 This is a Harbor Freight Breaker Bar for sheet metal. It's for bending sheet metal at a right angle and that sort of thing. Thought I'd do an unboxing video. Now, Harbor Freight does have a number of these. This one happens to handle thicker stock and it also has its own stand and everything. So I thought it would be a good option. I pretty much always just take a two by four in a hammer and start beating it up and then I get a bunch of dented shit looking results. I can actually show you that. Let me show you why I need one of these and why you may need one of these. See how that looks like crap? And you can see here where the metal sort of deviating around. You can see here this is sort of wrapped funny. Now, the thing about using a breaker is you won't have a continuous piece of metal. And sometimes you do need a continuous piece of metal. So it doesn't solve everything. But if you need a piece of metal, maybe you have like a, in this case, about a 32 inch piece of metal. And if you have the option, what you can do is you can just stagger them. So, you know, 32 inches, a little bit tucked underneath, 32 inches, etc. etc. I've probably needed one of these over 100 times in the past three years. Before I get any further, I wanted to mention I was able to fit this into the back seat of my Honda Accord. It's a 2003 Honda Accord. I should also mention that this weighs about 150 pounds. That's the bulk of the weight and that's the actual functional piece. It looks like that's already put together. So, I just have to put this stand together. It looks like the assembly couldn't be much simpler. It's a one to one ratio and they're all the same parts. Get out of here, stasse! Go! Get! Goats. So, I believe these are, well, I thought they were 3.25, they're larger than 5.8s and they're under 3.25. This 11.16 seems to fit well or a 17 millimeter. Well, that is about it for the assembly it looks like. I probably need to make some adjustments. I have a pretty good idea of how it should probably work. It seems straightforward. Okay, so immediately when I was trying to use this, these are not pre-adjusted. So, you can see this is about paper thin right here and I'm about to try some fairly paper thin stuff. But the way you actually adjusted is you loosen this bolt and this bolt and then use a wrench to adjust this. It looks like a range of wrenches will fit in there pretty well. So, the objective here is when you push this down, when you clamp it down, it should be roughly a little bit under the thickness of what you're trying to actually bend. This already seems like a bit of a pain in the butt. I have to adjust all these things. So, it looks like these are 3.25 and I can tell you that's already a pain in the butt because you need a second size to adjust this part here. You know, so you'd have to have two wrenches around to adjust this at all for any other thickness. I don't have any experience using other systems, but I can tell you this process is going to get old real fast if you're doing a lot of different sizes. That said, most likely what you'll end up doing is you'll have a project of a particular gauge of sheet. And that'll be the end of it. You'll make an adjustment one time. I can already tell there are some precision issues here. You can see right here where this actually meets this second piece for bending and where the base is. There's almost a quarter inch of misalignment. It looks like I should be able to adjust that by moving this bolt around. I was trying to avoid beating it with a hammer, but it's asking for it, so I'm going to use a board to protect it a little bit more. Now I can just at least in theory tighten up this bolt again. This is pretty disappointing. These felt pretty ill-fitting, and when I tighten it down, now at this point, it's not like I over-tightened it either. These just feel really loose. I assumed maybe they were kind of a funny high carbon steel or something, and that was the reason they felt so funny on this, but they're just ill-fitting. It turns out you could just leave this bottom one loose and just lock the top one. It really wouldn't make any difference because it's still going to prevent this adjustment from moving. I may at some point just go to the hardware store and look for a better nut because check this out. See how much movement there is right there? I'm sure these are some kind of special application nuts or something, but frankly they don't work. So I imagine what all I'd have to do is take off this bottom lock nut that is an nylon lock nut. This is the way all of these should be probably. Pop that off, then I can take this block right here off, and then I can just slip on a new nut that actually does fit. So I put a couple marks on here. Yeah, it's not too bad. This is not easy to stuff to bend either. I can tell you that. This stuff's pretty tough. Now I'm trying to get this extremely thin flashing. This is probably like 30. There we go. That's a pretty nice result. This is aluminum. This is typically what you'll see around doors and fixtures, windows, etc. with exterior sheathing. I just realized that center being a little bit off can be rectified using this. You just need to put a little bit more tension on it, I think, or about $100 more you can get something that does less than 36 inches. I want to say like 32, 28, 24 or something like that, but it has rollers. It has a cutting tool. It has all kinds of stuff that would be really nice and helpful. I think you can do that. I've seen other people do with this thinner stuff is you can just ride the edge of the blade like this. Just like that. Then that'll come right off. There we go. A nice clean edge. It's not like you have no cutting options