 Hey guys, Bill here, countertop's eliminated. Today, I am going to be showing how to put on bevel edge. I had a request for it the other night. So I figured I would make a new video. Bevel edge on a laminar countertop. Looks something like this. This piece here has the tongue. I do not use the tongue. I actually just use the flat back, which is similar to... ...oh, we're putting it today right here. Show you that. It's just the flat back edging. There's no tongue in it. It's just all flat. Okay, so that's the bevel edge. Now, this is made by Wilson Art, this edging that I'm using today. Wilson Art also has two different kind of edges. As of right now, they're not all available yet. Only certain colors, but they're increasing the line as we speak. Okay, this guy here is the crescent edge. Okay. So it gives you the bull nose look basically. And then we also have the cascade edge. This one doesn't seem to be as popular as the crescent or the bevel, but just another option. As you can see. Okay. So, as of right now, if you watched other videos of mine, you would see me laminating countertop and routing it out and whatnot. At this point, the laminated still needs to be routed. This is a big countertop. It's getting a field seam. So it's probably a good one to show bevel edge going on. So you see all the steps with all different types of tops basically. And I'm ready to route up the edge now. I'll give you a quick view of that. And what I do after, here we go. Okay. This bit here, sure as in the view, a half inch double flute router bit with a half inch bearing. Just the basic one in the middle bit. Okay. And then the next step on that. Okay. What I have here is just a block sander I made up. It's 80 grit belt sanding paper. Just wrapped around a quarry on block. And I use this block here just as a tightener. Tighten it up so it's on there nice and flat and strong. And basically I hold it nice and flat. Now I'll just go through and just basically lightly sand the laminate to make sure there's no imperfections, little bumps. Make sure there's no voids when you're gluing and putting a piece of edging on. Something like so. Fill it with your finger. Fillers no imperfections. It's nice and smooth. Nice square corners. You want those when the bevel edge goes on. For one, it makes it easier lining it up and cutting it. For two, you don't have little voids at the top, which you'd have to fill with the filler after the fact. So that gives you an idea of that. I'm going to go ahead and route out the entire top now. And then we'll take it to the next stop. Okay, let me give you a quick idea of what's going on here with the field seam. Like I said before, because the size of this countertop, there's no way I'm putting this in my van, transporting it to the house. And there's probably not much chance of even getting it into the kitchen. So we're doing a field seam in it. The sink is actually over here. It's going to be in this area. So this will be in the sink. So I'm really only worried about two and a half inches in the front and an inch and a half in the back. Because I'm really concerned about it at this point. But for doing the bevel edge and whatnot, all I'm concerned with is lining it up nice and straight. And what I'm going to do is use a couple of inch and a quarter screws, screw through this build up at the bottom here, and screw the back in also. And as you can see, I overhang my build up. So it's attached to this side of the countertop already. Basically what I do is when I'm building up the countertop, I build it as one piece. And before I put this last strip of build up on and the last strip of build up on, I use my first tool saw, make a nice straight cut, and then build it up the rest of the way. And then at that point I can flip it over, because even the size of this, I can't even flip it over inside the shop. So what I'm going to do now is screw this in here. So this will be nice and even in the front here. And then, that'll allow me to cut this front strip of build up. That's going to run across the front here. And what I'm going to do is tape it on, but I'm not going to glue it. I'm going to leave it loose. Then after I'm in the house, and I glue this seam together, front and back, then I will put the last piece of bevel on on sight. This way, there's no seam running straight down where the seam is. It gives it a much nicer look. And definitely a lot more custom when you're doing something like that. So that last strip, we will leave loose. So you will see that later. Alright, that gives you a good idea of that. And I'll put that together now, and then we can start the bevel. Okay, I got my field seam put together. With screws, I'll bolt it up. I sand it across the face there. So everything is nice and even. And I'm ready to start laying out the bevel edge. I've got the three strips over, which should be plenty for this job. And basically, what I like to do is start with the biggest piece first. I cut everything an inch long. The ends of the bevel, you have to check to make sure there's no... dimples in it or anything. From the planer. This one feels pretty good. Once in a while, you'll see in about this much here, there might be a little dimple from the drum sander, whatever they're sending the stuff through when they're making it. So that feels pretty good. So what I'm going to do is go ahead and... line this guy up. I'll give it an extra intersole there. And over here, just go ahead and mark it. Alright, that'll be my cut. So what I'm going to do is just go ahead and get everything rough-cutted. Get all the pieces cutted and laid out. And when we come back here, we'll go to the next step. Okay, all the pieces are now cut. We are ready to start doing some assembly. We'll bring it right over here. Let me show you the inside corner real fast here. Because it's radiused right here, left from the router. So you basically have a half inch radius, or actually there'll be a quarter inch radius from a half inch bet. So what's going to happen