 We are Jacob and Anna White. We are Carpenders from Alaska. We've helped millions of people build their own furniture through our plans and website. But now we are going beyond that. We are going to show you how to build yourself a house tiny style. In this video series, we'll show you step by step how to go from a trailer to a beautiful finished home. Make sure you subscribe and follow along. Hey guys, it's Anna and Jacob again. Thanks so much for watching. Jacob's trailer video last week. We're back home from our vacation. We had a great time. But we're also glad to be home and back to doing some videos. We just want to take a quick second to answer one of your questions on how we attach the walls to the actual trailer. So I'll let him take that because he actually did it. Very simple to do. What we did is actually we drilled down through the bottom plate of the wall into the subframe of the trailer. And added a bolt completely through there. I think the bolt might have been like eight inches or somewhere in there. But it was a pretty substantial half inch galvanized bolt. So then going to rust out. Then we just go ahead and tighten it down. I think we did it about every four to six feet on this trailer where we had a chance to do it. And that way it's just tied completely into the trailer. So we've been promising you a video on roofing and today we're going to deliver. Ready? After we got all the plywood up on the roof, it's time to add dice and water shield. It's very easy to do. You roll it out. You can cut them on the ground. Go up top on the roof and pull out the paper underneath it. Roll it out. All it is is creating a membrane. It's like a second layer of roofing on your roof. So in case you ever do get a leak, water goes down through there. It hits the ice and water building and out the bottom. Now, as you can see in our video, we did the ice and water shield before the Eve flashing, which is a big no-no, but on this tiny house, I kind of cheated. Because I was like, well, I'll do the ice and water shield. But you tuck the Eve flashing underneath the ice and water shield. And that way, when the water, if it ever does get underneath there, it goes down the ice and water shield, down your Eve flashing and out, which is this piece. So the ice and water shield goes around the roof. The ice and water shield is just one giant sticker, thick membrane. And on a hot day, it will bond right to the plywood. You'll never get it out. When you're putting up your ice and water shield, you want to always consider how water is going to drain. If you're running the ice and water shield horizontally, you want to start at the bottom and then the lap as you go up. If you're running it vertically, you want to lap as you go this way. Super easy. Once that ice and water shield up, it's time to start putting up the actual roofing and we'll start with the Eve flashing. So when you're installing a Eve flashing, which is this piece, this piece goes on your Eve. And the ice and water shield will go over this top. And so the water will come down this way. We're ice and water shield and down the Eve and then out your building. So basically, this gets put on. You can screw it on or you can nail it on with roofing screws. We had a coil nail there, which works great. But basically, you want to run this all the way down your Eve. One of the tricks that we do is we have all of our roofing just ordered from a metal shop that's local to us. So everything is cut to size. And you can see that there's an angle here that's not 90. I believe this is the 212. So we have the 212 pitch on this and then where there's not the donor, we have a 712 pitch cut into Eve flashing. Another thing that I really like that he does with Eve's is he'll round the corners around. So it just gives a more finished look and it adds a little bit of protection to your corners. After all the Eve flashing is up, it's time to start putting the roofing on. What we like to do is have our roofing cut to size so that we don't have to skip that step and it doesn't cost us anymore. The steel company will always do that. Does it for us? And so what we do is we first start by squaring out the roof. So I like to start out and I like to measure, use a 3, 4, 5 rule. And so what you're trying to do is find a perfect 90 for starting your 10. So from the Eve measure over 3 feet and up your gable measure over 4 feet. And wherever these two, if you go 3 here, wherever it meets at 4 foot here, that is where this should be 5. This completes and makes a perfect 90 degree angle. So then you can start your snap a line from here to the top and it may be inside, might be outside. But you want to start your first sheet square. What this does is if you start square, you're going to want a 1 inch reveal past your Eve that is standard for putting roofing on. So you're going to want to have your sheet slide down an inch past the Eve. And then if you start at a 90, you will end up down here. All you have to do is go up and down with your sheet to match your 1 inch. If you start on square, you're going to be having to cheat back and forth on your sheets as you go across. So you always want to do the 3, 4, 5 rule. So let's say that your roof is really out of square. Probably it won't be, but if it is, then you wind up and you realize that your out of square and your first sheet comes in like this. And so your roof is up here and might be like an inch up here. And then it goes to nothing here. It's tight to the gable. Well, this is still okay because you have your gable