I prefer to use the mesh tape when
taking these seams because it's faster
and it's pretty much foolproof full
truth time but another way to do is use
a paper tape which is quite popular and
perfectly acceptable so in order to
embed the paper tape you have to apply
the joint compound to the scene first a
nice thin even layer
with no dry areas roll the paper tape
out and try to Center it on the team if
you look closely you can see through the
compound and see the slight indication
of where the seam actually is notice I'm
not pushing it right into place I'm just
keeping it pulled tight and I pressing
it in like every two or three feet
hey once the tape is messed up in place
I am an embedded by using my six inch
brow I roll it down run down each edge
cleaning off the excess joint compound
then pushing the tape into the counter
it should be pretty much right on free
in the edge you should be tabled the
assault would be able to reach ceilings
from the ground so I plank attach to
empty joint compound pails works for me
as a homemade scalpel at least rape foot
ceilings I still want to tape as long as
seem as possible in one go I cover the
seams and inside corners that are within
reach before I move the scaffolding to
the next area
this bench works great but it's kind of
slow and cumbersome
I'd much rather use stilts for these
lower ceilings on house size jobs
drywaller stilts are a great
productivity tool and it doesn't take
too long to get the hang of them but
check to see if they're legal in your
state and if your insurance covers their
use okay I'm gonna be starting the
second coat on the ceilings first using
my fourteen inch bevel trowel and the 6
inch taping knife
whenever I start taping I'm gonna put a
little bit of joint compound on the
trowel and then put the second coat on
the screws first taking most of the
joint compound off just leaving a very
thin layer while trying to do here is
fill the indentation caused by the
fastener I'm not trying to build up the
joint compound any place else the reason
I'm doing the fasteners before I do the
actual seams is because when I get
taping this scene if this thing has
already been has already been taped and
then when I go to do the fasteners I
could interfere with this tape joint
when with the with the taping knife so
I'm trying to avoid any potential marks
and my seen playing the joint compound
by picking night all I'm trying to do is
get fairly even when I go to take this
joint compound off or its move it is
when I'm holding the trial at angle if I
hold it straight up like this it's very
a little bit most of them come off so I
let's move it
I hope the trowel not quite an angles
not flat against it's not enough of an
angle to not take all the joint come on
I'm putting quite a bit of pressure on
you can see the trial bending even a
little as I it's not just letting the
problem but I put a quite a bit of
weight into it I'm actually doing this
movie I think very the wall I'd ran that
from tonight six feet and I've only
taken out there's a in the keep in mind
as you're doing this that this is a
second it's not the final goal it's not
gonna be perfect I could spend an hour
on this point and would still never be
perfect so you got to walk away from
this turn why
you can see that there are some slight
wrinkles in the tape here and that's
what we're trying to get covered on the
second coat making sure that those
wrinkles no longer show after the second
quarter dry let's move it out
[Music]
I've already taped the fasteners and
second coated all the inside corners and
now I'm going to apply the second coat
to the seams
I use my 6h taping knife to play a thin
coat to each side of the scene probably
about four inches to each side of the
scene four or five inches wide and uh
get as even as possible about probably a
quarter inch thick or a little less than
a quarter inch thick and keep it
straight and then this is when I use my
fourteen inch bevel trowel to smooth the
joint compound first I'll do one edge at
a time smoothing the edge out all the
pressure on this trowel is on the
outside edge trying to get that as
smooth as possible I took off quite a
bit of joint compound now I'll go over
to the other edge and get that as smooth
as possible keeping all the pressure on
the outside edge my producer was a
little confused about what I meant by a
bevel trowel so I'll show you what I
mean maybe I should call this a curved
trowel because it's cambered or curved
along its length so that the center of
the trowel lays down roughly 1/8 inch
thickness of compound while the edges
feather out the compound to almost no
thickness at all now I'll take the trial
and apply an even pray
of both edges which will smooth the
center of the scene the edges are still
beveled pretty well and the center is
getting smoother there's quite a few air
bubbles so I'll have to go over it two
or three more times before I'm satisfied
with checking to make sure the edges are
still beveled you're not going to get
all the air bubbles out but right now
I've got just very few small ones and
that's that's fine for your second coat
after the second coat of compound is dry
and before I apply the third coat I'd
like to send out any trial marks or
ridges or unfeathered edges that I left
well second coating I call this light
sanding it only takes a few minutes to
do each room this light sanding makes it
easier for me to apply smooth in third
Cove compound I'm careful not to over
sand I don't want to expose the tape or
