 So this is all we're going to need to be able to make this pendant here. And I'm going to show you how to make this. So here are the ingredients. Let's pull away back here so you can read it. All right, so we've got 20 or 22 gauge, whatever you want to do. Copper that's 8 millimeter by 6 millimeter. And I rolled this through the rolling mill. You can buy patterned sheet if you don't have a rolling mill. 22 gauge copper silver or brass, by the way, these can be any metal. But I like to copper because it colors so darkly with liver sulfur, brass, and bronze are not great liver sulfur colors or this splotchy looking. But anyway, so for this drip, you're going to use 22 gauge of any metal. And it's 5 millimeter by 3 centimeters. Then we have two jump rings. One is made with 16 gauge, the thicker one. And then we have 20 gauge. And both of these are a gentium silver. Both were also made on a 5.9 to 6 millimeter mandrel with my calipers. I'm never sure if they're exactly right. So I would say that probably a whole number is probably more correct. So this is probably 6. If you're going to use a wooden dowel, the closest size to this would be a quarter of an inch to make your jump rings on. And then finally, this is the information on the tear drop, 6 by 18 millimeter, pack a four sterling 26 gauge. And there's the item number 6, 9, 4, 4, 1, 0. So anyway, we are going to get started on making our pendant. Woo! So I have cut my strips, patterned my material. And I now need to round these edges, file things, make it nice. I also want to flatten this a little bit. I'm not going to hammer on camera. It's just as hideous. So I'm going to flatten both of these. You can use a mallet or this is actually a terrible hammer to flatten with. And they should be doing this with wood over it or something. This just happened to be close apart. So anyway, I'll flatten these. And I'm just going to show you the filing process while I'm here. I would flatten these first, though. And this has got kind of a gunky end on it, but there we go for it. So you want to drag it along toward you because the member files only cut either cut on the push or if you're pulling the metal they cut on that direction. It's the same direction. It's just different way of going about it. So I see how I start like this and then I arc up. So it's... I think I do it a more angled. Ah. Like that. So you want to do that on both sides. You also want to drag it. No fingernails left pretty soon. Drag it along the sides. I would do this first because this will square this little end up. So do your sides first. Then do your roll. And yeah, and just do that. This one, you don't have to use the file. If it's especially if you have a nice clean strip, if you don't, you know, make sure that it's square or dragging along the file. This I would just round the edges by doing the same concept rolling on the sandpaper. This doesn't have to be just rounded. You can actually do it every one. I mean, it could stay sharp. And if you've got any burrs, instead of going like this, that'll make a point on it. Just drag it flat like that where you push down with your finger and drag across the sandpaper. I like to keep a square of paper on my desk just because of these things where it's convenient. So just prep your metal. And while you're at it over here, there's your big jump ring. See if I can do where I have a player with that knocking over the camera. Got my wobbards and my cheapest, and I'm just going to line this jump ring up. Make sure it's really tight fit. So I'm going to squish it kind of together. There's side to side, but they're together. And I mean, I don't know if that makes sense. I'm pushing this one this way, and this one this way. I can't even see that. This one this way, and this one this way. And then I'm pulling them back onto each other. I'm going a little past back over and then lining it up. And it should be lined up along the top here. And when you look down on it, it should be flat on both sides. And while you're over here, you can stick your jump ring into a nice chunky pair of pliers or something that's going to hold it steady. And we'll put your seam so that it's facing up just like that. And then you can just take your file and do it this way. I'm more of a fan of dragging because I think we tend to bend our angle or file less. And you don't have to do it with pliers if you want. You can hold it by hand just trying not to wiggle it too much. And you want to file your flat spot right on the seam of the jump ring. So we'll see that. The little flat spot at the seam. And the reason for doing that is because when we solder this on to the piece, the solder will run into the seam and we won't have to solder this twice. All right, now we're going to make the little U-shaped piece that fits over the top of our rectangular shape out of the thinner strip. And if you need to or want to, you can go ahead and find the center. I can almost see that. What is that? 26, 26, the middle is about there. Then you can use the 3-8-inch or 9.37-millimeter dowel. You can also use these pliers which are about the same size. A little small, maybe they're about the same. Or use the mandrel that you make your jump rings on. You want something that's parallel though so that you don't have to deal with that angled shape like a ring mandrel. So I'm