is... I already cut this piece in this piece. I have 45 on the chop saw. And in order to get this to fit in there, because it's radiused, I'm just going to use our easy-going block sander. Okay, we're just going to put a little moon on it like that. Okay, give me the idea. So I'll just sand a little bit. We can always sand more. That's looking pretty good. So I'm going to go ahead and do the next one here. Okay, at this point our piece is still so long here that I can't really get it to line up because it's so long in order to get it in the hole I'm way back here somewhere. What we're going to do is give this a more precise cut now at this point. Putting that edge in there, we're going to just a very top corner. We're going to go ahead and cut this now on a 45 that way. Knowing that I already sanded a little bit off of here, this piece is already going to be just a hair long, and then with cutting it right there where I cut it. So, I'll go ahead and take care of that. Okay, I do have two chip chops I was up here. The left chop saw has a wood blade in it, but it cuts a little too rough for the bevel edge. So I use the Corian blade. It's a 1060 blade where the other one's a 1050, but it's a lot finer of a cut. So I use that just for my bevel edge and I also use it for obviously cutting Corian. So if you're going to be using a chop saw to cut your edging for a final cut, you want to get yourself even an 80 tooth blade. Something on the finer side would work good. Obviously not many people is going to have a solid surface blade laying around. So I'll put it on the other side. Okay, I'll put it on the other side. Okay, I'll put it on the other side. Okay, my safety glasses, I'll put it on those. Their eyes are important. You need them. Okay, I'll put safety glasses on. Okay, I'm actually going to at least get this in here. Close enough so I can check this piece here with this piece. Okay, we are pretty close there. Okay, so at this point, I'm going to say let's go ahead and put this piece on first. So we know this is lining up with it and we can chase our way around then. Okay, if you see my other video, this here is Kantec tape. They sell it at bear supply. I think the part number is like SF150. So if you go to bear supply, you'll be able to find it. This tape here has a good amount of stretch to it and it snaps back. It doesn't just stay. So I'm using it to get pressure at the top edge of the bevel edge when I pull it across. So it's basically being a clamp and it also lines up the top edge very nice also. I went with it. Some people use mask tape, some people use strand tape. They work but still they that does a little bit better. Okay, we got a rag. We got simple green. Okay, we got our wood glue. Okay, I like to have some spring clamps laying around. Okay, so you got to clamp something down or use it as an extra hand that works too. Okay, this glue is tight bond 3. It's tight bonds, most water proof glue. You pay a little bit more for it but it's definitely worth it. Okay, something like that. Back out there. Okay, this is where those spring clamps come in handy. Just to help with the extra hand. We're going to wet in our rag here. Just a little bit of simple green water. We'll use that to clean up the glue as we go. Okay, just get a little bit cleaned up there. And we're going to do is chuck it. Make sure it's in the right spot before taping it. Okay, right about there is good. Don't check that again. It went good on me. Turn it out there. Okay, what I like to do is go underneath the buildup and actually press it to the back side of the buildup. The buildup is only two and a quarter so just need enough tape to get around that. And then you can see as I pull this, I can pull that a good inch and then stick it down. Okay, I use my knife to cut. For anybody that's not too experienced, I tell them to use a pencil or something to cut the tape. Just to poke it. Just so you're not accidentally hitting the countertop of the knife. Okay, I'm going to keep tape in here. And then I'll show you another one. And then the next corner. The other side is all taped. Ready to go. Okay, obviously now we've got to sand this corner a little bit. It looks so. Okay, I'll slide this over here. Line it up on the left. As you can see we're tight coming in here. What I like to do is I'll just wedge it in there. And this piece here is going to kind of dictate how much I cut off the other piece. Oops, sorry. Hit the tripod there. Let's make sure you're lined up. Okay, there you go. Okay. Okay, now as I butt this piece in, I'm going to do as clamp this so I could show you. Okay, lower it down here. Okay, as you can see here where this piece is coming into this piece, this face here, basically we know that this face needs to line up with this face. That's the easiest way to figure out where your cut should be. So basically I want to take off right to there, which is about an eighth inch. And I'm also a little longer because I'm bowing off a there. So I'm even bigger than what it is. So let me go ahead and pop this guy out of here. Okay, I'm going to go cut this. Okay, I made a cut. I was just a hair too long so I took a hair more off. And right now we are lined up perfect right there. So what I'm going to do at this point is go ahead and tape this edging on. Just on the two ends really. Because this is the piece we're going to be taking back off and doing on sight. Okay, so that brings us to the next step. There's going to be cutting this corner here. Try to get it right here like that. Okay, checking this end down here, we know we're good. So I'm going to go ahead and get myself just a fine mark. That's like hand. A little dot there. Right where that corner is. I'm going to go ahead and cut myself a 22 and a half to get that guy to line up there. And while I'm at it, I'm also going to cut the other piece, small piece on the 22 and a half the opposite way. I can use that to check it to make sure I cut it right. Okay, let's take a look back here. Just going to wind up