 Out of what eliminate spider mites, spider mites are parasites in our nature's way of eliminating weak dying plants. If you let your plants get weak, then the spider mites will take out the garbage. Plants release a chemical scent when they're dying. And the spider mites will respond to this chemical signal. It is their job. It is your job to ensure the chemical signals weak until the very end. Spider mites destroy at least 5% of all the crops in the world. It is probably much higher percentage in the cannabis industry. The ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Spend money on equipment and time on the plants. This is a program of preventative maintenance. Do not be greedy. Greedy translates into lower quality plants and short term gain for long term loss. Greed kills. This should be your philosophy for as a grower you'll discover this is absolutely true. Greedy growers always lose the end as this is about the real world life of plants. Action speaks louder than words because plants cannot hear some con job. They need to know what they need and they need it now. And fine plants with inadequate lighting and hostile environments are just a setup for problems and a recipe for a poor low value crop that is known as hemp not medical grade marijuana. Use adequate lighting within the correct spectrum. Some stress is good. Allow the soil to dry occasionally during the vegetative cycle. This will improve the roots as they die deeper to seek water and nutrients. Spray them with neem oil weakly. Mix it up using pyrethrin as well. Spray with water the next day always to clear. Never spray with your lights on. This will burn your leaves potentially. You can spray just put a light turn on which is usually best or spraying just after lights go off. But that may cause mold problems. It will be very careful. Never spray with chemicals. Spider mites are resistant to most of them anyway. You're just poisoning your crop and the consumers. If you must spray, then only do so during the vegetative cycle. Once remember that these chemicals will damage the plant. Humans, bees, they can cause colin collapse disorder and cause damage to other living organisms including you. Never use predator mites as they also come with spedermites as feedstock. The predator mites will win the battle but lose the war. They will eat all the spider mites and then cannibalize themselves and then die off. Spider mites will come back but the predator mites will not. You will have to buy predator mites forever. Even this approach may work if you're really stuck but it cannot fix a crop already in trouble if it is too late. You can run an integrated pest management control system but it is expensive. It can actually hurt as a predator mites will actually bite you. Never allow anyone else to do a grow room and never visit another grow room. Never allow animals like dogs into your grow room because they can have mites on them as well. Never bring another plant into your grow room. No exceptions. Everything should be quarantined if you have starting with other plants. You should always start from seed. Create your mother plant and use only clones cut from that selected mother plant. And never try to minimize your cloning of clones because they become weaker and that will affect track to spider mites. Plant has been cloned too many times and will become highly susceptible to spider mites. Allow the mother plant to regenerate for at least two weeks before taking any more cuttings off that after you initially cut. This ensures a stronger clone and keeps the mother from getting too weak. Never clone a clone as inherently weak when we set up with more disease. Never clone a plant that will be care guess this is why strains die off. Spider mites will be tracked to the weak clones of clones. Use F1 hybrids preferably as they have hybrid vigor and will be much stronger and thus more resistant to spider mites. Never prune more than 30% at any time as it weakens the plant. Never reuse soil. Spider mit eggs will be in the soil as well as the plant. You must treat you soil with UV lights and it's just not worth the risk. Never spray your buds with anything. Not even water. Do not believe the chemical companies. Once the white pistols appear they do not allow anything to touch the pistols. Water will cause botritis which is bud rod. Pyrethins will ruin the taste and poison it. Aved will cause issues with it. The buds will absorb all the poisons. Distant church and anything else will at least turn the pistols red prematurely. Spraying chemicals in the bud will make the cannabis taste horrible. It will cause some back throat irritation and slight stomach ache. Keep the temperature down. Spider mites increase breeding when it gets hot and dry and under stress. The colder the better, especially at the end, keep the temperatures below 75 degrees Fahrenheit and ideally keep dropping the temperatures through the last two weeks. You want lots of light but in cool dry about 40% relative humidity conditions. This will form tight dense buds and will slow the spider mites cycle. Grow your plant correctly during the vegetative cycle. The right amount of green according to the strain. You do not want new chip luck going into the flowering cycle. Spray everything you want up until the white pistols appear and then stop spraying. There is now a battle between you and the spider mites. Hopefully they will not take too much. They will look for the weak ones at the edge of the garden. Keep your plants pruned naked for about 25% of the bottom part of the plant. This makes it more difficult for the spider mites to hop leaves. They cycle from the dirt below up to the bottom of the plant and then they keep moving their way up and eventually building webs at the top and then leaping to other plants. Always remove dead and dying plant material. So you are not providing a home for them. Keep your grow room clean. Keep your plants separated. Never let them touch. This approach will also reduce powdery mildew. Keep a good wind on them without burning the leaves. Spider mites do not like wind because they get virtually blown away in the wind. But that may be good for them because they may land on other plants. But in the main part they do not like it. You may have to sacrifice some of the plant in terms of pruning so that a smaller portion is healthy versus a larger plant that is unhealthy. Pruning will result in a bigger, stronger buds but fewer of them. You are always balancing the energy needs of either yield or quality. I firmly believe in the quality approach that really pays off in the long run. Always use CO2. It will not kill spider mites but rather keep the plant healthier and more resistant to spider mites by being healthier. Feed with the appropriate levels of nutrients and vitamins so the spider mites will keep away. I have actually my own bug juice that I developed but I am still testing that. For more on this, we seek to the paint curse by Billy Bud.