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I want to explain a little bit about tuning wind 
chime because it's actually set the most important  
part whether they look good at the end or not is 
one thing but if they don't sound good it won't  
matter how good they look they'll just sound 
horrible I have this setup now in a horizontal  
configuration because you want to tune before 
you drill the mounting hole for the pin where  
it's hung from the string you you hang the tube 
at what's called node points node points are  
locations where there's no vibration whenever you 
hit the tube there's a lot of vibrations in the  
tube but they won't occur at the node points 
which they occur it well you take the overall  
length times 0.2 to 4 then that number is what 
you measured in in from the end on each end and  
market that's the node point it's 22.4% for any 
length time - it doesn't matter if it's shorter or  
long when you are tuning these you have to keep 
in mind that you need to tune for the proceed  
frequency and not the fundamental frequency 
that's especially true with these long tubes  
like this that the shorter higher pitch win times 
a lot of times it's the same note but for example  
this tube here is the fundamental frequency is 
the C note a low C and the perceived note is f  
now that gets into a lot of technical stuff that 
I'm not going to get into right now but what I  
will say is the fundamental the reason with these 
long tubes is you don't tune for the fundamental  
is the fundamental no a lot of times it's so low 
that the human ear has a hard time picking it up  
where as we perceive notes are the ones the 
loudest one so that's easiest for a person to  
hear so that's what you have to tune for I know 
that sounds tricky and it actually is a very  
involved subject but fortunately there's a lot of 
information on the internet now by people who have  
studied deaths over the years and they published 
this on the internet so you can find a lot of  
information on tubing lengths thicknesses you 
know wall thicknesses things of that nature and  
material also so you can get that Meishan and cut 
these tubes to a close or general length and then  
start tuning from there once you have your tube 
suspended what you want to do is once you cut it  
a little bit oversized and suspend it you want to 
start trimming off the end until you bring it into  
tune now you can use a lot of different things 
for tuning a tube you can use guitar or well  
what I mean is you can use a musical instrument or 
tuning forks oscilloscope is probably the best but  
not a lot of people have access to that expose 
there is an app for a for an Android now called  
sound analyzer and I downloaded that to check the 
tubes out there I was done I didn't have it I use  
the guitar for the this set here but the sound 
analyzer is great if you want to simplify stuff  
they'll tell you what the fundamental is and all 
the overtones so you can know exactly you can fine  
tune it to the exact frequency it's supposed to 
be ok let's take a look at the sound analyzer
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okay as you can see here I got 129 would 
be the fundamental frequency that's one  
on the left then you have 350 which is one 
of the perceived frequencies the perceived  
note would be f-350 that's pretty much 
right on the other perceived one is 681  
it's saying the max hertz the max frequencies 
687 though which is still a little bit lower  
than the f note should be which is 697 i 
believe in the other two off the top of  
my head I can't remember what notes they 
are but that just demonstrates what the  
the fundamental or resonating frequency 
of the tube is and the perceived note
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I'm testing the aerator good on it then right and 
a little bit on the other end so as you can see  
we have a problem I hooked up another fitting for 
an air tube at the opposite end of the anodizing  
cell and as you can see now I have pretty even 
aeration throughout the entire length sometimes  
I'll get a dead a dead aerator in the middle but 
I just turn up the PSI just a little bit I'm going  
running a couple psi in this then running the T 
connection to tube do that of course over there  
is my my dye heater and ceiling so let's up 
to 195 degrees right now so I'm going to keep  
checking out and this is just a test I'm going 
to do a test run see how well this is working  
and hopefully it works out good the energizer 
uses low concentration sulfuric acid for the  
electrolyte I am running an edge air agitator 
which bubbles air up around the part and that's  
used to dislodge hydrogen bubbles so you get 
a better formation of your anodized layer a  
problem with that is is when you bubble something 
to sulfuric acid it releases it mean vibrates into  
the air and then you get sulfuric acid zooms 
into your workshop airspace you need to get  
rid of that because it's back to your lungs first 
of all and second of all I trust everything about  
instantly in your shop so I come up with this 
very simple fume extractor I had a boat build  
blower laying around for another project you know 
from a few years ago it's just a 12-volt axial fan  
setup that is used to take fumes out of the hall 
vote now I hooked up an adapter duct taped it on  
onto an inch and a quarter barbed fitting that's 
just your standard shop vac hose and then my fume  
extraction hood that goes on top of the anodizing 
cell this has a inch and quarter fitting on it  
to what I'm going to do it and put this outside 
hook this up and this will suck the air outside
here's my anodizing spell and operation you 
really can't see much because of the fume  
shrouds but inside there is aluminum tube and it 
is the cathode the curiously anode the cathode is  
the black lead hooked to that silver plate on the 
side it is building up a nanotech film okay here's  
the power supply it set the constant current right 
now if it sets a 3.9 amps and the voltage started  
out at 8.5 and working its way up to the peak 
anodic resistance I'll take about an hour and  
a half once that happens I shut it off and take 
the tube out rinse it then run it in the dye bath
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to show you a close-up to these chimes it turned 
out pretty decent in the top the other thing I  
wish is the top of this turned out really nice but 
these things are so long you really can't see the  
top the top backs were turned out exceptionally 
nice unfortunately no one will ever see it but  
these are anodized and sealed and waxed here's 
the black walnuts striker you can see there I  
put three wraps of black electrical tape around 
that it sounded nice just with the hardwood but  
it was very accentuated very sharp striking sound 
and the electrical tape helping to give it a more  
of a rich mellow sound so I went with that in the 
sale sale here turned out nice this is also black  
walnut you can see this course this wind chimes 
for my mother and she likes hummingbirds so I had  
a local wood shop that makes a custom woodworking 
I had down laser engrave these designs on here  
and he turned out exceptionally well so I will 
put a link in the description of where you can  
get this stuff done he can contact her we'll 
just kind of work she does a very nice work
one other thing I did too is I put rubber o-rings 
around the bottom of the tubes because when it  
gets windy tubes these tubes tend to smack 
together in the bottom and do not enough  
we'll start chipping each other start chipping 
the coating off after a while and the o-rings  
don't affect the sound at all right notice so 
this whole thing comes together very nicely
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