going to push this around the dowel trying to keep that thing centered. So it ends up looking like that. And we're probably going to adjust this as a zillion times. This is got a funky end on it so I'm going to put my applique part over this. So I'm going to put my nicer part up on the top here. And we want it to be like a compression fitting where it's going to be tight up against it. So one of the ways you can do that is squeeze up here at the bend and then come in with your flat nose pliers and kind of pull the leg out to the side a little bit. Check often, this doesn't have to completely touch all the way. But we want it to be able to hold onto it fairly well. And you also want to make sure that look down the face of these to make sure that the legs are parallel with one another. Because if they're not, things will be weird. So I'm going to check this down here to see if it fits. And it seems to fit pretty well. This can go anywhere you can, you know, push it all the way down if you want. It's up to you how you handle it. Also watch your curve up here. Sometimes these get wonky. If they do, you can, you try thinning them over slightly smaller down or use a pair of round nose to kind of work around. If you have to work it a lot, go ahead and nail it in between and then come back to it. You're also looking that these legs are level. And if they aren't, you can pull the metal on one side more than on the other. I hate to ruin a good thing here, but I'll try to show you. You want to work. You're almost pulling this one side down. This holds it and this pulls it over. So it's just a fudging thing. A couple of that still fits. Yeah, so it's, see if it stays on like that, you're in good shape. So the next thing we need to do is we're going to go over to the sawting area and we are going to clean our metal because we've just touched it. Hopefully you've washed your hands, stripped them of oil, I used Dawn Dishwashing Detergent, which is why my fingers all look pucker at all the time. It's so attractive. All right, here we are in soldering land. The only thing that is not here is the little jump ring. We don't want to do anything to that right now. These three items are going to be heat cleaned and these two are just going to get dirty. Those are 14, 12 or 14, I think they're 14 gauge, but you use 12 gauge too. Pieces of copper that I cut out of this copper strip I have and they're going to act as supports to hold the metal up while we're soldering. Which you will see in a minute. First, we're just going to clean the metal. And you don't have to go all the way to a kneeling temperature. Just hot enough to clean off any dirt and grease that may be on everything. Don't forget to clean your jump ring. And then these are here because I want to get them dirty and a good way to get them dirty is to hit them with a torch and to not pickle them afterwards. So three items are going in the pickle and two are staying out. I'm using a hard sheet solder. When you use like French shop shears which are these to create your fringe, they curl up like this, but it's easy to fix. You just bring it over to a piece of metal or wood and whack it with a hammer. And then your fringe is straight for trimming. So now that I've got my solder flattened, I'm going to cut teeny pieces. I keep it in my one finger back here. That keeps everything from flying out into space. So there's my palients. And I forgot to mention one important part. This is our little applique item here. To clean that, I just dragged it along some 400 grit sandpaper or probably more accurately dragged the sandpaper over it. Because some of these stampings have a little lip on them so it's a good idea. So you don't have to remember which side is flat which isn't. Just go ahead and sand the rougher side. And I'm going to be applying, hopefully, flux all over this workout here. Just a whole bunch of charcoal too. Let's try to get that off. I'm totally working with charcoal. I'd love it except for that part. Okay so now hopefully without whacking the camera stand, my country we call it a tripod. We're just going to heat this flux up. See how nice and white it is now? That means the whole thing's covered which is what we want to see. And I'm coming in with my wet brush that I've dripped. Not dripped. What do you call it? Drag most of the fluid out of. So I'm not completely wetting this. I just want to be able to pick up the solder. And I'm putting the solder along the edges of the applique item. Get up there. Dog. Okay so torch is perpendicular to the soldering surface. And the more the bottom of the plane. I'm going to keep it in in one place here. Just going to let everybody flatten out. All right that's way more than a moly boy in a. Okay next what we're going to do is pickle this and then we're going to sand off the high spots. Two reasons one is when you heat solder up part of the not comp and what's what I want. What's the word Nancy find it alloy for the solder includes zinc and zinc is a lower melting metal than silver which is why we use it in solder. But it can burn out and when it does it actually raises the melting temperature of the solder about 50 degrees. So I like to sand off what I call the skin off the solder so that the solder melts at the temperature it's supposed to. By the way this is hard solder that I'm using. I'm