in the edge so you're not falling onto the sail. And do the same thing on this side. There we go. And you can see where there's a little bit of a gap here at this line and this is hanging off. Now you're going to have a gap here in the center, but that's not going to matter so much just to make sure that your batten is sitting exactly right. The sail's been almost completely sewn together and Deb has completed the hem. Now she's going to sew the rest of that batten pocket on. Okay, so we're continuing on with this. And I have my double hem, all done underneath here. I double-sided sticky tape here that I'm going to push down. I'm like I told you before, you want to make sure your leach line is pushed back if you have a leach line running through. And these two points, when we positioned them, you see there's a little bit of a gap on the hem here. I'm going to have a bit of hang off there. Now we're just going to come back and tack down our ends. I'm going to take a few extra stitches just to make sure that those stitches are anchor good. It's down the very edge. If your sail includes a leach line, don't sew the leach line in at each batten pocket, otherwise it's useless. Do as Deb explained earlier. And I did narrow my stitches down again like I told you before in the video that gives you more space for your batten pocket, the work well in the pocket. Then you want to do some back stitches at the very end, just to anchor it down real well. Okay, now we've had a few people that have these batten pockets and they went up underneath the pocket here because it is open for flexibility in with your batten end. You don't want to go under here because you'll end up coming right out the end and make sure that you go into the opening here. You go down to the elastic and then you do that elastic as you're going to push it up in and pop a back down under your one inch hem. There it is. And after finishing off a few of the edges and installing the grommets, the sail is now complete. The sail only has two batten, but that's how easy it is to install a standard batten pocket. I'm Eric Grant with Sailrite. Thanks for watching this video. Bye bye.