 Hello everybody, I hope you're having a nice day. I'm here again for an extra video for the week to show you guys another skill. So another thing that you guys asked me to show you was how to bag out and line the betty so I'm going to show you how to do that. But before I start I forgot to tell you last time what I was wearing. So today I'm wearing our ultimate shirt and it's made out of the Italian brunette fabric. I think it's called Remember Me? I'll pop it in the comments below. If we have sold out by the time you guys see this we will get it back in stock. We tend to get it back in stock right regularly because that's such a lovely fabric. Anyway it's really nice to wear, very comfy and I feel very smart. Smart enough to do a tutorial. So right, getting back to this. So how to bag out and line the betty. I think it was on my betty collection videos where I showed you a betty that had been made out of wool and I'd lined it so that it was more comfy to wear. So and then a few of you said, oh I'd love to see a tutorial on that. So I thought I'd show you that with you. So what I've got here is a betty made out of our Rio Cray. So it's a lovely soft more win-to-reautominal fabric for the betty and I've made it to this point. So I've got the skirt on, I've got the zip in the back and then the top, the neckline and the shoulders are all unstitched. I have done my understitching which you won't be able to see. And then what I've done for the lining is I've made up another bodice. So using exactly the same pattern I made up the body again and I've done my seams, my darts but again left the neckline shoulder seams open. So that's the stage you want to get to. This is just a lightweight cotton. Nothing particularly special about this. You need to make sure you don't use anything too heavy though. So nothing heavier than a lightweight cotton because you don't want the lining to fight with the quality of the outer fabric. So you don't want anything too rigid if your outer fabric isn't rigid. Okay. So what we're going to do is we're going to start by joining the necklines. So if you've seen my How to Attach an All in One neckline and Armhole Facing video, again we'll put a link to that in the comments below because if you're interested in this and you haven't seen that you might want to watch that video as well. There's a certain technique that I show you in that on how to finish the shoulder seams. I'm going to do a slightly different technique for this just because I thought it would be interesting to share another way. So there's kind of technique, there's lots of ways of doing this. So it's no right or wrong. Some of people prefer one technique over the other but I figured if I give you guys another technique to do you can try that one out and see if you prefer that. So what we're going to do is we're going to line up our lining right sides together with our outer dirty fabric and I'm going to line up the armholes first. So lining up the seams there. So that's the side seams. Now all of my seam allowances are pressed open and the great thing about doing this is you don't need to do any overlocking or zigzagging on your seam allowances because they're all going to be tucked in. So only the skirt seam allowances will need to be finished. So line up your notches. So wherever there were notches in your bodice on your outer fabric you should have the same notches cut into your lining. Okay guys I've pinned all of that so it's all vicious and fantastic now so be careful as you're sewing with that. What we're going to do then so this is going to be slightly different from what the instructions for Betty say and what I did in my last video for the facing. We're going to sew all the way up to the shoulder seam so we're going to sew up there. We're going to sew around the armhole along there and the same on the other side. It's really important that your seam allowances are very accurate particularly at the top near the shoulder seam because the way that we're going to join the shoulder seam means that they need to be exactly the same. So the front and back need to join perfectly so make sure you're very accurate on your seam allowances there. And the only thing to note that's slightly different is the center back. Now because when we finish the center back edge of the lining we're going to hand stitch that to the zip. So in preparation for that what we'll only to do is fold back the lining so that it's sitting just inside of the folded edge where the zip starts on the center back so that when we turn it all the right way around it's going to sit in place so it's sitting just in front of the zip teeth there. So you can see mine's folded back a little bit like that and I'm going to pin it in that position. Do the same on the other side. So I'm now going to sew that with the same seam allowance. So the center need to be in a half seam allowance. And I'm going basically all around the arm holes the center back neckline and the front neckline being as accurate as possible with the seam allowance measurement. Okay guys I have stitched that all the way around now and so now it's time to trim the seam allowances down to five millimeters and clip the curves as well and I've made myself a cup of tea because I was getting a bit cold and sitting still. And I noticed that I hadn't drag any of the previous cup that I made. So trimming them down. Okay so we've clipped everything and trim the seams. So now what we need to do is press it so that it's ready for the under stitching and we're going to press the seam allowances towards the lining side. So get them into the iron as much as you can. It's a bit awkward. You won't be able to go so far up because of the way the straps are but getting as far as you can and iron them over to this lining side. Okay so those are all pressed and it's now ready to understitch. So you're not going to be able to understitch every section of this but just understitch as much as you can to stitching a couple of millimeters on the lining side. So a couple of millimeters from the seam edge anchoring the seam allowance to the lining. So I've done the understitching and then I've also ironed it so that it's now got the line just slightly on the inside so I just rolled it so that the outer fabric just rolls over the edge the lining is not peeking out. And so the last stage is during the shoulder seams. So what we have to do okay so we're going to tuck one shoulder seam in like that and we're going to take the front and we're going to pop it into into the back shoulder seam. So like that inserting it and then if you put your hand up inside pinch it and pull it through like that. So there is my front here and this is my back strap. Now this is when it's really important that the seam allowances were perfect because we now need to line it up so that they're absolutely sitting flush with one another. So I want to make sure that the seam for the front strap is sitting right up against the seam for the back strap and I'm using a pin to make sure that that happens. So if I peel that back you can see that seam there has to sit with that seam there. So now I'm going to sew across with my centimeter and a half seam allowance joining those shoulder seams. So the stitch so now what you do is you pull through and there you have the strap joined. Now the key thing is to make this a smooth join is that then it needs to be positioned really close to that seam and if it's not then you do get a ridge but you also need to trim away some of this bulk. So I'm now going to go back and inside and just get rid of some of that bulk so that it sits a lot better. And then I'm going to go to the iron and I'm going to fiddle around and get that nice and flat and smooth. So we've done the straps so the last thing is to join the lining to the rest of the dress. So what I've done is I've ironed over the seam allowance on the centre back and also on the bottom of the lining as well so on that bottom bodice edge. I'm going to turn the dress inside out. I'm going to try and turn the dress inside out. There we go and now I'm going to pin it all to the back of the zip and to the seam allowance. So on the centre back we're going to pin it so that it's sitting a couple of millimeters away from the teeth of the zip. It's important that it's not too close otherwise it will catch on the zip as you do it up and down. So pinned all the way down the edge like that. And then on the waist seam you want to make sure that your seam allowance is pressed up towards the bodice on your dress and then your lining is going to sit just on the edge of that seam. So where the seam from the skirt and the bodice is on your outer fabric you want the lining folded edge to sit just on that so not below it because we're going to want to slip stitch the lining to the seam allowance so just on it. So line up your darts and your lining with your darts in your outer fabric and your five seams as well. So just get all the way around pinning that. So I've pinned all the way around and now I'm going to slip stitch the lining to the back of the zip and to the seam allowance along the waist. Okay guys so that's it done. So I've slipped stitch all the way around the waist seam and also on the center back. So my lining is lovely and neat and it means that my neckline is all beautifully finished as though I did a facing but for some of you this might be more comfortable to wear if you're using a wool fabric or something yeah a little bit more scratchy to the skin. So I hope you found that tutorial useful and if you haven't subscribed to us make sure you do because there'll be lots more of these coming your way. I've got two more to release so I'll be releasing them next week and the week after and if you have any comments please do let us know below and give us a thumbs up if you liked it. I hope that was interesting. I will see you next time. Bye!