going to be using that all the way through the entire process. Another reason to sand it is to level it out a little bit so it sits flatter on the metal. So we're going to pickle this and meet back here go get a cup of coffee. Just a little aside here. This is why you don't dip your brush in your bottle of flux. It's a little charcoal collection I have here what I do is I this is end of day. What I do is I take it off from the sides and try and never dig the brush down in the bottom because I'm too lazy and don't want to throw out. Teasing enough flux although this is looking pretty bad. But that's why you don't want to dump your brush in your bottle or your jar if you're using paste flux. And one more thing on paste flux just because it's in the jar doesn't mean it's necessarily ready to use. Sometimes the paste flux needs to be mixed with water so it's semi liquid. If it's a big glob you need to dilute it so put it in a little bowl like this or something. You know use a dropper or a spray bottle to add water slowly so you don't slud it. So now we're going to go over and we're going to sand. I'm just going to go sand this off somewhat. I don't want to take it all off. I just want to take enough off so that skin's removed and it's a little flatter. And I will meet you back here because I have a video on sanding somewhere on the inner web. Alrighty I used 320 sandpaper and sanded this down here. And now I'm going to flux the area where I'm putting this member I had to kind of void in my pattern. So I'm going to put the applique down there. I'm also going to flux back the applique. And I'm going to take it, hopefully not touch it with my hands too much. Hold it by the ends and now I need to line it up. This closely is like in the reality that didn't help. I'm going to cover that then a little more. It's too far. I'm not going to get email about this. Alright so have a solder pick handy just in case you may also want to hold down your applique a little bit to help it adhere. The flux will act as a glue. So sometimes it's good to just push it down and hold it so it has a nice tight fit. This is your last chance for movement. Make sure it's still in the right position. Turn this up a little bit. And then I'm going to just fly heat. Now we're going to be watching for flow from the seams. Once I've seen this over line there I'm flicking out. I'm seeing. I think we got it. Pretty quick. I was just basically kept it on the area that I'm trying to solder. So now what I'm going to do is pickle this and then I'm going to make sure that I can see silver line all the way around the perimeter of my applique item. Don't forget to quench your block between soldering operations. It keeps it from catching on fire and turning into a charcoal ember. And it also prolongs the life of your block because it doesn't burn the block and turn it into ash. Okay what the heck am I doing now? Oh well that's in the pickle. Pull out your little jump ring. Say hello little jump ring. We're going to melt this baby. Kind of my favorite sports melting metal. I'll just leave it out from the solder pile. 90 degree angle. Torch up, upish in the air. And this is too fluffy because she with this air is settling. So I kind of go down a little and we just want to see this turn into a lovely ball. Well I should turn the torch up but it's doing it. Okay. There we have a little shiny ball. You want to see that glistening shining red stuff there. Don't pick it up until it is no longer red. You definitely don't put it in your pocket. So this is now ready. It's got a flat back because it was sitting on a flat piece of charcoal. So I'm going to quench this. It doesn't need to be pickled because it's our gentium. Quench my block. Probably ready to take the other piece out of the pickle. And we are moving on guys. Here we are at the pickle and you see this pinky salmon color copper colored stuff on here. You see your brass brush? Really soft brass brush by the way. Don't use the kind that are real hard because you get scratched. Your metal. So I want to check my seam along this edge. There are no voids. It's gorgeous. And the other exciting thing is that there's no solder running into my pattern. That's why we put the solder at the edge and we don't use tons of it. So I'm going to rinse this and dry it. As you can see I have my little our hint dim ball sitting up here. So now we are going to solder that. I'm going to use fire scoff for this. Fire scoff is a... What do you call it? It's a preventative for fire scale. Fire stains from forming. It keeps it from forming by reducing the amount of oxidation. And the other thing it does is it acts as a flux. So it kills two birds with one stone. Although it's pricey. It's the only drawback. So I'm going to take a little square here. I'm going to put it on here. Right about where I want my ball to be. Now I'm going to just dip this in my flux. My flux bowl. And then... Unfortunately not carefully enough. Putting it right on top of that. Square a solder. I'm going to ensure that you're all lined up. Okay. Turn it to your jet. Pop it a little bit. And it's over here to work. You want to... You can't just roll. You want to... You can pop it this. You can use a solder pick for tweezers. Okay. I've got to get in here. And sideways. See what's going on. If you see the solder flowing on your