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here is a very cheap petty coat I can
imagine what you are thinking some of
you must be shocked others are smiling
and still others feel pity for me but in
fact there is no drama this really cheap
price includes proper steel hoops and
Frankly Speaking I have no idea what I
could replace them with there is no way
you can use waline Bon as a foundation
for a petticoat wling bones can be used
to reinforce the Petticoat but they
cannot replace the steel Hoops they will
not be able to hold the weight of the
skirt and I can't say anything about
using plastic Bon sold per meter as
Petticoat Hoops I always buy a cheap
Petticoat and take out the Hoops before
making your own Petticoat you need to
know the desired fullness of your future
garment and your client's waist to floor
with shoes this measurement is described
in detail in issues one and two of
Premium skirts available at the corset
Academy simply put waist to floor with
shoes is measured from the cord tied
around the bride's waist down to the
floor while she is wearing the shoes she
is going to wear for the wedding
ceremony please make sure not to confuse
it with waist to floor waist to floor is
measured with the woman standing
barefooted but sometimes you need to
account for the height of the shoes she
will be wearing with the dress my
clients waist to floor with shoes is 111
cm
I adjust the height of the dress form in
accordance with the measurement 111 CM
from the waist line to the floor level
the fullness of the Petticoat is
determined by the circumference of its
bottom hoop the bottom hoop of the
original pett coat has a circumference
of 250
cm this is basically as small as it gets
if it were 2 m it would be nearly
impossible to walk in this Petticoat I
want to look ahead and tell you that the
bottom hoop will have a length of about
3 m to account for the train this length
will allow the bride to walk freely it
is best to imitate the fullness of the
Petticoat on the dress form before
taking measurements for the future
garment in my case there is no need in
additional calculations I will will use
the original Petticoat for this purpose
I measure from the waist to the floor
along the front I place the end of the
measuring tape at the waist and let it
fall down loose so it doesn't deform the
Petticoat the distance is
115
CM then I take the same measurement
along the side of the petticoat
I need to account for a small train at
the back I will use my own measurement
value in the calculations instead of
measuring the same distance along the
back of the Petticoat before we continue
let us talk about the balance of the
future skirt as you can see here the
original Petticoat hangs Loosely on the
dress form and the bottom hoop is rather
far from the floor the Hoops themselves
are sewn on a skew although it is a
great example of what you must never do
think of it as just a demo distorted
fabric naturally makes the whole garment
look deformed and the fabric would be
spread out properly if the Hoops were
positioned horizontally but they were
not it is clear here one side of the
skirt is steeper than the other
conclusion if the Hoops of your
Petticoat are sewn on a skew the skirt
will inevitably look
deformed let us continue analyzing the
balance of the skirt the fullness will
be increased with the help of additional
Ruffles they are usually sewn on at
random where exactly to add them depends
on the style of the SKT skirt especially
if it features a train even the smallest
train implies that you should make the
back of the skirt Fuller somewhat
hill-shaped the skirt is supposed to
have an increased slope at the back this
is done with the help of various Ruffles
to achieve a smooth transition to the
train and this method is used regardless
of where the flare Begins the skirt may
be flared From Below or just above the
buttock or right from the waist it all
depends on the style in my case the
flare will start 12 CM below the waist
it is important to know that additional
Ruffles will increase the weight of this
part of the skirt though and it will
start sinking in needless to say this is
not something we want readymade pett
coats with trains are notorious for this
negative effect Ruffles often make the
train area heavier than the front of the
Petticoat which causes the bottom hoop
to rise at the front as I said before a
petticoat should be comfortable enough
for the bride to walk freely the bottom
hoop is not supposed to obstruct her
movements therefore the bottom hoop is
normally positioned 10 to 15 cm above
floor level to ensure proper balance
with without obstructing the wearer's
movements standard petticoats usually
have their bottom Hoops positioned
horizontally 10 to 15 cm above the floor
there is a stiff ruffle below the bottom
hoop to prevent the Hem of the main
skirt from curling in but since our
skirt features a train I will have to
make it Fuller at the back by adding
some Ruffles of course there will be
ruffles at the front of the skirt as
well not for the sake of making it
Fuller but to disguise the Hoops the
additional ruffles at the back will
therefore be a lot heavier than those at
the front the skirt will thus go a skew
if the bottom hoop of the pet coat runs
parallel to the floor this is the most
common defect of all ready-made
petticoats I need to find a different
solution and position the bottom hoop in
some other way I suggest bringing it to
about 20 cm above floor level at the
front while lowering it right down to
the floor at the
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back the hoop will be thereby anchored
on the floor the back half of the hoop
will cling to the floor maintaining the
desired slant and fullness of the skirt
I will do this with my pet coat the
train will be r rather small and cut
from seethrough mesh fabric together
with the face of the skirt a small train
implies a small lining so I don't need
to account for it on the Petticoat what
I need to do is cut it correctly with
regard to the bottom hoop and the stiff
ruffle below it which will prevent the
Hem from curling in I will take the
bottom hoop circumference to be 250 cm
in the cutting the stiff ruffle will be
sewn on parallel to the floor I.E
horizontally and not parallel to the
hoop this will make the Petticoat look
straight despite the angled position at
the bottom of the hoop
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