I guess I'm gonna throw my hat into this
color sanding and buffing made easy
there's a lot of information on YouTube
a lot of written articles that you can
find online from like you know Hot Rod
Magazine or you know this shop or that
shop will tell you how to do it this way
or that way and a lot of fancy tools
that da Sanders that squirt the water on
the panel for you and those crazy dual
head figure eight moving buffing things
or whatever else let's keep it simple
shall we let's say you're like me you're
doing this in your garage you're maybe
working on your own car or you're doing
this for a friend or a customer and
you're making a little bit of money off
of it or something but you still want to
produce a nice high-quality finish dare
I say it's show-worthy
quite frankly this is probably all
you're gonna need let's start with the
sandpaper this is some 600 grit which I
know well really aggressive we'll get to
that in a second some 1500 grit mm and
if you can find it
3000 grit this is from a 3m this is
there tries AK stuff and to quote Kevin
Tate's this ax last year forty forevers
if you can't find that 2500 work - a
soft sanding block a hard sanding block
which I really only use this thing now
for a squeegee some multi-step rubbing
and polishing compounds they do have a
single component stuff McGuire's makes a
solo compound and there's a the norton
ice liquid ice something-or-other I
don't like that stuff I prefer the
multi-step that seems to work better for
me the single component stuff you just
changed out your pads through various
different grades of pads and
I've just never had good luck with it so
McGuire is 105 which is the rubbing
compound and the 205 which is the
polishing compound you're going to need
a wool bonnet make sure it's a buffing
wool pad they do have a polishing wool
pad which that won't cut hardly anything
at all and I prefer the polishing pads
that are the foam style you're also
going to need a little spur tool to
clean your wool pad off with a bucket of
water and a towel to hold the water to
put on the panel you could use a squirt
bottle if you want to but this video I
think I'm gonna use just the towel and
just sponge it on there I'm going to
break this video and do a couple
different sections we're going to do the
first half on sanding and then the
second half will be buffing so here we
go
so before we cut into it if you look at
the panel as it sits right now it is
shiny but there's some dirt nibs there
are just some imperfections in the panel
like that and it's got kind of like that
factory textured kind of look to it
which there's nothing wrong with it I
mean this looks fine as is right now but
taking it that little extra step is
going to really send it over the top
we're going to take our soft block and
we're going to use
our 600 grit now I know 600 is really
aggressive and this is more so for
sanding primer to get it ready for
liquid a metallic color but the only
purpose we're going to use our 600 for
is just to break down the kind of the
first layer to clear not layer I'm sorry
sort of the top surface of the clear and
we're not trying to make it flat all
we're gonna do is just kind of to break
it open I guess you could say and we're
not gonna get fussy about sectioning it
out or anything like that now a little
bit of tips on sanding keep your fingers
keep that in mind and use these as a
guide to stay away from your edges since
we're starting off a 600 grit this is
really aggressive you don't want to
gouge it in the style I'm here and you
also don't want to sand on these edges
at all the clear is probably the most
thin right here on this edge and if you
grind over that too much you're gonna
burn it right off the panel then you're
gonna have to respray it so all I'm
gonna do is just lightly go over this
with the 600
you also don't have to push down very
hard with this eater the weight of your
hand the block and the sandpaper is
going to do the job for you and all
you're doing is guiding it
so once we go horizontal then we're
going to come back we're going to go
vertical there's a couple folks out
there in the D circle standing I'm not
comfortable with it I've never
personally done it so I couldn't tell
you if that works or not and I'm not one
to try this on somebody else's car
either
see right here I'm coming up to the edge
but I've got my fingers here to kind of
guide me so I'm not running into it walk
over the other side see you can see that
even better now very important might
seem like an oxymoron to somebody that's
been doing this for a while but for
those that dumb no you need to know that
and that's it it's all we're going to do
with the 600 set that off to the side
squeeze you get off
the other way just to make sure we got
it all so after I've let it dry off
really quickly this is all you really
want to do with the 600 is we're just
trying to break down kind of like that
top little I don't know coat skin or
whatever you want to call it so now this
is going to give us a lot less
resistance once we start to sand it with
our 1500 and you can see some of the
dirt nibs have been broken down okay so
now we're searching over to our 1,500
keep in mind of her edges especially
when you're going front-to-back that
your fingers can't help you keep in mind
you want to stay away from that you can
always come back with a little piece and
just kind of very lightly sand it if you
want to just to make sure you get those
things
now we're going to come back the other
way
now I don't know what the camera picked
that up but there's kind of a funny
sound once you start to hear something
else that's happening underneath your
sandpaper it's probably a dirt nib or a
dust speck or some type of contamination
that all it's doing is rubbing in
between the panel and your sandpaper
when you hear that sound squeegee off
reapply the water and continue sanding
if you keep sanding with that little
dirt speck or some sort of contamination
underneath your sandpaper all you're
doing is scratching the panel when you
go to buff it out you will see it once
you squeegee off the panel come here
don't do that
Reese oak your little piece and your
paper continue working
right there hold on let me go get the
camera see if I can give you a really
good example of that sound
I lost a dirt nib but
well okay let me just so we're not
wasting anything here when you're doing
your color sanding this is the only
sound you want to hear
once you start to hear a sound
in-between that it'll kind of sound like
ice once you hear that squeegee off the
water cuz there's something else
underneath there like a dirt nib or some
something that's trapped that's only
scratching the panel and you're not
surface correcting it at that point
squeegee it off and check where we're at
hopefully this picks up in the camera
but most of our flat area is now
surfaced down and it's all uniform one
color but we still have some texture
right along our edges come on focus
there's still a little speck right there
and then all the edge I haven't really
messed with it too much all along here
so now we know where to kind of
concentrate a little more because this
is fine now we can move on to 2000 and
take it home from there so now that
we've got everything mostly flattened
out with our 1500 now we're going to
switch to our 2003 Pete's process
all right so I want to try and keep this
as quick as possible because watching
someone sand something to be honest to
me is pretty boring so now that we've
got everything taken down with our two
thousand grit repeating the same process
as we did with our 1500 now we're going
to swap over to our try Zack paper which
is 3000 grit we're gonna change it up
just a little bit we're still gonna go
up down left and right but then we're
gonna finish it on a cross pattern
whether or not that really helps to
paddle out I don't know it's just what
I've been doing
now with this stuff it does require a
hook it block I don't happen to have one
so all I'm going to do just grab it on
the sides and use it that way and with
the Tri Zack paper this doesn't require
as much water as the 1,500 and 2,000
grit papers do so all we're gonna do is
come in here let it down
dump the paper in the water and that's
probably all we're going to use
and with the 3000 this is going to just
graze the surface to get rid of those
2,000 grit scratches and almost put a
gloss in the panel and you don't have to
really be careful with the 3000 anymore
because this grooves almost no clear all
it's doing is kind of getting rid of
very minor scratches and again almost
puts a gloss in the panel now let's
start going in in a slight X pattern
just like that
we're done rinse off your try that paper
kind of rinse it out and we'll be ready
to use the next time you want to grab it
so while this is drying I did this side
exactly the same sent it all the way
down to 3,000 grit starting with our 600
to just kind of break that first little
layer and you can see there's already
the start of a reflection in here so I'm
gonna stop here and I'm gonna finish out
this side and then next up we're gonna
buff this out and that'll be in the next
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really helps me out alright guys take
care stay safe catch you on the buffing
video