 Hello and welcome to another edition of the sewing guru. And for this particular video, I'm going to show you the second technique for inserting the lining into a centre back vent. Okay, now I'm going to just show you the panels that I've cut out for this centre back. Okay, just to show you what they look like with the lining corresponding to the main body panels. Okay, now as you can see, we've got here the lining and we have here the main panels. And they are exactly the same. Okay, so you need to cut out your panels exactly the same. As you can see, these panels are identical. The lining is identical to the outer. Okay, so you've got your vent here the same as the vent on the outer as well. Okay, so we're just going to discard the lining panels for now. And the first thing what we need to do is just fuse our vent part. Okay, so I'm just using a fabric which is a calico and I'm just going to show you with this. So for me it doesn't really matter but you need to put the interfacing on the wrong side. Okay, so first of all grab your interfacing part and stick that onto the wrong side of the fabric. So you've got your right side facing inward like so. Okay, so just press this, just press this fusing part onto the wrong side of the cloth. That's the first thing you need to do. Okay, so we'll just fuse this on. Okay, and we need to do this on both panels. So just fuse that on. Make sure it's really really nicely stuck on and I'll do the other side as well. Like so just put that on there. Just stick this fusing on. Just make sure that this fusing is really really secure onto the fabric. Okay, so when you're happy that you've put your fusing on and it's secure, the next thing what we need to be doing is attaching these center back panels together. Now if you've got a zip in remember to keep a gap for the concealed zip. Okay, but I'm just going to just stitch up the entire center back. Okay, because this is just to show you the vent part of how to do this second technique. So what we're doing is get some pins and pin the right sides together so that you're looking at the wrong sides. Okay, just pin these together. Like so. And what we're doing is you're stitching from if you like I said if you've got a concealed zip or you have a zip in the center back you need to be stitching down from from the end point of the zip. Okay, and you need to be stitching right along the center back here a centimeter in until you reach this point here and then stitch to about here but leaving a gap, leave a gap of about a centimeter before you reach the end. So if I put a pin there leaving a gap just stitch to where I've just put that pin there stitch along to this point here. Okay, so when you've done that and you've stitched along here, okay, and you've stitched to this point here I'll just show you that there's a gap like so so you can open that up like so there's a gap and it's about a centimeter in from the edge. What you need to do is just slit the corner point here with some scissors and just slit into the stitching line here and open this out. Okay, and what we're doing is we're going to be opening up this seam. Now because this is a sample I've got mine stitched right to the top but of course if you've got a zip you would stitch up to the zip. Oh, if you've already got your zip in then that's where you would of open this up to. Okay, now I'm going to be having my vent facing over this way. So we'll just press this in making sure that this is all neat and straight at this bottom end. Okay, just press this down. Like so. Now if you want to you can just cut this so that it's all straight like so and then we have a really nice straight vent, okay? So the second part what we need to be doing now is turn over your main body part so you can see the wrong side facing you when the seams and everything. Okay, and we're going to be now positioning the lining ready for a certain part to be cut in a certain way. Okay, so you've got your lining panels. I'll just press that. Like so. You've got your lining panels and they're identical because the both got this part here which flicks out for the vent. Okay, now one of the sides has to be cut in a certain way. And the side which needs to be cut in this certain way is where the vent carries on. Of course you've got this part here so then the lining has to be shorter. At this point here the lining has to be cut shorter. So what you're doing is you're cutting your lining in this shape. So the way to do that is position your lining on top of the body pieces and have them so that the correct sides are facing you because some linings, some linings are the same either side. You know it's the same on this side as it is on this side but then you've got other sides which are shiny on one side and dull on the other. Now if you're using a lining like that you need to have the correct side facing you. So say you're working with the shiny side you need to position your lining with the shiny side facing you. Okay, so it's the correct way. So you've got the wrong side facing in on each other. Okay, now this side is a side we're going to be working with. Okay, because that's the side on this side. Okay, so we have here I have looking at this the right hand side is what's going to be cut inside. Okay, so what you do if