hello and welcome to Professor
pincushion in this tutorial I'm going to
show you the steps it takes in order to
line a bodice your example may be a
little bit different than mine but I'm
going to show you with two different
bodice a--'s so hopefully it'll help you
out in your own assembly let's go ahead
and get started
my first bodice example is going to be
this bodice that has a v-neck line and
then also it has no sleeves whenever
you're doing aligning for a bodice
whatever you do to the main fabric
you're going to do the same thing to the
bodice this is before you actually put
them together so for this one there's a
seam down the middle and then I have a
seam at the shoulder seams and that's it
now the lining is going to come in and I
need to make sure that not only did I
cut out the same pieces but I also sewed
the same part of it so this is going to
be my main fabric and here's my lining
the first thing I'm going to do is I'm
going to place the pieces so they're
right side to right side and you're
going to line it up so everything
matches and then just pin around the
perimeter once everything's pin I'm
going to talk about what you're going to
sew my bodice is unfolded just so we
know what we're looking at front bodice
back bodice this is the center back seam
neckline bottom of the bodice bottom of
the bodice and then we have armhole side
seam over here your pattern directions
are going to tell you where exactly on
the perimeter
you need to stitch you're never sewing
completely around the whole thing
because there always needs to be an
opening so we can flip it right side out
after we sew it the lining which is
already pinned to my main fabric serves
two purposes not only does it make the
inside look nicer but it's also being
used to finish edges so you need to kind
of think of it logically like what are
you trying to finish I have this
neckline there's no collar or anything
so I need to finish the neckline so I'm
going to be stitching around here the
lining to my main fabric I'm also going
to have no sleeves in this pattern so
therefore I'm using my lining
to finish the armhole and I'm going to
be sewing this whole curved edge right
here this bodice has a skirt that's
going to be sewn to the bottom so the
skirt is actually helping to finish the
edge of the bottom of the bodice so down
here at the bottom this side and the
bottom of the bodice on the side I don't
need to sew because it's going to be
sewn later in therefore it's going to be
finished our center back seam I know for
this particular pattern there's going to
be a zipper that zipper is also going to
help finish this edge so therefore I
don't need to sew this either so I can
go ahead and remove pins from areas that
I know I don't need to sew just so I
don't get confused so to clarify I need
to finish the neckline finish the
armhole so I'm going to be sewing around
the neckline curve and then also both my
arm hole curves let's look at another
example now this is more of a
traditional looking bodice it's actually
a doll's bodice that's why it's so small
so this is my main fabric and again
everything I did up into this point for
this I need to do the same thing for my
lining so I have the shoulder seam sewn
I have the side seam sewn so this is the
front of the bodice here's the back of
the bodice with the center back seam
down the middle and then we have arm
holes on the side so this is right side
out this is right side to right side and
I'm going to lay them on top of each
other so everything matches so again I'm
going to think about what do I need to
finish now just to go over what I don't
need to sew is the bottom of the bodice
again is going to be sewn to a skirt so
I don't need to sew around the perimeter
of the bottom of the bodice this bodice
is also going to have sleeves so the
sleeves are going to fit in the arm
holes and they're going to finish the
raw edges so I don't need to sew my
lining here at the sleeves not yet
anyways so sleeves are out looking at
the back I'm going to have another
fastener so I don't need to finish the
center back seam but I am going to have
it attached again to the neckline
pull this out so we can look at our net
curve so I would pin my aligning to this
net curve area this again is the center
back center back I'm not sewing here so
it's just going to be this area here and
then that's going to attach my lining to
the bodice we're finishing our raw edges
so you're going to want to do this in a
regular straight stitch and whatever
your seam allowance is for your pattern
you're going to do the same thing unless
it states something different in your
directions so if your pattern says 5/8
of an inch you're going to do 5/8 of an
inch for this as well just be careful
going around curves if you have them
because we want to make sure if we're
doing something like a neckline it ends
up as perfect as possible after the
seams are sewn the most important step
then is to make sure you trim your seam
allowance and clip notches this seam
allowance over here for my armhole has
already been trimmed so you're leaving
about a quarter of an inch away from the
stitches left you can see this one has
not been trimmed it's still the 5/8 and
the reason is because after we flip this
right-side out all the seam allowance is
going to be sandwiched in between the
lining and the main fabric and
especially for curved areas it could get
all bunched up and look pinched or
wrinkled because you have your seam
allowance in the way so we want to cut
away the excess so I'm going to trim
this again leaving about a quarter of an
inch and then for any curved areas
you're going to cut little inverted
notches and you can see them here they
just look like little triangles and
you're being sure that you don't
actually cut into your stitches because
we want to make sure that we don't
actually cut a hole and that's what
happens if you cut into your seam
allowance so don't cut into the seam
line I have them about maybe an inch
apart and you only need to really do
them for the curved areas any areas
where you have an angle like this you
can go ahead and cut off the corner for
an area like this which is a v-neck I
actually try to cut away most of this
seam allowance and cut almost to the
point of where my stitches are so
that'll be a nice finished point
once I flip it right side out and I
won't have all this fabric bunched up
into this area so here is my dull bodice
and after you trim it you can go ahead
and flip everything so the right side of
the fabric is on the outside and now the
wrong side of the fabric are together on
the inside of your bodice usually
pattern directions will ask next for
under stitching and or top stitching
we're going to talk about under
stitching first what under stitching
does is it's a stitch that helps keep
our lining on the inside of our bodice
so it doesn't just keep rolling out and
we see the lining because the lining is
supposed to stay on the inside to do an
under stitch we're looking at the right
side of the bodice so main fabric lining
you're going to take your seam allowance
and the seam allowance is going to stay
closed and it's going to go towards the
lining so here's going towards my main
fabric I want it to go towards the
lining so it's all going to be under
there and I can actually fill it with my
finger you're going to take it to your
machine and you're going to stitch as
close to the seam line as possible and
we're stitching that seam allowance now
to the lining so this is going to help
us be able to fold the lining much
easier so it stays on the inside and we
get more of a crisper edge to the
outside of the bodice the under stitch
is done with a regular straight stitch
and you can see I'm sewing on the side
of my lining but I'm staying as close to
that seam line as I can and I'm always
checking to make sure that my seam
allowance is underneath my lining the
problem with the under stitch is
sometimes it can be tricky to sew the
whole length in one stitch because areas
are sewn together so it's just really
hard and your fabric starts bunching up
so you really just go as far as you can
and then just start at the opposite end
and move towards your original stitch
and if you can't do the whole thing then
that's fine the stitch ends up on the
inside of the bodice anyways
so no one's really going to see it and
you just do the best that you can
if we flip this over you can see the
under stitch right here so that is on
the inside of the garment now your
powder may not necessarily ask for an
under stitch but it is fairly common
which is why I went over it next we're
going to be talking about a top stitch
so the top stitch is going to go through
both layers so the top and the bottom
and you're just going to stitch right
along the edge and that's going to be a
finishing stitch the top stitch is also
a regular straight stitch and you can
see I'm sewing really close to that edge
and this is going to give your garment a
finished look any areas that have not
been sewn that are still separate such
as the center back the bottom of the
bodice or armholes you can go ahead and
do a basting stitch the basting stitch
is just a temporary stitch so you don't
have to do any back stitching and it's
going to be the longest stitch on your
machine the sides that have been basted
will allow you to be able to treat these
raw edges as one single piece instead of
two separate pieces so to make it easier
for the rest of your assembly new
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