hi everyone it's Rachel from the
stitched sisters here and Nikki and I
are filming a video so to show you how
to cut a zip into a line stress and
we've had a number of people in class
ask about this recently so we thought
the easiest thing to do would be to
actually film your video so this is a
lovely dress that Nikki has made she's
got to the point where she's sewn
everything it's all ready to go set to
the hem and the zip so I just show you
on this dress it's not a fully lined
dress it goes to the weight but the same
principle would apply if you have a
fully lined dress it wouldn't make any
difference okay so before we can
actually insert of it we need to decide
what kind of it we want to put in so for
this kind of dress which is an evening
dress I would usually choose a lamp or
an exposed just because I think that
they give you the nicest finish and if
you've chosen an exposed look for this
dress so before we can do anything else
we actually need to press under our seam
allowance there's a 5/8 seam allowance
and we're going to be pressing it along
the back of the dress and so just for
the opening down to where the stitches
at centre-back stop and right up the top
of the back of the dress but we're also
they're going to continue pressing the
lining under at 5/8 until the end of
that so right from the bottom of the
lining all the way down to the other one
there if you had a fully lined dress and
it's somewhere along here you would have
an opening which again will your
stitches have been sewn from the hem up
to the bottom of the lid opening so that
whole area meetings between would need
to be pressed so let's go I've gone
ahead and pressed under the seam
allowance at 5/8 and I've done that on
the dress fabric and then I continued
that into the lining section as well and
now what we're going to need to do is to
position our zip between the two layers
so I've got here as 22 inch standard
dresses and it's one with nylon teeth
which I would recommend at the beginning
and feel if you're new to this and then
metal ones are a little bit more
certificates and if you hit the teeth
then you're going to break your needle
but with nylon that if you accidentally
sew on them you can just don't pick it
and they should still work so what we
need to do first of all is to take the
top a difficut here that extends above
the zipper head just going to fold that
out of the way so that we can then take
the dip and insert it between the two
layers so I've got my lining on the back
and my dress fabric on the front and I'm
just going to go ahead and insert that
and I'm going to pin through both of the
layers as I go now you'll notice that I
am pinning perpendicular to the seam and
that is to allow me to be able to and
sew right up close to these pins before
I need to take them out and technically
you should really base this in place and
that means that you is going and sewing
needle and thread and you'd hand stitch
that in place and that way you can
guarantee that it's not actually going
to move whilst you're sewing it but
we're going for the quick and easy
option here so I'm just going to
continue pinning that all the way down
along the zip and I'll come back to you
when that's done and to make you'll be
ready to say the first side of the bit
okay they just handed it over to me now
and I'm going to do the actual sewing so
we've pinned it all in place and I just
took my zipper foot onto my machine and
got in a middle position at the zipper
foot on the right hand side so that I
can get close to the zipper teeth like
that I am going to start before I start
to do actually so I'm going to move the
zipper head
out of the way just for that first
couple of inches so that it doesn't get
in my way I can get started and then I
will stop and I'll show you what to do
when we get to that point
so gotten down as far as I want to get
defer need to move the zipper head out
of the way again so I've stopped as my
needle down my machine does this
automatically but you may find that you
need to do it manually and then I'm just
going to lift my foot
and I'm going to swivel the fabric
around and I'm just going to either take
these pins out first I'm going to pull
the zip head back up out of the way so
that it doesn't get in my way for the
rest of sewing and then it's all sorted
and sometimes can be a bit fiddly but
there we go go on I sit back down and
off we go
i Nick you've sewn in the first half of
the zip and you can see it looks lovely
and neat on the outside and the inside
and now what we need to do is sew the
other half is it now the reason we're
doing this in two stages is quite
important so whenever you're putting a
zip in a dress you will have a waist
theme so in this case we've got a
waistband so there's actually two things
and I think it's quite important to get
a nice professional look to make sure
that where you can see that but to make
sure that the waist seams are continuing
so they meeting on the other side of the
zip because what you don't want is to
sew it together then end up like that so
what we're going to do first of all is
we're going to get those matched so I'm
going to just hold that in place and pop
my pin and secure that and do the same
with the other one it may be that you
need to do that a couple of times to
actually get it right so for instance
I've got a little ruffle bear now so I
think this one can probably move down a
tiny bit I think that seems just coming
out a bit there there we go
and that
for a better match now that I've got
those matched I can actually open the
zip just turn it anger it around right
pinhead there there we go and it's much
easier to now attach the rest of the
zipper tape with just the one half but
now that I've got that match then I know
that once I sew it up it's still going
to meet when that's done so I'm going to
go ahead and pin the rest of this bit
just a bit the first so that the lining
is folded down and the zipper tape is
being sandwiched in between and then
right the way down to the bottom and
then already sewn the second off so
we've got all pins night and we've
undone it at this point we're going to
sew from the top down to the bottom of
the zip it's important to still do it in
the same direction because if there's
going to be any mismatch you're pushing
it back down to the bottom but it also
means that is continuous and everything
was making sense so I switched my lips
fit around so my zipper foot is now on
the left-hand side and I've gone I
should go into the right hand position
that will get me a slightly closer and
I'll pop the fit down and we're ready to
start so here we be loving the key
wearing just finished strap so that any
of you spin around for is no key then we
can see the exposed fit in the back so a
Verity that an equal amount of is it all
the way on both sides and and it looks
so lovely when I said we hope that is
helpful to you I'm hoping you can follow
along and do the thing with your dresses
best of luck if you need any other
tutorials to pop a message below and
we'll see what we can do bye
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