you because you know that this is the one this is the piece take away everything else and simply just fold this over just press it down just fold this over. Now there is markings on your lining pieces on the pattern. Okay, so you don't need to do that. Don't press it too much otherwise you're going to get this line when you've done it but what you need to do is cut so you've basically what you've done is you fold this to there and this now is your marked line. So just cut this like so but don't go right to the top. Okay, leave a gap because this part has to come down longer. Okay, so what you're doing is put a pin here like so and I'll put a pin. Okay, all it is is just a guide. It's just it's just a guide and you can see this on your pattern piece as well. Okay, there's your guide and just slit this alongside the pins like so. Take the pins out and slit up there like so. Okay, so you then have this piece cut out like so and of course this here is longer if I show you the other piece. If I should this is the other piece this part is you can see it comes down now longer than this part. Right, so when you've done that and you've cut that out what you need to do is you need to attach these pieces together. Okay, so of course what we're doing is you've got your wrong sides facing each other and just pin these together like so. And what you're doing is you're stitching down to this point here where this goes like so, this point here, you're stitching a centimeter in to this point here. Okay, from here right along, right along to the top or you would basically stitch to the point of the bottom of the zip. Okay, so stitch along there to whichever point you're going to. Okay, so as you can see we're stitched right along here and I haven't stitched right to the end because there is a gap. As you can see I can fold that over and you can clearly see that the stitching stops where there's a gap here as a fold over but it's basically in line if I turn this over you can see that it's in line with this point here. Okay, where it starts to go it's in line there. Okay, so the next thing what you need to do you don't need to press the lining at this point. Okay, open up your lining so that the right sides are facing you and position it onto the the actual fabric pieces of the body of the garment. Okay, so you've got the wrong sides facing in in each other. And this large part what we need to be doing is attaching that to this overlap part here. Okay, so position that on there like so and that needs to be in like so. Okay, so what you're doing is turn that over and you need to be stitching well attaching first of all attaching this part, this lining part to this part of the actual body. Fabric pieces and just put a few pins in there just to secure like so. Okay, so that is attaching itself onto that part of the vent. Okay, and what you're doing is attaching that all the will to the top. Okay, right up to the top of there. Okay, and you can see where your your gauges because the stitching has stopped about a centimetre before the edge here. Okay, so you want to be stitching right along just on the edge of that stitch in there just pass that right along to this point here attaching this lining part to that part of the vent. Right, so you can see that I've stitched along here catching lining in right away to the top. Okay, so there's no gap right at the very top there. Okay, and I've also just grazed past this stitching line here, the end point here of this part of stitching right to this point here. So just grazed it and gone past it right to the top. When you've done that you just need to press this. So just give this a press. Okay, so you can see this here this part of the vent is just coming up beyond this part here. So just give this a press down like so. Okay, like that. And this part what we have to do now is attach this part onto this part of the vent here. Okay, so I'll just show it again. That's how the lining is going to be looking. So you can sort of see what we're getting here. We're getting like a kind of a sort of a zed shape. That's how it's going to look in the end. Okay, so take this out the way, fold that out the way like that. This part of the lining like so just turn that over and attach it onto this part of the vent here. So just put a few pins making sure that the bottom starts where the bottom of the lining is. So both, both Hems are a complete in alignment here and stitch. Just attach this right along to there. Now as you can see here, you can clearly see that this is shaped like so. Okay, so what you're doing is you stitching just to this point here where that gap is. So then that really, really lies neatly. Okay, so you can see here that that's where you want to be stitching to. Okay, to this point here. Okay, don't stitch right along. Where this point here, where they've got this kind of L shape, that's where you want to be stitching from. So if I put a pin there, like so, just put a pin there like that, that's where you want to be stitching from right along to here. Okay, so you can see if you turn it over that you have stitching to this point here, that's where you want to be stitching from. So then you've got this gap and it's left. Okay, so stitch from here down to this point here. Right, when you've done