on the left. Got my two 45s coming together. Okay, I'm just a hair heavy on the left side here. I could just feel it. It's a tiny, tiny bit. We're going to go ahead and make one more cut on that. Okay, I'm going to get back in. Okay, I'm going to get back in. Okay, wind up the left. Check the right. Okay, in this case, I'm still just a hair heavy. It's almost to a point where you can feel it, but can't see it. Let me go ahead and take just a little more off. Actually, this is a good time to show you how I go about taking just a tiny, tiny bit off without taking too much off. This will be a nice trick for you here. What I like to do is I'll bring my saw blade all the way down. Get the edging nice and flat everywhere. Take it and just touch the saw blade like that. Now when I bring this up, it actually just rubs because the blade is just heavier. The curve is just of the tooth is heavier than the steel blade itself. That gives it a little clearance when you're cutting. So I'm going to cut it right now. Okay, so I'm taking off just a tiny, tiny bit by doing that without even really lining up anything to be cut. If you do that, and even if it takes you three or four times of doing that, this way you're pretty much guaranteed not to cut it too heavy. Okay, let's try again. There we go. There we have it. That's right on. You're seeing a little bit of a white line. Just from cutting it. That will pretty much disappear with a black color. If it's still there, you can always do a tiny dab of marker on it and clean it off. The marker will go inside the lid, a little tiny chips that are left. It's barely nothing but they're there. You can almost just feel it just a little roughness. So the marker, the marker would take care of that on a black top. Obviously if this was a light color top, you wouldn't have that issue at all. So this is good to go. I'm going to go ahead and glue this piece on. And then basically do the same thing with this piece, that piece, and follow all the way around. Until it's done all the way over there. I'm going to start doing it if I come across any more tidbits for you. To help you along, I will get you back. Alright, as of now, all the edging is on the big top. All the way around. I am at the first piece on the little top here. I'll give you a couple more tidbits of a vice. Okay, when doing edges, corners, outside corners like this, if you need to, if they look a little gappy, what you could do is you could actually undercut the back side of the bevel right here. So basically what I do is I just get right up in here and I just kind of work it. Some of this is right off here like this. Okay, and doing so. Now you've got to worry about it as that little bit touching instead of all this extra meat back here. Give you a little bit closer. Like that looks good. Now in this case, this piece here is good at the top. It's good right here in the front, but it's still here heavy at the very bottom down here. It's not that bad, but another thing you could do if in case that happens, just go ahead and block sand off this area of the bevel edge. Careful not to move this bevel when your thumb is up on that top edge. Obviously this edge is sharp, should be wearing gloves, they suggest wearing gloves with this stuff. I rarely cut myself anymore, but it still happens. Okay, and another thing you could do if something's running a slightly out of square and you need to adjust this, all I do is when I take this to the chop saw, as I throw a little dust under one of these corners, just to prop it up there, any tiny bit. So when I shave this off, I'm shaving just a hair more off the bottom and to even out the edge. I rarely have to do that, only because my edges are all really square. The way I build up my tops, if you look at the understanding, the making of a countertop with the bevel edge under my sink, if you look at that video, you'll see that. I leave this build up, actually hanging out a little bit in spots all the way around, and then I run my router around here and I actually trim it up so everything's perfect and true. Then I go back with a blocksander, clean it up after the fact, and then I eat clips like this clip. This clip I actually did with the Festool saw, but I usually just put up a straight edge across here with a combo square. Make sure it's exactly on a 22, because if it's not, you slightly dip this in on one side or the other, and the edge is more difficult. It's very easy to take a bevel edge job and double the timing for the install of the edging, if the countertop deck is not done really good. So, good deck is where to start, and that will lead you to a good bevel edge job. These clips here, at Festool saw, I left them completely square coming out, and I just basically measured it out, set up my straight edge for my tracksaw and cut across those corners, which gave me nice crisp corners to work with. Nice and simple. So, that's it. Another tip bit, only wait like hour and a half before taking off the tape, and don't wait any longer. The longer you wait, the harder the tape is to come off. So, like right now, it's probably been an hour and a half since I first put this piece on. So, it gives you an idea how long it takes to do an entire job. This size should take an hour and a half, two hours, if you're an experienced maybe three at most. See how it's coming off really easy? If you leave this tape on real long, or especially overnight, it'll start ripping on you, leaving pieces, chunks. The finish also makes a difference on the tape. If you're using more of a smoother finish, then it's harder to come off, especially as time goes on. So, get that tape off before you call it the night, you can save you a clean up time in the morning. So, the last thing I got to do is those two pieces of bevel edge. I'm going to take care of those, put my end caps on, and tomorrow I can put the sink hole in it, clean it up, and install it. So, yeah, that's it for bevel. If you have any questions, leave me a comment. And thanks for watching.