 Make a dress, a second series. I'm featuring my free pinnacle pattern again, but this time I'm showing how to add a lining. This is part 8, the final episode. Finish the lining and complete the hem. Moving on to joining the shoulders. This garment is now inside out, and we are going to machine stitch these shoulder seams. Now you can see where we stop the stitching well short of the shoulder seam. It gives us a little room to maneuver. So looking at this more closely, we can fold back the lining seam allowances to enable us to stitch the garment shoulder seam. So matching our shoulder points. Pin the seam carefully. We can now machine the shoulder seam without fear of catching the lining. Be as accurate as you can, stitching a 5-8-seven inch seam. Next, we press the shoulder seam open, keeping the lining out of the way. The sleeve board again is good for this. Trim the seam allowances to remove bulk. Press the seam allowance back into position. The next job is to neatly fold in the lining seam allowance. First, secure the seam allowance in place with a few tacking stitches. Do the other side the same. I'm using my arms as a nice finish. I'm making sure the lining seam lines up with the shoulder seam of the dress. Pin the seam allowance in place. The lining seam is now done. We need to do now is delicately slip stitch the lining in place along here and complete the lining seam here. Looking good. A little bit of hand stitching can be the making of a garment. There are several ways to do this by machine, but this method will always lead to success. To join the seam, just take small stitches from each side and pull up gently. Trim away any threads and give the seam a press. Perfect. So, two nicely finished shoulder seams, both the same width. I shall be finishing the back by slip stitching the lining in place. I've taken my basting stitches out. I'm going to understitch the seam allowance to the lining. This will stop the lining from crooping up and showing on the right side. So, just stitch as far as you can at the places that you can get at. We are close to finishing. I have the machine for the understitching. I have all the lining on the right. I'm stitching in the seam allowance and keeping the two sides spread apart. I don't want any folds in the lining. Stitch as far as you can. So, that is how it looks from the inside. The lining will now stay put. So, all the understitching is done. The next job is to pin the lining in place along the zipper tape and slip stitch in place. We want to make sure the two sides of the zipper are equal. So, pin matching the waistline seams and slip stitch in place. These stitches can be quite well spaced to speed things up. So, that is the pin-of-for-dress with the lining. Sometimes I take a few tacking stitches here, hidden in the seam to ensure that the lining stays put. The very last job is the hem. The hem needs trimming. You can see just how much this fabric is prone to fraying. I'll overlock this edge or a zigzag will do just as well. Also, we want to trim the lining. Before you do this, you will want to try your dress on to decide on length. You may well want to make it shorter. Large tummies or rears can affect how the dress hangs. So, you want to check that the skirt hangs straight by measuring from the floor up. So, I have overlocked my hem. I want to reduce the bulk in the fold of the hem. This is going to be a two-inch hem. I'm going to clip a little V where the fold comes. This makes quite a difference if your fabric is bulky. At the back vent, I'm clipping the double seam allowance at the fold. At the back vent, I'm clipping the double seam allowance at the fold. I'll press this to the left and this to the right. And also clip at the top of the hem line. Then, when the pleat is pressed flat, the seam allowance above the hem will lie flat. So, we are going to pin the hem all round ready for blind herming. I start with the seams and centres and fill in in between. And for the lining, I'm going to fold up a half an inch with the help of my iron. Then, turn up and pin a one and a half inch hem and machine. I'm using a blind heming foot. Check your machine instructions for the blind heming stitch. All zigzag machines will have one. You can easily stitch your hem like this by hand though. So, using the iron to turn up a half inch hem. Then, I'm measuring and pinning up one and a half inches ready for machining. Press the hem. Press the back pleat from the right side. Then, a final press. This dress is finished and looking very nice. Choose a nice belt or make a belt from the fabric you have left over. I should leave that for another lesson. Pictures of this dress coming to my website soon. This pattern is free. A download from my website. It is available in small, medium and large. All you have to do is register. I originally made this free pattern in blue denim. Watch my first Make Address Series and learn about top stitching, patch pockets and hand embroidery as a bonus.