avocado green harvest gold powder blue
dingy white and maybe bubblegum pink I'm
not talking about your favorite shades
of paint I'm actually talking about the
old bathtubs sinks tiles and fixtures in
your bathroom that could cost thousands
of dollars
to rip out and replace well thankfully
with bath works so we do not have to
replace them we can refinish them this
is a top of the line commercial grade
refinishing kit that we could transform
a bathroom and as little as an afternoon
I use bath works in my old 1970s shower
and it looked great so I wanted to help
one of my neighbors get the same result
in her 1970s home guess what she has a
powder blue tub so in this video you're
going to get to see step-by-step how we
transform this 1970s powder blue tub
into an amazing glossy long-lasting
finish and it's only going to take
probably about a few hours and maybe one
or two kids stick with me because I'm
going to show you how to do it before we
begin let's quickly review what's in
every bathtub refinishing kit and talk a
little bit about safety the kit comes
with part a color Part B hardener a
non-skid additive liquid primer and
etching cleaner and you'll also get a
paint tray sandpaper a tack cloth gloves
a stick for mixing a foam brush and two
paint rollers but there are a few items
you'll need to gather on your own you
will need some Ajax or Comet a razor
blade scraper paper towels a mask trash
bags painters tape a blow-dryer and a
fan or a proper vent and be sure to
thoroughly review the instructions
before you begin and have plenty of air
ventilation also if you have old shower
doors you'd like to remove you should
remove them before beginning scrape off
any leftover sealant as well after
clearing out all of your personal
belongings and making sure that there's
positive air flow as well as good
ventilation in the work area at all
times we are now ready to clean the
bathtub it's important to start by
cleaning your bathtub thoroughly scrub
the bathtub with Ajax or Comet and pay
special attention to the heavy soap
areas any residual soap
residue left on the surface after
cleaning will prevent bonding and cause
failure we do not want this to happen
it's not uncommon to clean your surface
at least two or three times just to make
sure that you've removed all of the soap
and all of the Ajax are common and when
you think it's clean go ahead and clean
it once more you can never be too sure
this step is very very important after
thoroughly cleaning the tub if you'd
like use a razor blade or sharp scraper
to remove the caulk around the bathtub
or walls this bathtub only had caulk
along the floor so I did remove that so
now that this tub is completely cleaned
at least two or three times we can now
move on to the next step which is the
razor blade test we want to make sure
that all the soap scum is really gone so
by running the razor over the tub it
should tell us whether or not we've
removed all the soap scum so let's give
it a try you want to pay special
attention to areas under soap trays and
around drain areas please be careful
when using the razor when I gently wiped
off the razor I saw that I hadn't rinsed
the tub very well so had to rinse it
again
for a third time and I used the scotch
brite pad to wipe as I rinsed and of
course after scrubbing and rinsing again
you'll want to scrape the tub just to
make sure that it's clean and this tub
was definitely clean but there is one
more cleaning step you'll need to do
scrub the bathtub thoroughly with the
scotch brite pad or sponge using the
etching cleaner provided with warm water
we're ready for the easy edge the easy
edge kit will allow us to create that
undeniable bond between the refinishing
kit and the tub now we're only going to
use this on porcelain glass or ceramics
we're not going to use it on fiberglass
plastic or acrylics this easy etch pace
will help to remove any residual finish
from your bathtub use the scotch brite
pad provided and spread it throughout
the entire surface paying particular
attention to the drain area and don't
forget the front now if this is a
clawfoot cast-iron steel bath tub or
you're doing sinks and tiles leave it on
for 20 to 30 minutes this is the colored
tub so we're going to leave this on for
30 to 40 and then rinse it really well
next while your bathtub is still wet use
the sandpaper that came in your
refinishing kit to thoroughly sand down
the tub you'll want to pay particular
attention again to the drain and rinse
really well if you have removed old
shower doors you'll likely have some
holes that need to be patched or you may
just have some chips in your tub you
want to fill those now using the bath
works chip repair kit follow the
instructions in the kit for how to patch
and sand it smooth before moving on to
the next step if you've got a detachable
shower head give it a little shake to
remove excess water then use a latex
glove to prevent water from dripping
onto the shower place it over the
showerhead tie it into a knot for extra
security and I always recommend tying a
trash bag as well in case there's any
