 on the previous episode. What the hell is Matt here for but it feels wet which I'm scared. So when we were taking out the carpet here we noticed a lot of damage here on the floor. And this will kind of start off, started off this whole project. Um, over here we're going to be taking off all this. Over here we're going to be scraping off all the undercoding or whatever is left on here. Give it a quick little clean. Uh, it's going to vacuum it out, blow it out and see what we're working with. Assess some metal. See how far we got to do. Go with these floors. We have better wire bits. We got a regular one, a tighter one and then a round one. And with this we're going to knock out all the surface rust. Let's say like the seam sealer right here. We're going to be a reseem sealer and everything. Knock out all the rust. I'll fast forward that shit for you guys because it's going to be boring but I'll set you up for our time lapse here. Okay, so here we are, wire wheeling this. Um, the best trick actually here would probably use an angle grinder with a wire bit attached to it. I'm using a drill here with a wire cut. A little bit slower, a little bit weaker. Keep slipping off the chuck. If I were to do this again, I'd probably get the angle grinder one. But these small ones are better to get into these little tight old places. Um, we didn't see holes at first but the more we started going on it, the more orangey rust, uh, chipped away, the metal got thinner and then we started seeing holes up here in a couple different areas. Not bad. I might have to cut a patch in here but I'm going to try to fill this in. All this metal is really strong. We just take a screwdriver and just jab at it. We get rid of all the loose stuff and it just leaves all the solid stuff here. So I got small pin holes at stuff like a plug weld, plug weld, plug weld. This I might have to cut out a small, small panel. I got some metal that comes to that but we'll see what we can do by plug welding everything. So the section I just plug welded, I have another video when I did the fenders on the fenders I deleted the chrome. I used a tool, use a copper spoon behind it. Now, way you can build up your weld, you can see how I'm just pooling my weld in one spot that's on the copper spoon. It's going to build up high and then that way I could fill in that hole without having to cut it out. Um, we got to make sure that the metal is nice and all the thin metals all taken away. So you got nice strong metal to weld to. And that's why these holes came out a little bit bigger because I've been chipping away at the bad metal. Grinding had to do a little bit more grinding left there. We could see some porosity like the little still small holes. It filled focus on me. A small hole here, small hole here. That one I'm going to plug and then re-grind down. And yeah, it's looking good. All right, so grinded to where we wanted to be. This is the second pass of welding grinding. So we might actually have some pin holes not that you could physically see but there might be small, small ones. So when it comes to seam sealing, I'm just going to still put a bead of seam sealer across everything just so it fills it in. So here's another section of rust I found in the rear wheel tubs. The passenger's driver's side floor board was just as bad so I welded that off camera. This is the only other section of rust besides underneath the cowl as well. This is where the rear wheel tub meets the floor pin. So this is me just making up some templates using some masking tape and using my Milwaukee ink saw here and just using that to draw in the void here. And we're going to go put that onto a new sheet of metal, cut it out, make your templates, and then have good metal to weld in there. This one we could unfortunately plug weld because it was way too big. So using some nice, I believe, 18, 20 gauge sheet metal here, enough to cut with snips. Got our pattern right here. So we're going to cut those out. And we're going to do a little bit of finessing and trimming once we get them in the car, we'll get the rough shape, cut them out a little bit bigger than we need them. Then all of there we can trim away the fat there and get it perfectly straight. And where we wanted to bend it up in place using our hands, a hammer, a body hammer would be nice. You can see I'm using construction hammer and some tin snips here to get it in this place here. But whatever works for you works for you. Just get it in there. Do it a final clean here with the wire wheel. That way we'll be ready to get our mig out and start spot welding this. I like to add also when using a mig, you'd probably want to use a gas shielded wire. I'm using a flux core because that's what I got. You'll probably want to run a thinner wire like an O-22. I'm using like an O-35 flux core. Finner gauge wire will help you keep you from blowing out and the gas will keep the belts from being shielded. Also here, this is a seam sealer. This goes around the perimeter of the floor here. We're going to be redoing this as well. So just scrape off the old stuff using construction hammer. You use a wire wheel but just using a chisel to knock everything out. Sanded the floors, everything with 80 grit got all the adhesive off from the carpet glue. This is where the seam is. We took all the seam sealer out. That was a pain to do everything but we got it all out. Masking up. This is a final home stretch here. Got the seam sealer. This is where we're going to be placing the seam sealer. You can see I outlawned everything in tape. So when I take it off, we're going to have a nice clean line. Just putting it thicker in some areas as in wider because that's how it was from factory and a little bit thinner in the 90 degree corners but the big old vans here that go across the floor are relaying wide. I should say not thick. Just guess so. It matches what it was from the factory but a little bit more tidier than using my finger here with gloves to smooth everything out. Right side of the cardon and the left side of the cardon here. All tacked up here. We're going to be pulling the tape off in a second once this flushes over and dries a little bit. And this is how it looks like with the tape off. It took about 30 minutes to cure. You could paint over it. I left it sit for a day here. But you can see it came out really nice. I'm happy with how this turns out and it should be ready for our final step which is painting. So the stuff we're painting the floor here is at pour 15. It's a rust converting paint. So I'll take care of the rust that surfaced for us which we wire wheeled down but just that pitted section or I just where the gross kind of metal is. It's still strong but it's just going to convert the rust and give it a nice black hard coat in over it. We're doing the toe board for us and then the rear passenger floor pan splitting car and half that way I don't paint myself into a corner. We'll be painting one half of the car and then I'll flip around and I'll do the other side off camera. I made sure to put the pour 15 in a separate container. I didn't want to use a quart that it came into. I'll list everything down below in the description all the stuff that I used and quantity how much I used. This was a little bit over half a quart. Probably three quarters of a quart. I still have some left over but I want to keep the can nice and sealed that way. It doesn't harden on me. I could use it for later so it's just separate container cleaned everything up and did this half and I liked the way it turned out. It covered really good. They say you could do two thin coats. I did one medium coat because I thought that was I'm pretty sure that's all right with me. You could do it however the hell you want it. One good coat or medium coat is what worked for me and I'll probably if had to do it again I'll probably do the exact same way. So here's some pictures of how the floor looked before we started this project. And here it is afterwards. As you can see nice clean shine compared to the other stuff. And then fully completed as you can see it's a whole different floor which I believe came out great. Over 20 hours I believe invested in this work on my weekends probably took about four weekends to get this on work on get it done on and off but overall it's much better than what it came out with came in nice good product afterwards and I'm really happy with the way it turned out. So again if you guys want to do a project like this make sure you guys know what you're getting into a sandblaster what a help if a sandblaster the whole floor but again we're doing everything on a budget doing everything by ourselves proud with everything how it came out. Thanks for watching if you guys liked this video I cut down on time on everything for you guys made it a little bit more watchable. Please leave a like if you guys liked this if you want to subscribe follow the build feel free to we're going to have other stuff as well. Thanks for watching I appreciate you guys viewing stay tuned for more thank you.