 Our work begins down here in the basement. We need to locate and shut off the main shut off coming in from the street. Just jump in there Tom. You can always identify the valve because it's right near the water meter, this bronze thing right there, and generally right near the front foundation. That yellow handle is a ball valve. Take your hand and just turn that clockwise. Yep. Careful now. Don't jerk it. Okay. Good. Right just to 90 degrees. Keep coming a little more. Can't move that thing. You don't want to force it because there's nothing between us and the full city water pressure. Now with that shut off, it's time to get the water out of the plumbing system. We need to get all the water drained out of the hot and the cold piping that's in the building. So we're looking for a low point to be able to drain it down. It's perfect right here Tom. Put your hose on. You have to have a draw off right there. I also like that there's a some pit right next to us. That's pretty convenient. Alright. So now we can drain it. There you go. Alright so there's some of the water but the rest of it isn't going to drain unless we break the vacuum. You know when you put your finger on the end of a straw it holds the water up and you lift it and it drops out. I need you to do that. Go up to the second floor open all the faucets, flush the toilets and then work your way down through the building. Okay. Thank you. Alright Tom. I think we got most of the water out of the piping but I want to be sure. So I've connected a compressor to this air fitting right here and now I want to blow out these lines. You know what I need you to do? Go back upstairs and close off all those faucets you just opened. Thanks Richard. Now I'm going to add air pressure to our piping system. I usually use about 60 or 70 pounds pressure. I don't want to put too much into these old pipes. I have about 70 pounds pressure in our plumbing system. I just open up the hot side first. The guncassine is actually the sediment from the bottom of the water here. I'm going to drain it up to the faucet. I put the dishwasher on Tom. The reason I have you do that is that there's a hot water line that runs between the kitchen sink and the dishwasher and that can often freeze. So with the air lines still charged with air, we're going to run the dishwasher to blow that line up. The wash machines and other appliance we have to pay attention to. You can just run that both hot and cold. The air pressure would push that water right out. We don't want that to freeze. Now we just open that shut off valve briefly to get the last of the water out of that line to the toilet. All right, we've blown out all the water from the hot and the cold piping, but there's still water that sits at every single trap inside this building. And that could freeze, but we still want to have a seal so the sewer gas doesn't come up. So what we're going to do is to add some propylene glycol. That's a non-toxic anti-freeze. Not the ethylene glycol you might use in your automobile. I want you to pour a little bit into every single trap. And for good measure, every toilet takes you get a little bit too. All right, Tom, we've got all the water on the plumbing system. Let me show you what we did on the heating system. This is an oil fired hot water heating boiler. It has a tankless coil right here, and that's filled with water that gets heated by the boiler for the faucets upstairs. When the compressor was on, we sent air right through the coil. That's when we got all that sludge upstairs at the kitchen. So we know there's no more water in that coil, but there's plenty of water in the boiler and in the hot water piping. Do we blow all the water out of that system? Well, no. What I did was I took some of the water out of the heating system through this hose and put it into a bucket. From another bucket, I put anti-freeze. That same propylene glycol we use, the non-toxic stuff, and pumped it back into the heating system. So these pipes won't freeze. You can go to Florida and artwork.