let's go ahead and take this old rusted
chisel and turn it into something usable
again
first thing i do with anything old and
rusty like this is take it to the wire
wheel
it'll reveal any kind of cracks or
chipped
cutting edges
after i've cleaned it up on the wire
wheel
i take it over to my glass right here
it's a
old front from an entertainment center
and i use the scary sharp method i
believe that's what it's called and it's
just using sandpaper to
do all your sharpening and the things
that
i have is the sandpaper whatever you're
sharpening
a permanent marker and some
painters tape the painters tape is to
use to hold
the sandpaper down and the
marker you'll see later is why i have
that
the first step i use is getting a low
grade a piece of sandpaper
this is one 150 and the
step that i take first is i'll be
cleaning up this back side
to make sure it's all flat
after i've gotten the chisel completely
flat on the back side
i grabbed some blue painters tape and
i'll use that same 150 grit
and i'll just tape it down on the top
and the bottom sides to get ready for
sharpening the cutting edge
i've already placed my chisel into this
little sharpening jig from stanley
it's set for cutting the bevel at a 25
degree angle
and i picked this up at a yard sale for
like a dollar
it was a great buy i highly recommend
getting one from one of these
you can find them all online from
rockler woodcraft
all those kind of places they make
sharpening a whole lot easier
and of course you can do it free hand
but this
is more accurate to get repeated cuts
with it set up for the 25 degree bevel
all i'm doing is i'm placing the blade
down
and i'm just pulling backwards
make sure that you have even pressure
going all the way across
after i get done with that 150 grit
i go ahead and move up to a 220
then a 500 then a thousand and
1200 and i stopped there usually
because i don't have anything higher in
sandpaper and i don't have a sharpening
stone
or like a wet stone or oil stone right
now but i plan on getting that and that
should make it even sharper
so let's go ahead and finish uh
sharpening it with the
220.
all right i'm up on the 1000 grit now
and before you saw me going back and
forth
like that there's nothing wrong with it
it removes material a little bit more
quickly
but going back like this keeps that burr
keep on going over to this back side
we're pushing it you're moving material
back and forth
but this does the job you you push it
you're cutting you're pulling
and you're cutting instead of just
reaching out
and pulling it like that now
after you do this a couple times
you can go ahead and check your blade or
your cutting edge
and the reason why i have this permanent
marker here
is that you can take it and swipe it
back and forth over your blade like that
take it and let it sit there for a
second or two
let it dry
and then what you can do to make sure
that you're getting your cut good
is that by the time you'll
you'll know you have a flat surface
whenever
all this stuff is getting removed you
see how there's no more
the black's not there anymore
so you take it and you just
do it until all your permanent marker is
gone
and it's pretty much like when you're
flattened flattening a piece of wood by
hand
you can draw pencil lines across it and
then when all your pencil lines are gone
you know you
have a flat surface so you're doing
pretty much the same thing with the
marker
thanks for watching this video as i
refurbished my stanley wood chisel
number 60
and also showed you guys my current
sharpening system if you guys like this
video please like and share it as well
as subscribe to my youtube channel for
more woodworking and blacksmithing
videos each week
and don't forget to check out last
week's video as well for the palette
made desktop
organizer
you