 This video is going to show you how to build a sail cover from one of Sailrite's kits from beginning to end. The sail cover kits come with all the instructions and the lines are plotted on the fabric and all supplies are included. If your boom is 13 footer longer, you may have a choice of two patterns plotted on your fabric. To determine which pattern to use, measure the stack height along the mast as illustrated here in this video. When that's made, then you know to choose pattern A or pattern B in the written instructions and then cut along those lines. All sail covers are plotted on our 50 foot flotter bed. Here you can see the plotter at work. Notice that all cutting lines are drawn onto the fabric. So all you need to do is just take that fabric that's got the lines plotted on it and then take it over and cut it. You can cut it with scissors, but we really recommend using a hot knife to seal the edges. If your boom length is 13 footer more and the fabric color you've chosen is not available in 60 inch. This pattern will have been plotted on 46 inch material. The reduced width does not allow for the needed throat height and as a result you will find a portion of your throat plotted separately. On sail covers that are 13 footer longer, you may find an extra throat piece that is implanted on the fabric. If so, you need to join that to the main boom panel using the semi-flat failed seam. To do this, we'll take the extra throat, lay it directly on top, matching up those edges and then we'll follow the procedures in the semi-flat failed seam. Here, line up the edge and baste, step 2, sew a row of stitches about a half inch from the edge, step 3, spread panels flat, and then step 4, sew about a quarter inch away from the fold. We'll show this procedure after we adhere the logo to the sail cover. We'll adhere the Sailrite logo to the throat of the sail cover on both sides and we measure to make sure that it's centered and then we sew it with a sewing machine. Even though it is an adhesive logo, it's a good idea to sew it. Show the world that you build it yourself with a Sailrite kit. Now we use double-sided tape and we put it across the top to install any kind of extension. This has a little throat section that's added on to add some length to the throat of this sail cover. Some sail covers do not include this. We're going to do a semi-flat failed seam. So our first stitch is a half inch from that raw edge. Then we take it back over and unfold that seam so that the fold is on the top side and sew it again. Be sure to sew that half inch fold on the bottom side. We'll use a 6mm or longer straight stitch to avoid puckering. And then we'll do the second throat extension. Remember, some sail covers do not have the sector throat extension. Now we'll take those two panels and we'll start working on the hem to the bottom edge. This hem will be a double hem. It will be one inch when completed. To create this double hem, we'll use a heavy object to crease the fabric. Creasing the fabric helps the material fold exactly where you desire that double hem to be. So we fold it over once and we'll fold it over again to equal one inch hem. Included in each sail cover kit, there's double-sided tape. Use double-sided tape anywhere you want to hold panels or hold hymns together before sewing. This makes the sewing a lot easier. So Deb's applying double-sided tape for each one of these hymns. And then we'll just take it to the sewing machine and sew it down. You can see here she's applying this double-sided tape. Once the tape's been applied, pull back the paper backing to reveal the glue and then baste the hem in place. That's all there is to it. There's the first hem and then we rolled over a second time for the second hem. You can see that paper backing has been pulled back to reveal the glue. Here we are using the Sailrite 111. We'll do a reverse to lock it in place and then just sew down that fold with hem. We're using the edge of the foot as a guide to keep that stitch straight. And here we are at the end. Once we're done, she's going to take this panel and we're going to roll it over so that we're working on the exterior side of the cover. You can see the logo there. Use that as a reference to the exterior side. If you applied your logo first, which we recommend doing. And when we work on the exterior side, we'll use again the edge of the foot as a guide to keep that stitch nice and straight. And again, we're doing about a six millimeter straight stitch. You can go longer if you like. When you get to the end, do a bar time to lock it in place. Your eyes aren't playing tricks on you. This is not the same color of Sunbrella as what you've been seeing in the bulk of this video thus far. But we've cut in this segment to talk to you about the zipper installation on the forward portion of the sale cover. And this is a very custom cover that's being built in our lock. You'll notice the length across the leading edge is pretty darn large. So we've had to go with a slightly longer zipper than normal and even any of the kits that we offer. This is a 72 inch zipper. And it actually ends up being slightly longer than what we want on the forward edge. So this is going to give us a good way of showing you a couple of things that we haven't done so far, which are, how do I shorten the distance of the length of the zipper? How much shorter should it be? And then I also want to give you a little bit better up close video of how that zipper installs on the forward edge of the cover. First thing we're going to do is we're actually going to separate the zipper. And what you'll find when we separate the zipper is that you will have one half that has the slider on it. And that's the piece that we want to now locate with one side of the cover. In other words, we want to put them on the proper piece. And the way this should happen, at least my purpose, since I'm right-handed, is I like to have the puller on what will be the pork side of the sale cover. The reason that I like that is that if you're standing on your boat and you're standing in front of the mast and you're right-handed, it is easier to take your slider. And let's assume this is attached to the fabric already. And with your right hand, start the pull and then pull it down. So we're going to put that on the pork side, which is the piece that I have facing with the outer surface up right now. Now the other piece, without the pull, we're going to put on what will be the starboard side of the cover. And you can see that I have this piece upside down right now. The way we can tell that is that the raw edge of the seam here that joins the additional piece that extends the height of the cover is facing up right now. So this is the inside of the cover. And also obviously you can see we've sewn our logo on and we're looking at the stitching for the backside. So what I want to do with the zipper here is I want to locate the starting pin that goes into the slider. And we want to make sure that that is positioned up at the top. And obviously there will be a stop, a bolded stop, here at the other end that's at the bottom. Because we need to shorten the zipper, we're actually going to be removing that stop and creating our own stop. So the first thing we want to do is decide how much shorter to make this zipper. And the answer to that is really not set in stone. In other words there is some room for what do I want to say? There are some arguments about as to which way is the best way to go. My preference is always to start zipping from the top and down, which is why I put the stop at that end. And I like to see the zipper start at least say three inches from where the actual boot top will connect at a later stage. And the boot top is the piece that will have the drawstring on it that allows you to tie the top tight. Now the reason I like to have a little bit of a gap here is that allows you to get a bit of an overlap. We'll fast forward now to the completed project to show you what Matt's talking about. Here we are and the sale cover is mostly finished at this point. So the zippers in place with the gap that we talked about in the boot top is sewn in place. And what I want to show you here is that now when you wrap this boot around the mask, you see how that folds nice and neatly there so that you can use your drawstrings to tie this in a tight fashion around the mask. Now back to our project.