 Wood is a material that inspires time and again. Today we're confronting a special challenge. We combine wood with the most original of all elements. Water. Our carpenter heli is building a heatable hot tub, also known as hot pod or hot tube. He will show you every step of this project in this filter, do it yourself video. Join us in its development and together with us, build this highlight of fun, joy, and above all, relaxation. We use the Felter combination machine CF-741SP, the all-rounder for modern woodworking for this project. The perfect combination of five standalone machines with only 2.5 square metres of space required. Planing, molding, cutting, and drilling. The top quality workshop in one machine. As always, we provide you with a construction plan, along with the necessary software for download. The Siberian Latch, a very hard and extremely weather resistant wood due to its high-rhythm content, serves as starting material for our hot tub, perfect for our project. When working with 4 metre long boards, a height adjustable work table, such as the Felter FAT 300, is a real relief. We cut the boards to measure. Next is the trimming. We set up our machines quickly and easily for this. The cross-cut fence can be disassembled in no time. Assemble the edging shoe and all done. The table extension at the end of the table is very helpful. We set up our machines quickly and easily for this. The cross-cut fence can be disassembled in no time. Assemble the edging shoe and all done. The table extension at the end of the table is very helpful in edging. And one more tip. The saw blade of the silent power-ripsaw blade, our ideal for longitudinal sections. With the smooth running X-Roll format sliding table and its linear guiding system, trimming the boards is a walk in the park. The thing you see here, from the paper and月, is that the table enclosure is, for outskirts, open up mats and survey, hook area in the small one above. Next task is surface planning. We only need to set the parallel cutting fence on the planer table and open the cutter block protection. The traditional planning of the floorboards guarantees absolutely perfect results. It can become strenuous over time with long and heavy workpieces. We therefore opt for the more comfortable version with feed. This makes the planning much easier for us. We then plane the joint with a manual feed. Once again the table extensions prove to be of great help. Master carpenter Helle uses the patented silent power spiral cutter block from Felder, which guarantees uniquely perfect planning results. The first thickness planning we adjust the thickness of table to a median size of the boards. Feed speed can be set between 6 and 12 meters per minute. The floorboards must now be provided with a tongue and groove profile. And we use the Felder Universal Profile cutter for 40 and 50 mm cutters. The top of the molder should just scratch the piece of wood for this purpose. We set this position as a zero value and adjust the milling height to the centre of the workpiece. The feed once again guarantees safe, convenient and fast working. The workpiece is pressed perfectly against the machine table and the spindle mold defence by the three spring loaded rubber rollers. The door supports the repeatability. Step one is completed. The groove is moulded on all boards. Step two is the moulding of the tongue. Only the cutting blades on the Universal Profile cutter head are replaced for this purpose. All settings on the molder can remain unchanged. The test shows it fits perfectly. The floorboards are now almost finished. We proceed with the cutting of the staves. We start with the cutting to basic size again. The height adjustable Felder FAT 300 working table in turn provides optimal support when cutting the four metre long boards. Machine equipment trolleying, stacking trolle or stable workspace, this height adjustable Felder FAT 300 work table is versatile. Always offers maximum stability and easy mobility. We play in the 90 degree joint on the boards right after truing this time. Our professional tip with the CF-741 similar boards can be planned to thickness even at the same time. In this way we achieve 100% time savings and speed up this task enormously. The maximum depth of cut to chip thickness during thickness planning is 4mm. In the first run we choose a mean between the thickest and thinnest board again. This way we can leave the thicknessing height unchanged. With 6 metres of feed per minute we achieve the best possible planning result. You proceed with cutting our staves. For this purpose we use a silent power steep tooth saw blade, perfect choice for cross cuts. Swing away cross cut fence stop guarantees additional operating comfort and highest precision. Essential for the additional processing steps. In order to bring our staves into the right shape, the model is now ready to be finished. In order to bring our staves into the right shape, the molding of the groove and the corresponding curve now follows. We start with the rounding profile and align it to the middle of the stave in height. It's particularly important in this step that the profile is molded absolutely evenly. Our feed is extremely helpful again here. A sampled piece may be used for the fine adjustment of the groove. With the help of a caliper, master carpenter helle, we can make a hole in the middle of the stave. We can make a hole in the middle of the stave. We can make a hole in the middle of the stave. We can make a hole in the middle of the stave. Either the staves can be turned in far enough to achieve the exact radius of the hot tub. To proceed, we convert our CF-741 to a slotting saw. In the power drive control, the grooving tool is already stored. We only have to conveniently adjust the height by means of a digital indicator. With the connection of the staves with the barrel bottom, we mold its thickness into the staves. By means of the side cutter of the molder, we adjust the molder precisely to the base dimensions. We mold the groove in two steps and use the cutting and parallel cutting fence for this. We can perform all cuts with the same setting this way. The test shows it fits perfectly. The fit should not be too loose but also not too tight. We can now get the axial dimension of the fully molded stave. Together with the number of staves, it determines the diameter of the hot tub. When assembling the floorboards, we make sure to use the broadest possible boards at the edge. Tung and groove fit perfectly, just as we expected. We now measure the center point. Then use a circular board to mark the under diameter, as well as inward diameters offset by 10 and 20mm respectively. With the tensioning belt, we fix the floorboards for the installation of the underfloorboards. These are installed at the same distance and the innermost diameter is marked up to that. We use our circular board again for this. We use a filter FB510 bandsaw with a 20mm blade, an X-Life ceramic bandsaw blade guide and a laser cutting display for the cutting. We use about 4cm wide boards that we have already cut to the right length for the underbeams. Using a multi-function marking gauge, we mark a center line, pre-drill the holes and screw the boards together. Our Master Carpenter Heli recommends robust stainless steel screws for this use. When screwing the underbeams to the base plate, we ensure that there is one screw arranged in crosswise manner for each floorboard. We can then already cut out the curve of the base plate. For this, we use our hide adjustable filter work table and our bandsaw again. We quickly remove protrusions with a planer. Now we can install the staves. We already assemble the whole construction into finished position so that we don't have to turn the heavy hot tub over later. For this, we transfer the 10mm lines to the upper surface using our multi-function marking gauge. This line then serves as a depth marking for the staves. Our hot tub is slowly starting to take shape now. When installing the last stave, we turn the second to last one slightly outwards. Thus the whole construction then slips into its final form. For the installation of the hoops, we pre-tension the staves with two tensioning straps. Check the depth on our 10mm line and readjust the staves as needed. Our hot tub is almost completed now. The only thing missing now is installing the accessories. The most important element is the heater. We opted for an aluminium model. We position the heater so that the mounting holes are as centrally as possible in the staves. It's important to tightly screw the heater to the tub. We recommend M8 stainless steel lock screws. As a final step, the interior construction follows. We cut the material to size, plane the boards, and mould the profile with a joining cutter head. The joining function of the moulder eliminates the need for prior joining work. The new new new new new new new new new new new new new new new new new new new new new new new new new new new new new this new new new new new new new new new new new new new new new v new new For the construction of the bench, we determine the center point by way of three measurements. Then we draw a parallel to the heat protection. Use an angle measurement tool with a clock here. You now mark out the corners from the center line and then mark the bench bullets. Having measured the bench boards, we can adjust all the measured dimensions directly on the crosscut fence, thanks to the precision miter guide on our CF-741. Link the compensation and takes care of the rest. And our hot tub is already completed. Thanks for watching.