apache piece, it's probably flown on your ball there. I'm going to check that so that I don't cause a big problem here. Grab it this. Nope. It's staying on. So it flowed. I just can't see it because the camera's in my way. Usually I've got optimizers on and I'm looking over in this direction. Not optimizers magnifiers. So, pickle time. Then we're going to put our strap over the top. Or our decorative element as I like to call it. Okay. This is where all the fun dancing begins. Sorry, juggling act. So there's our ball and our apache. So cool. I just tell you. So what I'm going to do is the ball is holding up that end. So I can probably just do these. See if it's too high or not. I'm going to put this on. It's going to go. It's a little long. Now it's too high. So that this is now it's lifting it up. I'm going to push everybody down. And that should be about center there. And then you don't have to mess around trying to guess. Fire scoffing. We don't need you over there. So once again, heat up so your solder doesn't bubble off. It should have enough flux on it. Okay. Sorry. This is like I have a camera in my armpit. It's not easy. Plus I can't see what I'm doing because I am. Definitely have vision issues. That 300 years old. Okay. Now the deal here is we want a small one. It's deal number one. Deal number two is we want it on both walls. That looks kind of both wally. This one is bridging both walls. You could lay it on one wall and have it on the other wall. And then you could lay it on the side. Kind of like bridging. So that's ready to roll. So now we're going to solder this on. The solder solder solder. Okay. I got it piece of copper with a other one under there. So this is going to need it to be needed first. I'm trying to focus on the copper because it's so riskin' to see that a lot quicker. But because it's in between I think both of them so it's a... Oh, that one. You draw solder volume up on the one side. That means I have plenty of... I'm going to fix that one side and I'll pick it soldered. Just not to go over everything. Okay, I'm going to check the mess. Let's see if anything soldered on because I can't see. I'm not happy with that. So it's going to be glob. Oh, it means I have to clean up. And it's also not soldered and it's also not very tight. Probably shouldn't have held it with my tweezers. Well, amazingly, this side that looks like it shouldn't be, it's slightly soldered. I am low to put more solder on here because I do not want more clean up. So I'm going to try heating this up and taking the solder and pushing it over to the seam over there. Now, you don't want to use cross-lacks in this instance because the metal when it gets hot gets fragile and it could literally crush this piece. So we don't want to do that. So I am going to see if I can put this trick off. If not, I'll have to give it an add more solder to it. I'm getting put to it. Liquid. There we go. Let's not go over there. I'm going to do a little bit more. Come on, my heat's clean up. All right, that is flown. But, dude, there's a big lump there. Don't like cleaning the lumps. There we go. So I pushed that lump down and it flowed into the seam. So now I don't have to take that lump out. I just have this giant glob over here that I need to remove. That's not solder. That's just where the flux was. This right here needs to go. So I will take my Brett escapement file, which is a smaller thinner than a needle file and smaller than a needle file. And I will use that to clean that up and some sandpaper that I make into a point and sand with. Before that, though, I am going to go ahead and put this in the pickle and then we're going to solder the jump ring on and then we're almost done. This is if it did. All right, here's my wacky setup. This is a pair of titanium tweezers that I've tied with some binding wire and the jump ring is held in them. And then I have two little pieces of that copper. I think it was working gauge copper that it's resting on to keep it level. And then the pendant is in between two kiln stilts. I've already fluxed it and put the solder on while you weren't looking. Now for the excitement. We've got a heat sink over here. And this is a bigger piece. So most of the heat is going to go on the pendant part. But it's not like I'm soldering a jump ring alone. If I was doing a jump ring alone, I probably wouldn't even heat it very much because it all, if at all, because it would be so much smaller than the rest of the piece. But because of the tweezers, it's not as innocent as it looks. Alright, some red stuff. Alright, there we go. There we go. Then you lock that float well and life is good because it's time for the three seas. Okay, here's our little pendant. Still haven't cleaned that yet. I'm going to now. Just thought it'd show you what it looked like. Clean up and live rare sulfur. Now. Okay, here we are. We're done. It's been live rare sulfured. By the way, if you have a lot of flex in here because this is copper and it's thin and it got a need. Weagle it. And then you can put it on a block, hang this part off so you don't, this part off so you don't crush it. You should be able to tap it in there. Turn it over and do this side. So it gets back to level again. Just maybe make it a little more work hard in so it's not so soft. Ciao. Hope you had fun and learned something. Bye.