leaking you'll also want to do the same
for the tub spout again tie it into a
knot so it's extra secure once the
faucets above and below have been
secured we're confident that there's no
water they could drop on this tub we are
ready to dry the tub with a blow dryer
we have to make sure that we completely
remove any moisture from this bathtub or
it could cause the product to fail and
we don't want that we want long-lasting
results be sure to dry all the parts of
the bathtub including the walls using
the blow dryer completely dry the
surface of the bathtub this is very very
important again any moisture left on the
surface could cause the product to fail
and I know you want great results so pay
particular attention to ensuring that
the drain area is very dry as well when
the surfaces are very dry use painters
tape around the bathtub and around any
parts that need protection including the
tub drain
your bathtub refinishing kit comes with
a tack cloth use the tech cloth rubbing
it over the entire surface cleaning any
foreign materials from the bathtub or
wall area at this point your bathtub
should be smooth and ready to be rolled
you're now ready for the liquid primer
you'll pour the entire 1 ounce bottle of
liquid primer onto the bottom of the
bathtub using several paper towels
spread the material over the entire
surface now remember the paper towels
will most likely soak up most of the
liquid primer so having a bunch of paper
towels will prevent tearing and allow
you to spread the primer much easier and
again pay particular attention to the
drain area and don't forget the front of
the tub pour the entire Part B hardener
into part a color you want to mix it up
really good and after you've mixed it
let it sit for 5 minutes if your kit
includes a non-slip additive pour
approximately one to two ounces of mix
material into the provided non-slip
container and using the same stir mix it
really well and then pour the mixture
into the middle of your bathtub use your
small yellow roller rolling lightly both
vertically and horizontally over the
same area several times to create a
smooth even rectangle and let this area
dry for 10 minutes before moving on
if you've removed shower doors you'll
want to spray on a very thin coat of an
oil-based primer called kills primer
over the area where there was silicone
caulk under the doors be sure to use
paper towels to prevent any overspray
it's now time to paint pour the rest of
the a B mixture into the paint tray and
use your foam brush to dab the paint all
around the edges where the roller won't
fit this will typically be along the
caulk line of the bathtub next using the
four inch wide roller roll the first
coat of paint towards yourself and
remember do not dry roll this is very
important you always want to make sure
that you have a good amount of paint on
your roller and as you're painting
starting with the sides you want to make
sure that you reload that roller often
you want to keep it very wet
a good rule of thumb to remember to make
this project easier to work and cleaner
is to roll the inside walls of the
bathtub followed by the curves in the
bottom and you'll also want to save the
front of the bathtub for last a second
coat can be applied right away following
the same pattern but be careful not to
lean on the wet surfaces and you'll want
to dispose of all the unused materials
in garbage as soon as you've completed
the job keeping it away from open flames
children animals or those sensitive to
paint fumes and of course obey all the
city and town codes for proper paint
disposal
after 45 minutes you are now able to
remove the painters tape very carefully
remove it at a 45 degree angle
after removing the painters tape if you
see any edges that need to be cleaned up
go ahead and do that now but keep in
mind these edges will most likely be
covered up with caulk oh my goodness
this bathtub looks amazing but we're not
done yet we have to let this dry for 24
hours we'll come back tomorrow and do
the back works pro caulking gun in 1
it'll literally take all of two minutes
to caulk this bathtub and that's it we
will be done and my neighbor will have a
beautiful new bathtub I can't wait for
her to see it it's just beautiful once
the tub has thoroughly dry for 24 hours
use the bath works caulking gun and wine
with the adjustable trigger to easily
apply the caulk and then use your finger
to smooth it out this is the easiest
caulk to use because there's no caulk
gun it comes pre-cut and each time you
get really great clean professional
looking results so we're all done with
this bathroom makeover and I have to
tell you it looks amazing my neighbor is
going to love it
so I've proven to you that you don't
have to live with an old avocado green
harvest gold dingy white powder blue or
bubblegum pink fixture in your bathroom
you can refinish it so for more
information about the back works
refinishing kit or any of these products
that you've seen in this video be sure
to go back-to-back - works net for more
information and you can have a beautiful
bathroom - thanks for watching