that, you'll have stitched along here up to this point here because there's a gap as you can see. So I've stitched to this point here. Okay, and what you need to do is just turn that over and now give this a press. Like so. Just give this a press. It's just a nice press down. So you can see now that the vent is now starting to form. Okay, and the last part, what we need to do is just get this nice, this nice V-bit. Okay, so what you need to do is on this side, okay, we're talking on this side of the vent, not this side, this side of the vent, you can see that the fabric is like so. The shape here is this L shape. So what you need to do is you just need to slit just the lining part into the stitching where that L shape starts. Okay, so just slit that only the lining into there like so. So you've got this slit of a gap. So then what that does is it help lies this fabric flat. Yeah, so you can see that that now you can turn it and it now lies flat where it wants to lie. So if I put a pin there, just to show you, just put a pin in there like so. What that does is it gives this nice, this nice line here and there's nothing distorted, there's nothing, there's nothing pulling, nothing, it's just nice. So when you stitch that, that's going to be a real nice slit. And then on the other side, again, where that little V part is, you need to do the same underlining on that side. Okay, so just slit that as well to the stitching. And what that will do is that will make that sit exactly where the lining wants to sit. So as you can see, that there is where the lining is now going to sit. So what you can do is make sure that everything's facing this way. Yeah, and just give this a bit of a press. Give it a bit of a press so you can sort of see where you're going. And what you need to do is you need to just grab this part here of the lining and also this part of the actual vent on the outer fabric. And actually you can leave that pin in and put a pin in there as well. Okay. So just move all this out the way, make sure it's lying flat. Make sure that this is all lying flat. So what, just take that out. Yeah, just give that a bit of a press. So just lies flat on there. And in fact, what I'll do is I'll put this pin in the other way around. So I can show you what what happens when that's stitched. Okay, you can see that that now is all lying flat. That'll go, that'll be further in there like so. Okay, so you need just make sure that all of this is lying flat onto there. So first of all, grab the under part of the lining. Make sure that's sitting on there like so. And then grab, make sure the top part of the lining is sat on top and put a pin through the whole lot. Put a pin through the whole lot as well. Where you've slipped that, that's where you're stitching too. Okay, turn it over the right way to see if it's all lying correctly, which that is. That's lying quite neatly. Okay. So what you're doing is you are stitching from here, from the slit, where that stitching is there, from there, right across to this point here. Okay, so you've got the gauge where that's been slit, there, from there, right along to this point here. So what I like to do is make sure that all of this is out of the way. Yeah, and just stitch on this side because you've got the gauge points you see. You've got the gauge points where they are. Okay, and make sure that you can see where that starts. So put a pin through. Put a pin through. Yeah, and you can see that that's where that part is going to be starting from. Okay, take that out. So what you're going to be doing is stitching from here to this point here. Right, so what we've done is just stitched across here, catching all of this in right along. And as you can see, that that's stitched right up until this point here. And when we turn it over, you've got this nice sort of z-shap with noregaps at all. So what we need to do is just press this down now. Just press this. So you've got noregaps like so. And now just turn this over and just press this lining open. Of course, to the point down here, okay, where it's attached on the vent. So just press this open. Just press this right along. Okay, just take your time with this. It's a little tricky, but you will get there. Just take your times, a bit of patience. And you will get there. So just make sure that this seam is open right along. Keep pressing this down. Like so. And then you can have this now lying flat. Oh, it looks a lot better when it's pressed. So much nicer, so much neater. Okay, so there we have this kind of z-shap, okay, where the lining just fits nicely into the vent. Okay, so it's nice there. And here, if we turn it over, we've just got this lovely vent, which just carries right along to the seam. Okay, and it's completely finished. So what this method does is it actually keeps the lining in the center back. Okay, and it follows the center back same right along, instead of the other method, which I showed you where the lining was off center, going along here and then eventually meeting the center back. Okay, so there isn't a wrong way and there isn't a right way of doing this. Okay, it's totally down to your discretion. But this is how the industry do it with this little z-shap. Okay, that's the main, the main technique of how it's done in the industry.