flashing, which will come over the top and it will tie in and you'll still have a complete seal. So keep in mind that the gable flashing will cover any discrepancies in this being a 90. And then also this is where you want to hide the unbearing on square in here. So you can cover with your gable down here on the Eve if you don't have to worry about it because this is the 90 that you're looking for. This is the square part up and down. Once you got your roof all squared up and you're ready to do the sheeting, one thing that I like to do is put all my sheets together and stack them up and then pre-drill them because it's way easier to put the screws in and up top in a pre-drilled hole than it is to actually put them in as you go. The trick he does there if he stacks all the roofing panels up and pre-drills them at once is you could, these are exposed screws. So the screws all look nice and tidy in in the same length because they're pre-drilled exactly the same spot. So not only does it save time, but it looks a lot better. Yeah. So once you're pre-drilled, put your first sheet up and just go to town and put in the sheets up. And a quick tip is cut a block that's one inch and you can match your overhang on your Eve. The sheets go put on really fast. You'll want to use roughing screws here because they have a gasket that seals up the hole that you pre-drilled in the tin and also their color matched to the roof so they'll blend. So once you get the main roofing on, it's time to put the gable flashing on. And the gable is where your rough is out of peak and you're going to want to trim out that edge on the gable. So here's a piece of small gable obviously this comes in 10 foot sticks or 12 foot sticks whatever. But this is the side that goes down the gable. This is the side that's on the roof. So you're going to want to put this on and attach it with roughing screws over here. And then some people attach it with roughing screws on here. Not necessary sometimes but this isn't going down the road you probably want to do it. At the end of the roof sometimes you're short and you have to cut your ridge off. This is a ridge. And sometimes you have to cut it off and so you have just a flat valley in here. And this piece I had to cut off of the excess that I used and added a ridge. And the reason I did that is because you still need this height which is 3 quarters of an inch off of the tin. Because in the end you have a piece of gable flashing. Now this is just an example. But this gable flashing will come over and it has to sit on this here for height. And so if you add a rib this is a great way to make this transition work. Because if you didn't it would just sit at an angle and it wouldn't sit right. It would sit kind of funny looking. So you want to add a rib if you have to. Because on a normal gable let's go to the other side which would be the start which is what you would have. It already has one. So it's a done deal. So that's how you start and you put your gable on. So if you have a rough like we do where you have roughs that intersect with walls you'll need what's called either a side wall or a head wall. A side wall is when the roof is next to another wall like this. And then a head wall is when the roof comes down. And that is very similar to the gable and how it's installed. You just put it on top of your main roofing and you'll screw it to either you'll screw it to the wall. Yeah it's just a flashing. It goes on to the side wall. So it goes underneath your siding. So if rainwater you get rain coming down or come down your siding hit the side wall flashing and then hit the metal roofing and out the building. So you can't get any water in between that space. One thing that's different about head wall then side wall is you'll need to use a gasket that matches the ribs on the roofing to prevent water from going up those ribs. You'll have that problem on a side wall because it's like a gable flashing where the ribs are matched with the trippies. So here's the gasket. This is used for head wall flashing and also for your top rich gap. So how it basically works is you'll put it like this. Yeah and then just to prevent that from going up here. So this is your head wall so it'll come there. And then when you screw it down here this is all sealed up so nothing can get back up but underneath the tin and water can't get in there. So the final step in doing this roofing is adding the ridge cap. Yeah the ridge cap is pretty straightforward. It's just a matter of attaching it to both sides of the metal roofing that go to the peak. So you're going to want to snap a line all the way down to keep it straight so you're not walking down the ridge. And you also want to make sure that your foam's in there because your foam is your closure strip for wind driven rain and stuff like that from getting inside the top of the ridge. So where we have the two different roofs meet where we go from a two 12 to a 712 the ridge cap is actually pretty forgiving and will flex. So we were able to use the same ridge cap all the way down. Your ridge cap should overhang the end of your gable probably 3 quarters to an inch. Being a tiny house this is a very small project but two days and we had this thing done. It looks really good too. He did a great job and we're just happy to have one more project checked off on this list. Thanks for watching this week and hopefully you get some useful information if you're building a tiny house or just in general building a house yourself. Thanks for watching we'll see you next week.