 Hello, this is Susan Woodcock and thank you for joining me for this presentation on the Buckram Fault line and interline remanshade. I'm the owner of Humback Owl and Custom Workroom Technical Center, also known as Workroom Tech here in Trion, North Carolina, and producer of Custom Workroom Conference. This is a follow-up to the Buckram Fault blackout remanshade. In July, I introduced this new method, which uses Buckram instead of ribs or rods, to provide stability and structure to the shade folds. It has been tested by workrooms and works for both blackout line to only or blackout line and interline shades. The printable PDF downloads with a supply list and step-by-step instructions can be found on my blog at home.gall.com. It was also published in the July issue of drapery and design digital digest. Today's presentation is for Buckram Fault lined and interline remanshade. Not all shades are blackout lined and yes it is possible to create a buckram fold shade with satin lining and interlining if using transparent buckram. It really works great. The sewing steps are a little different and I think easier than the method I shared for a buckram fold blackout shade. It's easier because you don't have to do special things to hide the pinholes of light. The transparent buckram provides stability to the folds without looking still for bulky. In fact when the light shines through a shade made with face fabric lining, interlining and translucent buckram you can't see anything at all. No one will ever know that you've added that buckram to the shade. A printable PDF download with a supply list and step-by-step instructions for this method can also be found on my blog at home.gall.com. Please note that the instructions are different than what I shared for the blackout buckram fold shade. So you will want to be sure to download all the instructions. Per the materials and supplies for this shade. You'll need face fabric and I used a cotton stripe lining and I used Haynes Classic Xatine. You'll need heavy flannel interlining and I used the white and that is what I would recommend because it does not yellow the face fabric unless you're using a dark face fabric then you could use a natural interlining. I'm using the Dufix fusible transparent buckram. The buckram I'm using for this shade is number 101 981 but it also comes in other sizes so you'll have to check the Dufix catalog and Dufix sells only to the trade. So this is a product that is for professional workrooms. You'll need shade rings with cord shroud or ladder tape or safety shade for ever rings and ring locks, lift cord, a weight bar, basic sewing tools and rulers and an iron and a reminshade lift system that accepts cords. The size of buckram used should be half of the ring spacing or slightly less. For example, three inch buckram is used for six inch vertical ring spacing and four inch buckram is used for eight inch ring spacing. If your ring spacing is seven inches you'll want to use three inch buckram. You need one piece of buckram for the hem and each section between the rings. The shade in this presentation is made with three inch buckram for six inch vertical ring spacing. And here are the cuts. You cut the face fabric, the finished width plus eight inches by the finished length plus eight inches. So the eight inches for the width includes two doubled side-hams that are two inch doubled side-hams. So you need four inches on each side for the side-hams. And the finished length is the cut length is the finished length plus the double-tem plus two inches for bore mounting. So I'm using a six inch allowance for the double-tem plus two inches to get eight inches. You'll adjust that for the size double-tem that you want to use. So if you're using a four inch double-tem plus two inches for bore mounting you need to allow ten inches. You'll cut the lining and inner lining the finished width by the finished length plus two inches. Cut pieces of fusible transparent buckram finished width minus a half inch. You'll need one piece for each section between the rings. Here's the fabrication step by step. And if you go ahead and download and print the instructions from my website you can have those to follow along. You'll place the main fabric face down on the work table, fold over four inches on each side, measuring to check that the width is accurate, fold the cut edge under to create two inch doubled side-hams down each side, and press. At the bottom, fold over six inches and fold the cut edge under and press to create a three inch doubled bottom hem. You do want to do it in this order so you do the side-hams first and then the bottom hem. Cover the back of the face fabric with inner lining trimmed to fit the width and length. Go ahead and press over the inner lining so it is flat and smooth. Moving at the bottom, place one piece of translucent buckram even with the crease that's pressed in the bottom finish length at the bottom of the inner lining. Do not fold it into the hem. The double fold hem will be below