with this, but again, this is like 30 gauge or something. Let's try the same thing using this stuff. That's probably 26 gauge steel instead of like 30, 32 gauge aluminum. So I have no doubt this will probably work, but it's a great way to ruin your edge. There we go. It's actually a really nice clean brake right there. One thing that's kind of nice is because I use that lever, it actually rolled the edge just slightly, making a bias on the orientation. So if you're cutting yourself or something, it's less easy to cut yourself. Maybe I'm just a slight edge to it. It's actually to make a good card scraper now. Let's try doing something a little bit more elaborate. Just to see if we can pull it off. I just have some basic lines on here as guides. I'm not going to do anything to precision, but let's see if I can do something slightly ornate. So here's this profile I made. We were trying to flash a door or a window or a chimney or something like that. Looks like you can actually get a little bit of an effect going on with the extrusion. What I like about this is that this is a really kind of unusable thickness for most things. If you're using hand tools, it's very difficult to get a nice professional result if you're trying to bend something this thick. So with the Harbor Freight membership, this was about $200 if I recall correctly. I think it's worth about $200. It gives you a better bending range, 36 inches than any other other breakers. It doesn't have a lot of fancy features, but it's still about a thousand dollars cheaper than a much nicer one that has many more features. And you can still probably do some elaborate things with this. Links in the description, folks. If I recall correctly, this had four out of five stars and the reviews. And I would say that's about right. For the value and for the result you can get. And for the range of gauges it can handle, I would give this a four out of five stars as well. Overall, I'd say it's a pretty good value. If you can get it at a discount through membership or a promotion. So I hope you enjoyed that. Please like and subscribe and I'll keep the videos coming. Thanks. I've often wondered what is the proper way to use a lock washer. And looking it up online for this video so that I don't mislead anyone, of course, has led to nothing in particular being valuable. So I'm just going to share my thoughts on this. A lock washer is designed to dig into two parts and prevent it from rotating. So where on this assembly could you possibly do that? Now you don't need a washer here on the front because this is already a nice broad surface. So it's going to always be on this side. And then you have your nut right here. Now you might say just look at the reference manual. The reference manual doesn't have these lock washers in there. And I would guess because probably they were in addition later on. So let's just kind of think about this for a minute. If you were to place this here, then this, then this, then what surface are you stopping? You're stopping the surface of this washer. Well, that's not going to hold this nut on, right? And the same goes for this. If you were to set it right here, what surface are you stopping? Well, yes, you are stopping this surface. That's true. So that would be a more valuable way to use this. But it's not going to stop the part that's easier to move, which is this piece right here. So in my opinion, the proper way to do this would probably have to be this way. Now the problem with this though is you're still against the surface that can move right here. So if y'all really think about it, the manifold you're trying to connect to the vault would be best served with this. Now that's going to hold your nut in place and it's going to hold it against the manifold, neither of which will move. So if you were to get your maximum block, I think this would be the way to do it. But what about vibration? Would that be sufficient for vibration? And what about having that broad surface? So I suppose if you were just using it as a spring and you were trying to absorb vibration, this would be the best compromise. None of them are particularly ideal and I know for example are doing no versus evil, ABE. He's talked about lock washer and he basically said they don't work. I think that's probably true. If you have a bunch of industrial settings where things are vibrating all the time and you have expansion and contraction of all the metals from temperature changes from unconditioned spaces, you're probably absolutely correct. And I don't by any means prefer lock washers. I actually much prefer lock nuts. The only thing I don't like about lock nuts is you always have to hold the head in the nut very securely because you have to get past that nylon, that nylon piece inside of them is a real pain in the butt. But they do hold very well in my experience. And I do think that there are, this is another lock nut, but if you had a washer that had these lines in it, then this kind of solves your problem because this creates a broad surface that you would normally get with a washer, but it also has these teeth. So you're putting basically your lock washer and your nut together, which solves the problem that I mentioned of friction against the manifold, because the surface you're mounting on, this will dig into that. You know, this my workshop, the shell of the building is using these. I was digging through some files and I found some old videos and pictures of inventions that I created in the past. This was about 2006 to 2012. This first one is a QD-CAT arcade. All of the functionality is packed into a single at Mell328 P-Chip. The music is driven by the main loop. Control-IJK uses background interrupts.