hollow out a length of seen some tapers
skip this step but I think it saves time
by making for an easier application of
the third coat in an easier final
sanding you don't want to breathe this
stuff so you've got to wear a dust mask
when you're shopping for these read the
labels and make sure the manufacturer
says they're good against non-toxic find
us for the third coat I always use Ready
Mix compound
unlike the powdered setting types this
stuff can be thinned down with water
anytime after I've opened the bucket and
it doesn't dry out as quickly while I'm
using it these are handy characteristics
for the third coat because I travel it
on so thin and then I try almost all of
it right back off again this much
working with quickly hardened and
setting compound which can't be be thin
also the Ready Mix compound is softer
and easier to see and then setting
compound once it dries but you still
have to stir the Ready Mix
to even it out
just as in the previous coats I tape the
fasteners first still applying just a
thin coat one method for applying the
joint compound on the seams for the
final coat is with a 12 inch straight
unibrow I just take the dry compound and
apply it to the scene I'm going wider
than the seen by one or two inches long
as you go wide the idea behind the
finish coat just keeping everything nice
and padded so once I get a thin layer on
there I think the same 12 is trowel and
I remove both of the joint compound but
what I just did there was feather that
engine the bottom is moving now all I
have left to do now is to clean off the
setting I remove also joint bolsters
don't get now the only drinking problem
left is what's filling in any ridges I
had before I know is there is a little
Ridge right here and things like that
I'm looking for as I'm applying
they're cold so I'll just put a little
more joint compound on my trowel and I
know that needs to be filled a little
bit more so I just leave it a little
heavier small stuff is still off there's
not a little Ridge here that I can see
and I just like to go over that leaving
there a little more joint comfortable
and that's that's a good smooth third
coat on the scene it's the same idea
when I'm third coating the inside corner
I'm putting on a layer of joint compound
or this one I'm still using my using my
six new taping night that I'll blend
taper the edge and clean that right on
hope and as I like to do so now my edges
are nice it's been about wider than they
were before
I'm just going to clean the inside up
take it almost all the time compound
house and I do damage the other side a
little bit when I finish both sides just
over it
[Music]
now I add some water to the joint
compound to thin it down a little I like
to have a thinner mix before after
recording the ceiling because I can move
more quickly with a paint roller
but don't thin the compound too much two
or three cups per five gallon pail is
plenty the compound has to be thick
enough to stay in place when applied it
shouldn't drip off the ceiling I just
roll the compound on the seam widening
it out a little applying a thin Fairley
evening layer usually the entire length
of a seam can be done at once now I
remove the compound in the same manner
as before seams on eight-foot ceilings
can usually be trialed in the floor you
can get trials with longer handles if
you need them or use benches or silk to
reach the ceiling once the third coat is
dry I'm ready to start to finish sanding
I always use a good quality dust mask I
start to sanding with a pole sander
using a 120 grit or finer sanding screen
or paper
[Music]
I've got a good 300 watt light shining
tangent to the area I'm sanding so that
any slight Ridge throws a shadow that
I'll easily see these screens are made
of fiberglass and coated with a carbide
grit both side they don't fly the waste
and paper money this is a switch box I'm
standing over this is obviously the
dusties part of the job joint compound
manufacturers seem to think that sanding
is avoidable but I know that a
high-quality finish will require some
sanding wet sanding would produce no
dust at all but it's slow and it doesn't
get me the results I'm looking for if
you hate the electrician don't bother to
clean out these electrical boxes but if
you want to keep him as a friend this is
the time to cut through the tape with a
taping knife and muck out the boxes I'll
vacuum the mount later now I'm ready for
the final touch-up sanding I use hand
sanding tools as I look and feel for any
defects that I couldn't get out with a
pole sander this hand sander uses the
same screens I use with my sanding pole
a dry sanding sponge and a folded piece
of sanding screen that we smooth out
hard to get at areas like the very
inside crease of this corner the pole
sander works great unsealing I've got
excellent leverage and everything's
within the no dry Bowl and job can be
called complete until the mess is
cleaned up I use an old knight to scrape
compound off the floors I vacuum out
electrical boxes heating ducts and clean
up around window openings I think the
room looks just great like this but most
people prefer to paint unfortunately
drywall is rather susceptible to damage
especially while a building is under
construction fortunately though it's
easy to repair this is just a scrape but
the papers been torn I first remove any
loose paper and then I cover the area
with a layer of mesh tape and joint
compound i feather the area out with two
or three coats of compound avoiding a
bump that might show after painting