the buckram. And it's a little difficult to see but that piece of buckram that first piece of buckram is in place, but because it's transparent it's kind of hard to see on the picture. But it's placed right at the bottom of the inner lining above that doubled fold hem. Measure from the top edge of the first piece of buckram, three inches, for using three inch buckram, and place the second piece, evenly spaced. Stab pins into each end to hold the buckram pieces in place. You could also use weights. Repeat for the rest of the pieces of buckram spacing three inches apart. So I have the first piece of buckram and this is actually a six inch roller. So it works great for spacing every three inches. If you're using four inch buckram, you would be spacing them four inches apart for eight inch ring spacing. And I'm stabbing the pins along the edges and you'll see why I'm doing that coming up to hold everything in place. You can't really put pins across the center because you're going to have to add the lining. So let's look at that next. Now we're covering the back of the shade with lining. But leave those pins along the outside edges to hold the buckram in place. You don't want it moving around. You want it to stay level and square. Working from the center, press and steam the lining to fuse the buckram between the lining and the interlining. You want to continue over the entire back. As you work towards the outside edges, then you can remove the pins, unfold the side hems and tuck the edges of the buckram under the side hems and include the lining under the side hems and then continue pressing all the way to the outer edges. So you're working from the center, you're pressing and fusing the lining, the buckram and the interlining together. That's why it's important to use the fusible transparent buckram. Other suppliers sell a transparent buckram but they're not fusible. And we want the buckram to stay in place and not shift as the shade is being used. So that's why you're making sure it's nice and level and square. So do this carefully. After the lining is all pressed in place with the buckram, insert your weight bar into the bottom hem and you can fold up the bottom hem and insert your weight bar and then finish the bottom and side hems by hand stitching or using an adhesive tape or fabric glue. Using the hems with a blind hemming machine is not recommended for this style of Roman shade. Mark the ring spacing at the top edge of each piece of buckram. The ring spacing will be 2 ½ inches in set from each side and 10 inches are less apart horizontally in the center. For this sample, four columns of rings were needed. The ring at the bottom hem is actually going to be sewn to include that bottom hem. So you can see that in the photo at the right. That first ring needs to catch that fabric through to the face fabric. Your hand stitch rings at each mark using a thread that matches the face fabric. So through the lining, the translucent buckram and the interlining making a small stitch through to the face fabric. So you're sewing the rings on just like you would on a Roman shade that does not have the buckram included. This translucent buckram is very soft and it's very easy to stitch through so it's not difficult as it sounds. It's very simple, very easy to do. It's almost like you don't have buckram in the shade. Once all your rings are sewn on, you can measure and mark the finished length, attach the shade to the headrail system or the board or both, thread the cord through the rings, using a cord shroud, bladder tape or safety shade ring locks, following the manufacturer's instructions. Attach required cord safety warning tags and product labels, which are outlined in the cord safety standards. I must say I'm pretty proud of the board mount there and how nice that looks in that bottom left picture. You can see in the photo on the right at how neat and tidy those folds are with the buckram included. Just to point out that using buckram that is exactly half of the vertical ring spacing does create a slightly spaced cascading look to the rim and shade folds. I happen to really like that. I think it folds up flatter and neater than all the folds stacking on top of themselves. But sometimes you might want a tight stack, maybe to clear a window frame. If you do want to have a tighter stack on your folds, use buckram that is smaller than the fold size. If you're doing a bunch of vertical ring spacing, use a three inch buckram instead of four. I hope you've enjoyed this presentation. I'm sure you have questions. I'm happy to answer questions for you. So just get in touch. The how-to instructions can be found at homedeckl.com under the tab that says blog. In exchange for offering these free instructions, I would appreciate your support. Please subscribe to my YouTube channel and promote work from education by sharing this new method and tagging me and my websites to your followers on social media. And I will do the same for you. Thanks so much. Have a great day. Bye.