 Well, hello friends. Jordan here and today we're going to do a little tutorial on how to install cram-rolling. I've been in the industry for a long time now and over the years. I've made a few mistakes and I've learned from them. I've picked up a few tricks and I'm here to share them with you today and hope that this makes your life a little easier. Cram-rolling can be a tricky one. I've seen some pretty terrible hack jobs but I'm hoping to help you out here. Let's make it a little smoother. Okay, so without any further ado, let's do it. Today we're going to show you everything from doing a standard inside corner to an outside corner with an off angle. We're going to cover how to do a seam when your cram-rolling is not long enough for your wall and how to do a nice return. First things first find your measurements. I always measure about three inches down from the ceiling. The reason being that's where the crown is actually going to sit and dry wall corners can really vary. Once you've got your measurement, you know, I suggest raining a ball on a wall and a piece of paper for your reference. Another little tip it's always best to round up about half a 16th or so because you know, once you've cut your piece, you're basically stuck with it. You can after you've fit it, you can always trim off a little bit but if it's too short, you just waste it a piece and waste it some time. Next step is to find your saucy. First off, never assume a 90-degree corner is actually 90 degrees. A seam here, it's actually about one degree shy of a perfect corner. I know it doesn't seem like much but it's more than enough to really throw off your miter and you're going to spend all this time tweaking it and bending it and just trying to make it right and in the end you're just going to fill it with caulking and it's just not going to look professional. A perfect fit is actually quite easy to find if you have the right tools and know how. All you need is a T-bubble and a saw set carpenter's protractor. Simply place the T-bubble in the corner and transfer it over to your saw set. Then bam, you got yourself the perfect saw setting. Okay, now it's time to start cutting. First things first, set your saw to the correct setting, which you found on your saw set. After that, simply place your crown molding where it's supposed to be and make your cut. Take your time, watch your fingers, nobody wants to be called stumpy. Another really important thing here is I've got, as you can see there, I've got these jigs that hold the crown molding in place up against the fence. Very important to have. If you don't have one, you can't really hold it manually. You're not going to be accurate, so I highly suggest either getting one of these rigs or you can make one yourself with Check YouTube, you'll find something for that. Now, before you start gluing up your molding and breaking up the nail gun, it's very important to do a dry fit. Just to make sure that it's not too long, not too short, and you can make adjustments after that. Once you've realized that it fits and everything's okay to go, it's time to start gluing. It's very important that you glue all ends and all sides of the crown molding itself, the inside miters, outside miters, and everywhere where it touches the wall. It's not the nails that really hold the molding, it's more the glue because once the glue dries, that's where it's going to stay. Something I see all the time and it really gets me going is when people put their crown molding upside down. A lot of people don't realize that it's the more detailed cove always goes on the bottom when you place it on the wall. Okay, now that you're all gluing ready to go, it's time for the fun part, time to install. So a couple little things to point out, I guess. One of them being right when you put your miters together, you might find that there's a gap on the top or the bottom. That doesn't mean the miters off, it just means the positioning is wrong. All you have to do is just move both pieces of molding at the same time, either upper down depending on where the gap is. You can figure it out as you go along. Just sort of tweak it, take your time, play with it, and just try and stay relaxed, don't get anxious. Once you've got your miters just right, pop a couple of nails right into the corner itself, and then sort of work your way along and go from there. So yeah, in a perfect world, you should probably always try to hit your studs. Sometimes you can find them, sometimes they're not there in the ceiling. Just make sure to get the ones in the corners, get a stud finder, and mark them if you can. If not, then you hit your nail on a bit of an angle, and the glue is going to do the work in the end, like I said earlier, so don't worry too much if you can't find the studs. Always make sure to get your glue cleaned up while it's still wet. Don't walk away and continue on to let it dry on its own, because it is so much more difficult if everything hardens and you have to pick it out with an knife. Now when you're not doing two short pieces, or at least a long piece and a short piece, so if you're doing two long ones, it's good to build a sample piece, like what I'm doing here, where I'm just cutting another piece at the exact same angle, and I use that to sort of tweak around and dry fit and make sure that I have my, the miter or my corners in the right position. That'll just nail the rest of the board in and that way in my next piece when I put it in, it's going to be a perfect fit because I use the sample. So everyone's still all you're going to come across a situation like what we have here, where we have a piece of crumbling that just ends. It doesn't go to inside or outside corners, nothing to but it but it up against. So what you have to do is you have to create a return as seen here. So it's a nice little piece, looks really good, shows off the profile and it's quite easy to do. Here's a short little clip on how it's done. Okay, now that you've done all these perfect miter and made this beautiful job, installing all your crumbled in, you need to finish it by filling all the cracks and holes. This is actually very important. If you mess this up, it doesn't matter how good of a job, you did carpentering it, it's going to look terrible. So a couple things to point out, you really want to make sure that ooze your your cocking like push it in. You don't want it just to sit on the surface because it's going to wind up opening up over time if you don't fill in those cracks. Make sure to have a wet sponge with you at all times, keep your fingers wet but not too wet. If you've saturated too much, you're going to find that it's going to sink in after a dries. So keep a wet sponge, keep a wet finger but not too wet. In this video, I'm filling my holes, my nail holes with cocking, which can be done if you do it correctly. If you get it two wets and wipe it down, it's going to sink and look terrible. So you just want to wet your finger a little bit and just sort of spread it and smooth it out. After this, I'm going to show you a little clip on how to deal with seams. Are you going to come across situations where you got 12 feet of crown holding and a 13 foot wall. When this happens, you're going to have to make a seam and you need to do it right. If you don't do it right, it's going to open up and it's going to look terrible. So watch, learn and enjoy. This video was brought to you by Sauset. Check us out at www.sauset.ca for more information on this fantastic little tool. Thanks so much for watching guys. I hope you enjoyed and learned a little something. Please stay tuned. We'll try to get more videos out for you as soon as possible. Like, subscribe and comment below. Take care.